You don't want gear driven sprinklers or sprinklers with tiny holes. Look into impact rotors. Impact heads Impact heads are sprinklers that have a spring-loaded swinging arm that breaks up the stream of water flowing from the head as the sprinkler turns, making the tell-tale impact-sprinkler sound as it rotates. Grounds managers have been using impact heads for many decades and still specify them today because of their simple, rugged and dependable design. The radius of throw ....snip... One of the other advantages of this time-proven sprinkler design is that it can be used in dirty water applications without much trouble. With impact heads, the water simply blows right through the entire assembly with no small gears or intricate seals to get fouled by debris or build-up. http://www.grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_maintenance_irrigation_heads/

Yup, If you are doing what is called square spacing, then you will have points that will have upto four heads hitting the same area. But if you use triangular spacing (where each row is offset from the previous row), then you'll usually only have spots where three heads are hitting. Given that I've never seen very much that otherwise addresses the issue you bring up, I guess it's just treated as "wasted water". I.e., it's better to design where some spots in the lawn will get too much water than to design such that any spots get too little water.

A search using "How to move in-ground sprinkler head" -- but no quote marks-- brought multiple results, both text & videos.

I've heard that new trees should get 45 minutes a day ==>>> that a nonsensical answer from peeps who have no clue about your soil.. in your yard.. in your weather ... water plants when they need them.;.. and then let them near dry ... i think i gave you the link in your other post ... the new shrubs will only need water this year.. and only in drought next year.. and then be free range .. ergo ... you can use a temporary line.. which you just hooks up to the spigot when you need to ... and remove it after next season ... dont forget the mulch ... you would arm yourself with a hand trowel.. run the line for 30 mins.. and then go see how deep the water got ... and then water for another 30 mins ... you want to achieve a deep watering .. down into the root mass .. and keep going.. until you put down PROPER WATER ... after that.. and with good mulch.. you might not need to water again.. for a month ... when the heat of summer really hits .. keep digging small holes AND FIND OUT HOW IT ALL WORKS IN YOUR SOIL ... as noted.. absolutely no one can tell you hole it all works in your microclimate and soil ... ken