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gtdj519

Where to end backsplash tile

gtdj519
23 days ago

Hi

I previously posted a quesrion about shelves, which somehow led into tile placement. I am further along now in my project, all items and trims are in place and backspalsh chosen and ready to install. It seemed a conscensus when asking sbout the shelves, that the backsplash should go up to under the cabinets. I am wondering if that should still be the case or if I should install the tile up to the ceiling behind the shelves. The concern then ; and still somehow now, is that if the tile goes up to the ceiling , it will jet out a bit under the ceiling beam; not as much as previously thought, but nonetheless, it will slightly. I wonder if it will invade a bit into the DR walll. Also, the tile will have to be cut around the edge of the ceiling beam. I wondeer if it will look sloppy in the end and ” look off”. GC andt tile shop both said they could do either way. Tile shop says go to ceiling,. Im just confused what to do . If I dont tile up to ceiling, then above the shelves will just be painted the color of DR and small areas of wall that exist in kitchen ( ceiling beam and around the doorway)

Summary :

Wall was removed between kitchen and DR.

2 white floating shelves will be added where the black brackets are .

1 sconce will be added above top shelf

A strip of crown molding will be added above the sconce to connect and tie together to the existing crown molding.

DR walls will be painted light gray or a blue/ gray above where the white wall panel is is.

Kitchen beam will be painted same color as DR, and around kitchen doorway as well.

So….. should i tile up to cabinets or take to the ceiling?












.


Comments (47)

  • palimpsest
    23 days ago

    I don't think there is any short height to stop it at because it abuts a wainscotting that stops too low for the height of a backsplash and having a backsplash that stops at another height along that wall will just conflict with it.

    I think you have to go all the way to the ceiling in this case rather than create more horizontal lines.

    gtdj519 thanked palimpsest
  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    Didnt look at it that way. Thanks for pointing that out. Will take that into consideration

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  • herbflavor
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    being a "non-statement" tile I would do like this. there is no reason for anything else. the left edge ends at the end of counter and the tile remains under the shelf. A statement tile is a different matter.

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    statement tiles warrant more "display of the tile" which is not the case in yours. and it's a small area in question so there is no need .


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  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago

    thanks herbflavor .

    what about the concern about the wainscotting height that palimpsest brought up? I didnt think of that, but it does seem like something to consider. Im not sure if its an issue or not with height. (?)


  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    23 days ago


    just like this. all the way to ceiling, same crown molding, for the side finish w/a Jolly edge or pencil liner, or even bullnose tiles if they come w/it




  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    Thanks Beth

    My concern wirh doing that thoigh is the beam My tiles will fall slightly under the beam. Look at the wainscotting and ceiling beam. The tile will fall where you see the pencil line drawn and where i marked the blue line. lines It goes a few inches over under the beam and then has ro be cut to fit aroind beams edge. It is a small area, but nonetheless, it is something im not sure how it will look.

    If I stop the tile under the cabinet, as palmioest pointed out, the backsplash will be higher than wainscotting as shown in the other blue line pic.

    I am not sure about that look either. . I feel either way, something may look off. Im

    just not sure which may look better between the two. 🤷‍♀️






  • PRO
    Miloni Mehta
    23 days ago

    Hey! That is quite a dilemma! How much will the overlap be with the beam if you take it all to the top?

    if it is within an inch, you could have a piece of trim bordering the tile placement that goes just under the beam. allowing you to close the tile flush with the beam?

    The choice between not matching the height to the trim, which is at eye level, and not matching it to the beam, which isn't, the latter is the lesser of the two evils.


    gtdj519 thanked Miloni Mehta
  • Kelly Jones
    23 days ago

    My vote is to end tile under the cabinet.

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    The tile would come approx 1.75 inches iunder the beam. Here is where contractor marked it .

    also,

    The tile has this coordinating trim/ liner or a bullnose , which I dont have a pic of, for either scenario


    pencil mark of 1 3/4 inch under the beam to were tile will fall under .


