Hey Laurasreed47, I'm actually getting our floors slightly refinished. We've had them now for about a year and while they look great, they are slightly prone to absorption of liquids. So, out of an abundance of caution, I figured I'd call in a Loba specialist to have them looked at. Sure enough, he said that this was the result of the floors not having been sanded between the final coats. Thankfully we don't need to have them completely redone - they're just lightly sanding our current finish and then applying a final top coat. He said this should do the trick and that this finish is 'one of the best and most durable on the market' so I feel good about it. As I mentioned in the original post, I did everything within my power to try and guide the floor guy our contractor used to the proper application method but was ignored. I think it's been mentioned in a thread somewhere else, but I should have just trusted my gut and found a Loba specialist to begin with. I'm glad we don't have to completely refinish the floors in the end, but it's still a frustration. Also, 'stopping all work' and 'sitting down with contractors to make them make amends' isn't always a viable option. Renovating a co-op apartment in NYC is generally an exercise in constantly making peace with disappointments. Oh, and lastly - the photos I included above aren't really accurate of the final look of the floors. We were still deep in the construction phase (of course I would have liked to have the floors done as the final item but our NYC renovation has been a real nightmare so I took what I could get) so it doesn't really reflect their final look. The floor LOOKS fantastic (I don't know what SJ Mcarthy was referring to with seeing the 'cardboard indentations', to be honest). We did stop work and allow it to cure to a full week when it was first applied but, as mentioned, three coats on top of one another just wasn't enough - the intermediary sanding is crucial. So that's it. Sorry for the long response but wanted to make sure you had all the info. Hope it helps.

Actually, I think you might be fine to move forward with your final 2 coats of Loba 2K Supra AT (for 3 coats total). One of the exceptions to this is if you need something to prevent side bonding with your wood. Look up side bonding and then figure out if you think it is going to be a problem for you in your climate. That's the main thing that the WS EasyPrime prevents is side bonding; in addition, it brings out a rich wood color and helps the first coat of Supra AT to go on more evenly. If you like the color that you have now and side bonding is not a huge concern, then you would probably be better off to move forward rather than trying to sand that floor down again as that could create some brand new issues for you. It's probably not the end of the world that you skipped the hardener on the first coat. If anything, it might make the upper two layers a little more prone to impact, but this coating has a lot of flex built into it, and if you can live with the risk, it might be acceptable for your application. If this is an expensive home with a heavy grand piano or big dogs with claws, then reconsider leaving that first coat unhardened. Also, if this is an area where heavy appliances will be moved or set, I would also consider a re-do. Although I've worked a lot with WS EasyPrime and Loba 2K Supra AT, I'm not a professional, and Loba has an excellent customer service department, at least in the USA where I have utilized it, so if you are able to call and talk to a company representative, that would be the best option for professional advice on your situation. You may find it interesting to know that Loba makes a product called 2K InvisibleProtect AT which is designed to be used alone, without primer, in order to keep the wood as natural a color as possible. Some people have had issues trying to apply InvisibleProtect AT without a primer first, but it can be done. The 2K Supra AT is not usually used for this because it does impart more of a darkening effect than the InvisibleProtect AT--therefore primer doesn't take away from the final effect when Supra AT is used, and there are benefits to primer (side bonding prevention mainly), so it is standard procedure to use the WS EasyPrime under Supra AT. Note that Supra AT is overall more durable than InvisibleProtect AT, though both are outstanding finishes.

Congratulations on making it to the final stage of your renovations! To answer your question regarding two versus three coats. It is always recommended to do a minimum of three total coats for a water base system. It can be any of the combos: 1 seal and two top coats 1 stain and two top coats 3 of the same top coats or A Frankenstein system with 1 top coat from brand "A" and two top coats from brand "B". Of, course this can be the same brand but with two different product lines. A couple of exceptions where a thrid top coat should be considered. High traffic areas Contractor applies below coverage Do you have an opinion on which order to lay three coats if we do three? Inv AT, Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, or Inv AT, Supra AT Satin, Supra AT Satin? If, Invisble can be applied evenly, go ahead with two coats of Supra AT. If, Invisble cannot be applied evenly, you may need two coats of Invisible instead of one, then two coats of Supra AT on top afterwards. Which makes it a total of four. If, you are doing a whole house refinish. I recommend doing one coat per day. This will allow each coat plenty of time to dry and have all the chemicals off gas. This helps prevent bubbles and nibs in the next coat. With the Frankenstein system you are using. i would abrade in between each coat for the smoothest result. Light abrasion with 220 grit for the first coat and a more aggressive abrasion with 220 grit prior to the final coat.

To update, our floors were completed. Our transition spots are actually fine. We left the floors natural, which is what I wanted from the beginning. I love all the different shades and patterns. It was unfortunate but we had a problem with the floor install. Their work was sloppy, bad cuts, bad filler etc. I didn’t want them back in the house but we decided to give them a chance to make it right. They are done and gone and our contractor will deal with them. There are a few spots, ugly cut, mismatched sloppy filler spot and a couple of others that I am not happy with. We are going to get some fresh eyes on it to see what they could do to repair. Anyone else has this problem and resolve it?