Araucaria, March update
41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal)
2 months ago
last modified: 2 months ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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March Updates
Comments (44)Well, Sir Andrew. You're mighty mature for 14. And yes, I distinctly remember 14. In fact, it is permanently burned on my brain forever until I die (whether I want to remember it or not). I dare say just about every other GW Citrus Forum member will concur. And yes, many "adults" treat 14 yo's like they don't have a brain up there. Mainly because most 14 yo's don't (I was one once, and frequently did not remember to take my brain with me on occasion.) Could be worse - you could be a 14 yo girl mistaken for a 14 yo boy. The two adults weren't condescending, just stupid. Or blind. Or possibly both :-) Yea. That DID happen. And, pretty sure I don't look like a boy. Then or now :-) 14 can be a wee bit rough. It does get better, though. Promise. And, a Sanguinelli is a blood orange, and quite delicioso. But, rather tempermental as far as weather goes. They like it a bit hotter than I usually get where I live, but I'm going to give it a try, along with my Moro blood orange. Here's a link to the Sanguinelli on the Citrus Pages: http://users.kymp.net/citruspages/bloodoranges.html#sanguinelli And, I added a link to the Sanguinelli on UCR Citrus Collection's web site, too. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: UCR Citrus Collection - Sanguinelli Blood Orange...See MoreMarch updates and pictures! 2012
Comments (47)Oh wow! Mike, look at those blooms and Andrew, if you can hook me up with a Basjoo, please do:-)!! I took tarps of my Figs trees and they made it this winter! I can only imagine how well the bananas will do! Mike, those blooms are beautiful. I can smell them from here, oh wait, that is the fragrance from mines coming from outside into the house.lol Mike, if I got three days of rain, my citrus would thrive in that! I see you are having an issue with your gritty mix. What do you use to water your mix with all winter? Please let me know, ok? That would explain the leaf drop too. Nice Mike! Hello Andrew! It's so good to hear your plumie made it. Yahoo...PICS PLEASE.lool Thank you Andrew for your mail:-) Josh, great suggestion, the luke warm water. Very nice suggestion:-) Has it stopped raining, well, snowing there yet? Wow, and I thought we were suppose to get more snow than you, not heat! Strange weather, right? How are your trees faring? Houston! I LOVE all your trees. I see a Mango and a few Figs:-) They are all looking pretty good there. I was wondering if you used protection for them this year or at least was prepared? I remember last year was brutal on your trees. Looking very nice and thank you fro sharing your pics. Do you like containers better than in-ground? You have lots of them and very nice. Mike, by the way, very good idea to bring those plants inside. They are vulnerable to root rot for sure with that much rain and cool temps. Mike:-)...See MoreUpdated Drought Outlook Thru March 2012
Comments (6)Lizgyrl, I don't live anywhere close to the east either, and it is discouraging. However, my garden produced great until July last year even in the midst of tough conditions. It just didn't produce as much as it normally does. My mistake was to try to keep it producing in July and August, which was a waste of time, effort and money. This year I'll just expect spring and fall production, and if rain falls in summer, that will be good but I am not counting on a lot of summer rainfall, since the summer rains can be fairly scant even in a normal year. To plan for a drought, I look for short-season vegetable varieties that will have a chance to make a crop before the heat and lack of moisture shut them down in July or August. When you look at our average last frost dates for spring and average first frost dates for fall, it looks like we have a really long growing season here. That's a bit misleading though, because extreme summer heat can shut down the production of most veggies, except for the most heat-tolerant ones like okra, southern peas and melons in the middle of that long growing season. What we really have is several mini-seasons within our theoretically long growing season. In a drought year, it is more like we have a spring growing season and a fall growing season with a couple of hellishly hot months sandwiched in between. You can work around those hot months by planting to get good spring and fall harvests even if mid-summer harvests are poor. For example, if you want to plant green beans in a drought year, it is important to get them into the ground as soon as the soil temps and air temps are warm enough in spring, because once the really hot summer weather arrives, their production drops. So, I choose the most heat-tolerant and drought-tolerant varieties I can find, and I plant as early as possible, and I look for varieties with shorter days-to-maturity numbers. This means I might be planting more bush beans than pole beans since bush beans make a crop faster and for pole beans I'll chose varieties with DTMs in the 50s-70s instead of DTMs in the 70s-90s. It is the