MM.111/EMLA.111 (Malling-Merton 111 and the virus-free East Malling-Long Ashton 111) produce very nice apples similar to Northern Spy from which they're descended (GRIN). MM.106 has a reputation for producing nice apples (GRIN), so much so, that many English gardeners (where MM106 is more common) grow it out rather than use it as a rootstock. M.7 is also from the folks at East Malling, and was bred out about 100 years ago. No idea if it's a good eater, but it sure is pretty.

Thapranksta: Your question is a bit difficult as most orchards do not plant all their apples on one rootstock. Often they use several different ones based on what was available when they bought the trees, what pruning/spacing system they wanted for that orchard block,ect. Sometimes hardiness is an issue. For example hardy standard rootstocks (antonovka, prunifola, ranetka ect) are necessary in super cold regions such as ND,SD, WY,MT ect. Most other areas abandoned standard rootstocks years ago as they grow too tall to easily prune/spray/pick. Easier with dwf or semi-dwarf rootstocks. Often spur-type or low vigor varieties (Jonathan) need to be on a less dwarfing rootstock or they runt out and never amount to anything. I hate the terms dwarf or semi-dwarf as too generic. Orchards years ago in WI where I live switched to using M7 as semi-dwarf and free-standing, however they pruduce tons of root suckers. Now the hot rootstocks are Bud 9 & Nick 29 but these trees must be staked for the life of the tree. M26 is still used (8'-12' tall trees) but more prone to fireblight and can tip in heavy clay soils. Every rootstock has advantages and disadvantages depending on climate, soil type, low density planting or high density planting (Tall spindle) ect. My 17 tree hobby orchard has apples on M7, MM111, and yes even 4 on a standard rootstock. I vase prune heavily on some for height control. Others seem jsut fine. My site is weird as very low nitrogen levels. I have to fertilize heavily on new trees and even lightly on old ones or the leaf color is poor. I find my apple trees do not grow as tall at my site as other sites I have grown at. Hence my need for more vigorous rootstocks. Nobody can make you a good suggestion unless we know what soil type you have, are you willing to stake each tree permanently or want free standing orchard ect. Can you provide more information? When you do purchase your trees, watch out! Many mail order and almost all retail outlets will either list them as dwf, semi-dwf or no listing at all. Always ask what rootstock they are on. Don't buy if they can't tell you. A Mcintosh on M26 will be quite shorter than one on MM111. You cannot properly space your trees if you have no idea what rootstock they are on. In fact, one mail order place I called had Cortland on two different rootstocks. After the trees were harvested, they are all mixed together since both rootstocks are "semi-dwarf". Big difference though when some were on M7 and others on Bud 118.

udit: I once saw some spur red delicious on M9 and they were very small trees. Not nearly what the grower wanted. I do think it could work but only at close spacing and for small trees. Say like 2-4 ft by 8-10 ft. So to me it depends on what size tree you want. My none spurs on M9 have been planted about 6ft by 10-12 ft and 9ft tall. Very good trees at that spacing.

Citrus make very nice screening trees, and you can keep your Seedless Kishu to 10' by drop crotch pruning. And, after having to get up on a ladder last week to put up a netting structure around my cherry trees, I realized the value of my "no ladders" rule in my garden, lol! More than once I nearly took a header, due to the uneven ground. If your rootstock in standard and trifoliate, most likely in our area (our commercial tree growers) would be Swingle. The Seedless Kishu trees at the UC Riverside Citrus Variety Collection were probably 15 to 20' tall, so no worries on getting enough height. I've included a very nice PowerPoint presentation done by Tom Del Hotal, the past-president of the San Diego chapter of the CRFG. Tom is an absolute expert with regard to fruit tree pruning. If you have any questions at all about how to maintain proper tree size, canopy for screening, etc., Tom is the person you'd want to contact. He is great, and really, really knows his stuff. He has his own business and also works in the retail nursery industry. Also, Walter Andersen does carry both semi-dwarf and standard trees. Gold Nugget is a vigorous, mostly upright and moderately large tree, naturally, so I would suggest getting your tree on a semi-dwarfing rootstock, or you're going to end up with a 20' tall tree at maturity. Patty S.