I use Osmo Polyx Oil and Osmo Top Oil on my cherrywood placemats. They are both excellent for a non-cutting surface, Very hard and durable. For my cherrywood and black walnut cheese boards I use cold pressed hemp seed oil and my own mixture of hempseed oil and natural beeswax. I purchase my hemp seed oil from Hempola in Barrie, Ontario, Canada. Hemp seed oil is organic and totally food safe. I don't think either Osmo product was designed for a cutting surface. Hemp seed oil is much better to work with and healthier and more organic and food safe than any Osmo product.You can see some of my work at my website- www.liveedgedwoodcraft.ca

daisychain - The lumber place had samples of both stained and natural flooring - what did you read that made it sound like you couldn't stain? So here's the sum total of what I've been told or know from experience - the lumber place that recommends penetrating oil says it is a renewable finish that will not require reworking the entire existing finish if one area is taking more wear and needs a refresh - you can just blend the areas as a homeowner, no professional needed. That's a huge plus in my book. It's a subtle finish, the wood doesn't look coated and that appeals to me because I don't want a shiny floor. The floor finishers that prefer to use urethane products say the fact that oil penetrates and doesn't sit on top is the indicator that it's not really protecting the floor. Well, yeah, I guess I can sort of see that but the second anything breaches that coating (a dropped knife in the kitchen, dogs nails, etc) you can do a spot repair but it will never really blend in - been there done that. I've had petroleum based urethane finishes and water based finishes and of the 2, prefer the petroleum based for the wear-ability and because it doesn't look as plastic-y as water based, but if you want natural floors they will yellow. Mine were stained and that wasn't an issue. People have had wood floors for a lot longer than urethane coatings have been available and those floors lasted a long time. My son used Waterlox on a kitchen island top that he made. He loved it and it held up well in that situation but it isn't a look that I want on my floors. Here's a link to a product comparison page from that lumber yard - maybe this will give you some help. i'm still stumbling in the dark, too.

Here's what I could find out about the OP's choice: Legno Bastone- Guiseppina European materials made in Europe (which explains the price tag!) 13mm thick (1/2") 180mm wide (7") 1950mm longest length (6.4') UV Cured Hardwax Oil Finish The installation instructions state this floor can be glued, floated or nailed. If nailing down, you will need to assume the use of glue-assist because of the width of these planks. A full spread glue is probably your best option (pricey as it may be). The MAINTENANCE is always what I'm after when dealing with a hardwax Finish. The manufacturer prefers OSMO products (mentions it 9-10 times in the Residential Care link) http://www.legnobastone.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Legno-Bastone-Inc-Residential-Care-Instructions-01-02-2018.pdf I ALWAYS suggest a coat of maintenance oil once the floor has been laid...just before you move back into the house. This is a common requirement for COMMERCIAL installations. The reason: these floors can look THIRSTY fresh out of the box. And if they have been exposed to remodeling activity, they can get a little worn even before you move in. To prevent owner upset, it is well worth it to have the maintenance oil put down 1-2 days before the furniture goes back in. That way you have the freshest floor finish possible. And if you are going to do the maintenance yourself, it is a GREAT TIME to have the professionals SHOW YOU what to do and how to do it. This takes all the stress out of owning oiled floors. And PLEASE purchase EVERY SINGLE OSMO item listed in the maintenance link! Get everything ready BEFORE the floor needs it! And I mean everything. That way you are READY and able when life hits the fan!

@SJ McCarthy the water-based polyeurethane did not come in a matte finish and we wanted a matte finish to help hide scratches. We also wanted to move away from polyeurethane altogether and into more natural finishes like oil, wax, hardwax, etc. We saw samples of the polyx clear on a lot of light woods and they did not turn amber as with an oil-based poly. Even when the osmo looked amber, it was nowhere near as dark as the oil-based poly went. While the pine did look quite dark initially, as noted in my above comment, the end result after it dried for a few days is indeed almost clear and comparable to the water-based poly. It has a little more depth in terms of colour, but less shine than the satin polyeurethane we used last time. We are very happy with the end result (though next time we will likely try raw first to keep the wood even lighter!) And it is definitely helpful to know that the polyx lightens up over the first couple of days after application as it dries!