That is some major work going on. Congrats. I see why you are looking for recipes below. Can't wait to see the after.

Reader, the prints in the bathroom are called Serengeti I and II by Tandi Venter. The artist is from South Africa I believe. DH and I had the opportunity to go on a safari in SA with our church group a few years ago, and although these are just common art posters, they make me think of our personal trip. I bought the prints on eBay and made the frames out of door casing trim. They are fantastic posters, but the odd size made buying stock frames impossible (and custom was more than I wanted to spend ;-) Lynn, thanks so much for the kind words. I'm glad you commented on the cabinet color; I haven't seen many painted to blend with the walls, so I wasn't sure of the reception it would get. Those original cabinets are extremely sturdy and well built but didn't have anything going for them in the looks department. I wanted to downplay their appearance and size but maximize their function. It didn't hurt that using all one color allowed me to just spray on the paint willy-nilly, either!

Ikea food for thought: Yes, get a laser level if you're doing your own installation. A lot lighter than DH's 4' level. Getting the Sektion rail level and straight is KEY the Blankett handle is its own template. Don't bother with the $2 Fixa template if you're using Blanketts I had originally ordered all 15" Blanketts to make things easy--or so I thought. It was a much easier installation to have handles the same width as the drawers. To do over, I would first try to arrange the fronts on the floor to see if a particular order would look better. This obviously only applies to Askersund. Torham would've been a better style for our house, but it's too busy for me and I couldn't take looking at it all the time. I also almost got Kallarp because I love turquoise and our house is rustic Southwestern, but in the end I thought it would be too dark. The ceiling is almost 9' and originally I was going to try to do some trim between the cabs and ceiling, but the OC (over cabinet) lighting was a far better idea. That's the light (on the dimmest setting) we leave on when we'll be coming home after dark. Because we did the work ourselves, and we're retired, we could take our time. This ended up in putting the cabs a couple of inches lower than planned; DH had first wanted the over-sink cab higher so he would have no remote chance of head bumping but then changed his mind. Whew. We took 10 days-two weeks from start of work to the end, including the garage and laundry cabs. I made sure we did the garage cabs first so we could practice before my laundry cabs lol! We ended up doing the cover panels twice. So, please, first install the UC lighting and THEN do your cover panels! DH had to remove the panels to cut a notch for the new Stromlinje UC lights. I found that I have no patience for fine tuning the cab front looks. I got them to function and well, close enough! So a pro would have done better here, I guess. On the cabs where we knew exactly where the drawers and doors would be, we installed the slides and hinges on the cab sides BEFORE assembling the cab. That way we could have the sides laying flat on the work bench rather than crouching /reaching from odd angles after the cabs are hung. This did make the sides heavier to lift for assembly, especially the 30x90, but worth it. We used a Sears ATV jack (left over from our previous life in dirt bikes) to lift and lower the tall cabs into place. This was especially great for the 30x90 cab, which was too heavy to comfortably lift and was fit into a corner to boot. Well, that's all I can think of for now. Hope this might be helpful to someone.

When I was growing up we had a laundry combo in the kitchen area and that did not work well at all. Sometimes the laundry gets backed up and it makes a mess. Better to have it somewhere where you can shut the door and leave it until you have time to do it.