    Can also see pencil markings here for overall view of how it will fall, if you zoom in



  • JP L
    23 days ago

    Ceiling. Definitely. Looks like you're using a ceramic tile - are you installing stacked, running bond or ... ?

    gtdj519 thanked JP L
  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago

    they are 4x12 . Just installing classic horizontal 1/2 running bond

    thank you JP L

  • herbflavor
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    I'd probably take some of the trim around the patio door /or maybe a flat piece.... and center it under the ceiling beam and run it down to finish at top of wainscotting . tile can butt to this piece. you can add molding at the top of this strip where it meets the beam. in reality I would have laid wainscotting from floor to ceiling in this section. not a good area to get into tile trim / bull nose etc. work w trim you already have in form of wainscotting and bring a piece up to the beam . then you have your edge for the tile. simple and looks good. your wainscotting is attractive......more so than the tile trim . Here are flat pieces that ascend to ceiling w even more trim high up...in your case the detail is a beam..... you can add this sort of piece /it will blend in and tile butts to it.


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  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    23 days ago

    I think it will be fine w/the pencil liner under the beam. not a big deal. just cut the tile up around the beam. a good tile setter could do that


    it would look worse if you stopped the tile at cabinet height and had the wainscot at another height.



    gtdj519 thanked Beth H. :
  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    thank you for the idea herbflavor. I will ask GC about that option

    also, the wainscotting was exisring we didnt add that . Working with what is in place and trying to blend old/ existing and new remodel

  • PRO
    Miloni Mehta
    23 days ago

    With a 1.75 inch overhang, Adding a trim butted to the wainscoting is definitely the way to go. Have someone hold up a scrap piece of trim and the tile near the beam and check if you like the look.

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    miloni mehta, you mean a wood trim as herbflavor suggested?

    im sorry im getting confised and not knowing what trim everyone is referring to , tile trim or wood trim.

    you mean adding a piece of white wood trim, from the top of under the beam to the top of the wainscotting?

    you both mean add a wood molding/trim here where purple line is?



    here is also a pic of the tile and the liner/trim

    this is how it will fall if just tile is used.




  • PRO
    Miloni Mehta
    23 days ago

    Yeah, we're suggesting adding a wood trim painted white, matching the wainscoting where the purple line is. herbflavor is suggesting centering it and I am suggesting lining it up with the counter immediately after the wainscoting. So it will be wainscoting - trim - tile from the door towards the counter.




  • PRO
    Miloni Mehta
    23 days ago

    If the trim is 1.75", the tile will be a straight line from the counter to the ceiling.

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago
    last modified: 23 days ago

    Thank you all so much for the helo snd suggesrions . All of it was very helpful

    i spoke to my GC and he said we will olay around with it and see what may look best. He pointed out that if we did the wood trim, it would come down onto the countertop, and that edge of the counter will have wood trim above it , as opposed to tile.

    Like this :

    the beown represents white wood trim . The tile would then start 1.5- 1.75 inches in from the edge of the coutnertop



  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    23 days ago

    Unfortunately, i think no matter which way i try to remedy it, I will have some small odd area to accept and live with .

    I appreciate all the ideas to work with. Truly helpful to have a few options to play with for the best end result

  • Toni Hamlett
    8 days ago

    Looks really nice, congrats

    gtdj519 thanked Toni Hamlett
  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    8 days ago

    Thank you Toni Hamlett . trying to pick a grout . I cant decide!! white ( avalanche), light gray ( frost) or rain (match to tile.)




  • Kelly Jones
    8 days ago
    last modified: 8 days ago

    Congrats, you're almost done! Looks wonderful!

    Definately match the tile.

    gtdj519 thanked Kelly Jones
  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    7 days ago

    that looks good!

    I like the Rain grout. or the Frost second. White is too bright

    gtdj519 thanked Beth H. :
  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    7 days ago
    last modified: 7 days ago

    Thank you kelly jones and agreed about the white Beth H.

    what is giving me pause is that I noticed this morning though that once the rain dried, it dried uneven in color. The middle seems darker than the sides to me. I am not sure if this has anyhring to do with it, but the rain is sanded and avalanche and frost unsanded. The rain doesnt come unsanded. I have 1/16 grout lines I am concerned that iI may have uneven grout colors throughout the backspalsh. so any of you have any idea if this was just a one off on the sample board or if this is a common issue with sanded grout? i will post a pic

    Rain is top line

    avalanche and frost are split on bottom line


    Close up of how I think the middle looks darker than the sides


  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    7 days ago
    last modified: 7 days ago

    if you have 1/16, then you'll have to use unsanded. the sanded grout has particles that are too large for that space and that's why you're getting uneven looking colors. (should also tell you that on the package. Sanded grout-for grout width 1/8" and over )

    This was on this package of Unsanded Rain grout:

    For grout joint widths from 1/16-in to 1/8-in


    Lowes doesn't have this anymore. did you try Amazon?

    this place carries it

    https://www.belktile.com/mapei-ultracolor-plus-fa-grout-rain/



    don't forget the matching color in the caulk. use between countertop/tile, or anywhere around water or the window





    or maybe try the silver or warm gray?

    also be careful not to use too much water during the cleaning phase.

