80's oak built-ins on fireplace wall - tear down or leave alone?
chitoor
last year
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Should I tear down the wall for open concept?
Comments (48)Alex, Regarding the wall, what if you built a wall below the stair loft and make that front room the piano room. Then open up the kitchen to the current piano room and use it as a family room/dining space. Sort of how it was set up in the listing photos. I agree with others that you need an interior designer/architect to come up with a cohesive plan for your home to bring it to your modern style. The work could be done in phases or all at one, whatever your finances allow. It will be very expensive as others have stated, but you probably already knew that. Your kitchen choices look alot like those used in the first kitchen picture from Debbie Washburn's post last Monday at 9:17am. Very modern, very nice. There's no reason why you shouldn't move forward with that design scheme. It's your house. You seem to understand the value of the woodwork. Don't feel pressured to keep it. Maybe you could have an architectural salvage company come to your home and remove all the woodwork they want, that way it could be reused eventually. Hopefully you got the house treated for termites! :)...See More80s oak kitchen--any thoughts?
Comments (48)If you don't want "nasty plastic chemicals" I assume you are ripping out the vinyl flooring and replacing it with ceramic tile, which unless you are on a slab will necessitate reinforcing the floor and putting down hardibacker. ESPECIALLY given that they nearly always use some version of OSB as floor underlayment. It isn't the load bearing capacity that is the problem, it is flexion. If your floor flexes with vinyl or wood its not a big deal. The same amount of flex with tile will crack tile and/or grout. I would never go larger than 12" tile on wood underlayment no matter how it is pumped up. Anyone who tells you you can cheap out on your underlayment is either an idiot or they're lying to you. I LOVE tile flooring - but unless you're on a slab its a lot of extra expense. Almost any of the laminate plank flooring will be a better option on a wood underlayment without additional expense. In other words, your best bet to replace that floor is "nasty plastic chemical having" vinyl sheet flooring expense-wise (and even appearance-wise, many vinyl sheet flooring designs are QUITE attractive), or laminate plank. The only thing I find "wrong" with the kitchen as it is is it seems dark, but that could be a function of your photography. There is no reason to replace those cabinets and you would have to pay a LOT to get similar quality. I would strip and refinish in a lighter color or paint. As in you paint them yourselves. They make several versions of paint suitable for painting cabinets that show few, if any, brushmarks. If you use the proper prep, primer, and brushes. And patience. I don't care for the flooring but wouldn't replace it unless it is actually worn or I was flush with money. The vinyl flooring I've seen in Home Despot is way uglier though so - really I think you're sort of lucky with what you have. Actual flooring companies undoubtedly have more options but will also (undoubtedly) be more costly than the Big Box stores. Watch for laminate plank on sale. That can be quite attractive and affordable at the right price. This is a minor quibble but those curtains are TOO long. Personally I don't want curtains draggling in the overspray from my sink. Hem them, replace them, or raise the rod. Mostly I don't think there's a thing wrong with your kitchen. I'd leave it alone unless you know you're going to be in it for years and years, in which case do whatever you want to it. "Upgrading" for sale is also not sensible. You will DEFINITELY NOT get your money back in a mere 2 or 3 years. I would also never put a rug in a kitchen. They get nasty fast. Comfort mats in front of work areas, sure. Rug - no. And that rug in the picture is way uglier than the floor itself. IMO....See MoreTore out built-ins, what to do with gaps between wall & fireplace
Comments (33)Thanks Ci_lantro for the code info! I looked up our local code and it's only 6 inches from the firebox for mantels and trim and combustible materials within 12 inches can only protrude an 1/8" for every inch away from the firebox. We have appx 22" of space now. Good info to have it we plan on putting the trim around it. We peeked behind to see where the drywall ends. We could take out the first row of brick but there is no drywall after that - and my drywall skills aren't such that I want to get into that mess (or pay someone to do it). Thanks everyone for the ideas. We have plans in the next week with a friend in the fireplace business and a family member familiar with the code so we'll pick their brains with some of these ideas!...See MoreBuilt-ins or furniture pieces on sides of Stone Fireplace?
Comments (29)Does anyone have a pic with stone wrapped on the sides and built-ins? Because I see that as contradictory the way I see built-ins usually done. The built-ins need to attach to something and while they could be designed to attach to stone, that would be a fairly custom thing to do. Now if they are just shelves like the inspiration photo, then obviously stone on the sides is straightforward and easy. But to me- that is not a built-in. I just realized that we have window seats next to (and attached to) brick. There is basically a caulk line. It is painted brick so I think that is a little easier to have it look right - but I could see it with a flat cultured stone also. Not sure I would like it but I could see it. Don't really love it with the brick but it is only 18 inches off the ground. We purposely designed the fireplace with windows on either side to make sure that no one put built-ins in this house for the eternity of its existence. Because of what chocolatesnap said. There also happens to be an ad next to this thread with a pic of white subway tile in a kitchen. Ugh....See Morechitoor
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