same thing with most other crops. However, most varieties of okra, southern peas (blackeyes, pinkeyes, purple hull pinkeyes, xipper, lady, cream and crowder peas), melons, some peppers and some tomatoes will produce well in periods of drought as long as they get adequate moisture, which may or may not be possible but I always figure I can water enough to get something from those veggie plants. A lot depends on how much spring rainfall you get and on whether your area is subject to water restrictions/rationing in the summer months. With watermelons, in a drought year I plant only the small ones, often called refrigerator melons because they are small enough to fit into the fridge easily, because they survive on less water than the varieties that make really large melons. It is a lot easier to get ripe melons from a plant that produces 8 or 10 or 15 lb. melons in a drought year, than from a plant that produces 20 or 40-lb. melons. I'll be posting my veggie Grow List for 2012 today, and it will have some very heat-tolerant and drought-tolerant varieties on it that do better in drought than some of the varieties I usually plant in a wetter year. In order to have better results in a drought year, I pay extra attention to soil preparation in winter and add as much organic matter to the garden beds as I reasonably can. Then, after the plants are up and growing, I mulch them heavily to keep the soil cooler and more moist, and I shade them with shade cloth or old sheets once the real heat kicks in. Even so-called "full sun" plants often do quite well in our climate with only 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight because our heat and sunlight tend to be quite intense. There's a lot you can do to work around anticipated drought conditions, but if we have another epic drought in 2012 like we had in 2011, then there is only so much you can do to help your plants cope with weather like that. With each thing we like to plant, there's always going to be some varieties that produce better in heat and those are the ones I try to plant in drought years. So, it is more important to plant with your brain than your heart in a year when you're expecting drought, choosing the varieties likely to do best in drought conditions instead of just going with your usual favorites that might require more water and still might not produce as well. With flowers and herbs, I plant fewer in drought years and make the same decisions about varieties---which do best in low-water situations and which ones are the toughest, sturdiest survivors? I guess the big thing about a drought year is that we know we cannot force some things to grow well and produce well in the absence of adequate moisture and in the presence of extreme heat, so we have to garden smarter and probably lower our expectations somewhat. Still, even in a drought year, we can have great harvests. Last year I had the largest potato and onion harvests ever, and about the best lettuce year we've ever had as well. The lettuce was burning up in the heat by the time June arrived. That is fairly typical, though, for lettuce in our climate. Some cool-season crops, like sugar snap peas and broccoli, did not perform as well in 2011 as they usually do because we had too many days in spring when the temps were hitting the 80s and 90s which was too hot for those plants and caused their growth to stall. Still, when the May rains brought us more moderate temps and lots of moisture even those veggie crops produced something, though not as much as usual. Dawn...See MoreMarch 20th video update
Comments (11)jutsFL......I try to get them outside if the temperature is 60+. I've had them outside at least 6 or 7 times over the last month. I also limit the time in direct sunlight. My deck only receives sunlight till about 2 pm. I usually can't get them outside till around 11 a.m. That means they only get 2 to 3 hours of direct sun. The one day they received more than that, most of them showed signs of sun damage. I'll eventually put them in large pots and set them next to the house. I gradually move them away from the house, thus allowing them to receive a little more light each day. I'm sure you have to be a little more cautious in Florida. Tim...See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 months agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
2 months agoBillMN-z-2-3-4
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agosam_md
2 months agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
2 months agoEmbothrium
2 months ago41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal)
2 months agobengz6westmd
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoBillMN-z-2-3-4
2 months ago41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoBillMN-z-2-3-4
2 months agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
2 months agolast modified: 2 months ago41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal)
2 months agobengz6westmd
2 months agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agoBillMN-z-2-3-4
2 months agolast modified: 2 months agosam_md
2 months agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
2 months ago
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