    Lowes has Mapei. Warm Gray is a good choice. silver or waterfall may also work


  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    7 days ago
    last modified: 7 days ago

    Thank you beth H. What you said may be the reason why. I am not installing this myself. I have installers / GC.

    I purchased the grout from local tile shop. He said that Mapei stopped making rain in unsanded, , as it is not a popular color. When I looked online, it is not sold anywhere / says no longer available etc. except for that Belk listing. ( not sure how much I trust that)

    i can try another sample of it, but if what you said about lines being 1/16 is the reason, then i think its going to happen again.

    Warm gray is too dark. I dont like it.

    Maybe the frost if the rain dries uneven again??? Thoughts about the frost?? Im really bummed about this

    also, the sanded grout I used also says it can be used on 1/16 (??)

    this is so annoying !!!😂



  • theresa21
    7 days ago

    I have frost with white tiles. It is a cool very-pale gray, no undertones that I can detect. With my white tiles you can hardly notice it, but upon closer inspection, you can see that it is gray. Frost defines the white tile just a touch. It looks much darker in this photo than it is in RL.



  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    7 days ago

    Thanks theresa21.

    i have frost in a bathroom with white/ gray tiles. I like it, I am just not sure about using it with the blue kitchen tiles. I did it as a sample and I think its okay, but wondering howmit will look once all done if I used it

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    6 days ago
    last modified: 6 days ago

    I'm not familier w/the Mapei FA grout, seems like it's better suited for a shower rather than a backsplash. it's fast setting polymer that dries quickly, repels stains and other issues you'd get from grout that gets used a lot.

    Make sure your tile guy knows how to use this specific grout. If it's like the Flexcolor CQ, it's a whole other ballgame during clean-up.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECzUDW9p5OM&t=402s

    Not sure it's worth all the hassle and the price.

    I'd prob just do the plain old Custom unsanded grout.


    Or, look at Laticrete. they have some nice blue/gray grouts (Smoke Gray? Silver Shadow?


    But it's your ballgame! Try the rain again.

    If it still gives you problems, the Frost looks good. what look are you after?

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    6 days ago
    last modified: 6 days ago

    Thank you Beth H youre always so heloful and kind.

    The custom grout … where do I buy that( the arctic ice looks similar to the rain.

    there is a local rile shop that sells laricrete. I will check those. as well

    i like frost, but i am just unsure how it will look all installed. I am not sure if the frost grout will pull more gray color out of the tile. its a light blue- gray tile, which I would like to stay leaning blue in color.

    I also don’t want the backsoalsh to look like a blue and gray checkerboard- I am not sure if the frost grout will look so gray, and have that affect on it I want to keep the kitchen soft and calm looking, and these final details sre going to make or break the esthetic I am hoping for. these renovarions have been rough… a lot of bumps in the road.

    i would either like the colors to blend, but if I cant get a grout to blend, then at least white matches the cabinets….. maybe use white??? but no one in my family , or on here so far,likes the white.

    I just don’t want the gray grout to feel random.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    the white is too white

    Custom is sold at Home Depot.

    i used warm grey w/my white tile and my marble tile and it's more of a softer white w/gray undertones. I really like it




    this was the Flexclor CQ (which is quite the pain to use and clean up. you have to be fast and work in small sections while grouting) I don't think you need the fancy grout for a backsplash. just use the regular cementious grout. (which Mapei does have)


    I believe I also used it on this shower remodel job w/this blue tile. it was either warm gray or the Oyster gray by Custom.


  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Thanks Beth H

    I picked up some laricrete grout today in silver shadow , frosty and steamship, which seems ro be an exact match for rain .

    They are also sanded , and can be used on 1/16 , but I was told the sand in laricrete is finer than Mapei. He said the undsamded are ones you have to add color to the grout and are a bit of pain, but could order it if I really insisted on the unsadned. The store owner ironically used the same tile as mine in his kitchen as well used the laticrete in silver shadow at 1/16 and said he had no issues.

    so…. I will have installer do samples of the 3 new laricrete as well as try the rain mapei again to see what happens .

