Take the cover off. They should have said at the sign of the very first leaves, and left it at that. Congrats BTW!

I see a few issues with your plan. 50 lbs of dolomitic lime is not going to do much for 10k square feet. For 10K square feet you would need about 400 lbs of dolomitic lime per application. The other thing is you might need calcitic lime, not dolomitic. Did you get calcium and magnesium levels from your soil test? According to the label Weed B Gone shouldn't be applied less than 4 weeks before seeding. If you spot spray weeds, it's probably not a huge issue, but a blanket spray with a hose end sprayer might prevent some germination. Questions: 1: You can put Milorganite down, I would apply it after putting the seed down. 2: Weeds need to be actively growing for it to work well. 3: Again, make sure you are using the right lime. Raising pH is a marathon, not a sprint. It takes a long time, and dolomitic is the slower of the two. It's hard to say how much, but I would venture a guess of 5-10 applications of 40 lbs. per 1000 square feet, so 3-6 years. 4. Powdered I think is better applied with a drop spreader, but make sure it is calibrated correctly. Pelletized is much easier to apply. 5. I've used top soil, top soil/peat moss mix, and peat moss. I preferred the top soil/peat mix, but it requires a lot more than you think it will take. I think you are underestimating costs and amounts of materials. Do you have hoses for the whole yard and timers? The only straw I would use would be shredded straw, and that's like 10 bucks a bale and you would probably need around 10 bales. Also I don't like that blend of seed personally. Midnight is a great KBG cultivar, but I don't think it is the best to mix with TTTF. Also the only TTTF cultivar they listed that I have heard of is Essential, but there are many better ones out there.

I always recommend using alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) at a rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. I've been organic since 2002 and see no benefit to changing. Here's a demonstration of how well alfalfa pellets work. The picture was submitted here to GW back a few years ago by mrmumbles. He was testing alfalfa, I think, because he didn't think it would do anything. Clearly the fertilized part is more dense, deeper green, and growing better. If you cannot find alfalfa pellets, any ground up nut, bean, or seed will work. For example soybean meal, corn meal, corn gluten meal, cottonseed meal, etc. Use whatever is inexpensive and comes in 50-pound bags at your local feed store. Do not use deer corn or other whole grain products. Those are viable seeds and will give you a weedy mess until you mow them down. As long as the product is ground or at lease cracked, it will work fine. With organic fertilizers you can use as much or as little as you want. Unlike chemical fertilizers, it does not need to be watered in and you can use it all summer without burning the lawn. A practical limit to the application is about 60 to 70 pounds per 1,000 square feet. At that point you would be smothering the lawn. There is another limit to use in that using too much at once can cause an aroma of decomposing protein (sour milk). If you stick to 10-25 pounds per 1,000, that aroma goes away quickly. Use more and it seems to linker forever. That aroma is an ammonia smell, and you want all that smell to stay in your yard, so just stick to the low rates.

I am back with a question. These did not have the sender's name on the packet so I have to address my query generally. I received a packet labeled simply "creeping yellow daisy". It may be just what I have been looking for. Would whoever sent that please let me know what it is-just the Genus would be a big help! As far as I know it could be a Sanvitalia, Wedelia trilobata, or Chrysanthemum paludosum, but I am sure there are other possibilities. Thanks! Alana