babyboomer1001: 100% silicone is perfect caulk between a sink flange and the bottom of stone. Polyseamseal and other Latex caulks are not; they do not have the adhesive stickiness or flexibility of silicone. It's best if you can pull your sink, clean the sink flange and stone bottom, recaulk with silicone and reinstall the sink. If this isn't reasonably possible, use a stiff plastic shim or plastic laminate to gouge the caulk out, clean the gap with acetone, and recaulk with silicone. Ignoring a leaking sink flange can have catastrophic consequences if your top has been "rodded" or reinforced with steel. If the fabricator used the wrong rod and/or the wrong bedding the rod can rust and blow up your top. I've fixed about 8 of these so far and it runs around $1,000.00-$1,600.00.

There is also another GE Silicone II K/B Supreme that is "mold-free product protection helps keep the cured caulk mold- and mildew-free and looking clean for 10 years, with regular cleaning." Here is a link that might be useful: GE Silicone II K/B Supreme

Live Wire Oak - your comments don't mention that the big name brands also sell "asian imports". You won't sell any "off brands" (what does that mean - Kraus?), but Blanco, Franke, Kohler all sell chinese-made sinks. Usually the only way you can tell is by looking on the box, where the origin is required to be listed. Sometimes if you call the company, and ask about a specific model number, they will tell you, sometimes not. Furthermore, many sink manufacturers source their stainless steel from Asia, even if the sink itself is made in U.S., Turkey, or Switzerland. There is no way to tell that. Warps and dents occur in sinks with thin gauge, regardless of where they are made. Rusting is a result of people using steel wool on their sinks, which leaves behind particles which sit on the surface and rust. You will find rusting from this in a $2000 sink. Your criticisms don't jibe with all the satisfied customers of Kraus and Vigo. You've been on this forum a while, and must have seen their posts.

Thank you! So appreciate the advice so far! In response to questions/advice: •(pamthecook and sprtphntc7a) will do white/almost white grout. •(Karen Rose) will ck w/Floor&Decor. BTW, subway tiles are 4”x2” •(Everyone, lol) Will kiss semi-flush good-bye! •(Patricia Colwell Consulting) Hardware finishes thru-out house: upstairs has original glass knobs on original five panel doors. Downstairs missing both original hardware and doors via previous owners. We changed the cheaper doorknobs with brushed nickel round doorknobs; willing to change to glass? (however, we can’t afford to change the brushed nickel lever doorknobs/smart deadbolts on exterior doors). •(herbflavor) I’ll do a rendering of the kitchen cabinets “soon” so you can picture how they will look re: how much hardware needed. •(herbflavor) yes that’s a peninsula. Can’t open the wall further without moving sewer stack and heating run both hidden in that 14” thick wall. Am moving water pipes to get the 40”. I understand how counter could take some counterpoint using darker iron finish hardware. If I went that route, what would I do with the door knobs? Glass? (Three doors in the kitchen, one in dining room). •(Patricia Colwell Consulting) keep with stainless hardware: either polished or brushed nickel? Just polished? Just brushed? •(pamthecook) The frig/pantry end will have painted walls. And painted walls beside and above the two windows. I love deep colors, contrast. That’s why I kept being drawn to the black granites. And am drawn to these blue shades (or thereabouts) for painted walls: Behr Striking or Behr Aqua Fresco. The largest wall, pantry/frig wall, still has a lot of white (two 32” white doors and recessed frig)