    Pretty shower. I like the blue

  • Sally T
    5 days ago

    @gtdj519 - the tiling is beautiful! totally the right choice to tile it that way.


    I love your countertops! what material are they? Thanks!

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Thank you Sally T. I caught a lot of flack on houzz in other threads when I was contemplating taking the tile to the top.

    I almost didnt do it. I am glad I took the advice from those on here that thought it could be done, and suggested ways around any potential issues. I too am very happy with the end result. It all worked out.😊

    My countertop is marble. Namibian Sky / its a pure white with light blue and grey veining. It is homed and I absolutely love it.

    It is sealed, It does not stain, not as porous as other marbles. the honing masks any etching that may be ( I havent seen any yet). I love the marble!!!

  • Sally T
    5 days ago

    @gtdj519 - it's all impeccable! You should be super proud. I LOVE the marble!

    gtdj519 thanked Sally T
  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    That countertop you got is also called "Python" Python White, python gray.

    it's so pretty

    these first two are honed






    princess White is another name I've seen given to it



    have you tested yours (if you have any left over pieces) with lemon juice or staining?

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Yes, that pic is it Beth H . I am not sure if princess white is used for it. Ive seen slabs of things called princess white, but they always looked different. I have never heard of python white/ gray ( kind of creepy 🤣)

    i have seen it as Namibian Sky, Namib Sky, African Mont Blamc, and Damasco Blue marble .

    Stone industry is beyond frustrating for multiple names of the same stone!



  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Sally T here are a few pics to see the colors a bir better. the blue backspalsh now being up brings out the blue even more in the marble. I am glad I chose the blue over white for the look I was hoping for. Everyone here was so helpful rheough this process





  • Sally T
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    @gtdj519 - thank you! It is really, really stunning - and now I'm remember your island issue from the fall! Everything is working out beautifully!


    ETA: what color are your cabinets?

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Yes Sally T

    i had so many bumps in the road with my kitchen and barhroom renovations. 🤦🏼‍♀️

    The island size was another issue I got ripped apart about LOL Honestly, I LOVE my skinny island with casual seating for 4. It is exaclry what I needed and works perfectly . Again…. so many helpful members on here that gave suggestions and ideas that helped it come together against the odds.

    My cabinets are chantilly lace. I had them refinished. They are the original wood cabinets.

    i will post once fully done. We are nearing the finish line 😊

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    gtd,,,I'm in love w/that stone. It's honed? have you sealed it yet?

    did they give you any leftovers? I hope you have something you can test with acids and staining products just so you can see what will happen.

    what are the shelves going to be? (please say wood ;)

    so pretty!! what's the sconce?



    this would look cool over your sink. find one w/the blue stripe


    gtdj519 thanked Beth H. :
  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Thank you beth H the marble is double sealed. . It is honed. i tested it thoroughly before install with everything. No staining , if lemon or ir lime is left for a long period of time ( neither of which I use regualrly) it will leave a light etch, but with the honing, it really is non existent.. I had to bend over and twist my neck while holding the sample in the right light to even find find the test etch. Oiils, sauce, , butter , etc…. no staining at all!! I had a few cutting boards/ serving boards made from extra marble. I actually have this same marble on a custom sideboard I had made 9 years ago for my dining room, but it is polished on the sideboard. the sideboard is now in my living room, as we removed the wall for kitchen renovarion,, so it lost its home in the DR- LOL

    but, it works in the LR, so its fine.

    my shelves are chantilly lace- not wood. It just wasnt the look I wanted. I have a clear water glass sconce with chrome hardware for over the shelves and 2 large matching water glass pendants for over the island.





  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    5 days ago

    ok, they match the cabs. that will be nice w/the sconce you got

  • gtdj519
    Original Author
    5 days ago
    last modified: 5 days ago

    Yep… I wanted them to match the cabients. I wanted the kitchen to be light/ airy., so I kept all the wood white, lightned the floors when they were refinished and kept fixtures in textured clear glass. i have my DR now incorporated with the kitchen. My DR furniture and lighting stayed, , so I needed to have everything work with each other.

  • sydneyfv
    4 days ago

    Can’t wait to see the finished pictures. You have beautiful taste.

    gtdj519 thanked sydneyfv
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