Plant over several inches of mulch?
emcoggins
3 months ago
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emcoggins
3 months agoRelated Discussions
tophat blueberry plants -- several questions
Comments (3)It's fun to get started isn't it? Being a brand new gardener you don't mess around either. You chose a moderately difficult plant to grow well. This is probably a plant Al (Tapla) would like for it's small leaves and trunk that looks old pretty quickly (he's a bonsai nut). OK, so let's start at the beginning of your questions and work through them. Per your request I will keep my responses short and not overly detailed (I will try anyway ;) Container type: Seems a 20" pot is ideal if I don't want to repot for at least a couple of years. True? Can I just buy standard type pots and use them as-is or do I need to do any drilling/lining/etc.? I assume I should mulch. A 20" pot would be more room than needed for this dwarf variety. For reference, I used to grow full sized blueberries in 20" or so pots (I now just grow them in the ground). This is fine as long as your potting mix drains very well. If it doesn't the extra potting mix that the roots aren't taking water from will retain water for a long time potentially leading to root rot. I would suggest looking at the roots on your plants and choose a pot that is just slightly large enough to fit them in without having to scrunch them up much. It's going to be easier this way. Cross-pollination: GA catalog says "No pollinator needed." Does this mean I do not need to buy other blueberry varieties? Would it be helpful for me to do it anyway? If so, what varieties do you recommend? You don't need another variety, but yields will likely be higher if you have one nearby. Variety doesn't much matter. Blueberries are listed as early, mid or late season, but this generally just refers to how long after flowering it takes for ripe fruit. Most blueberries will flower around the same time (early-mid spring) regardless of how long they take to ripen so any other blueberry should serve the purpose. Timing: OK to put them in pots and place outside right now? Is winter too close? Yes, you can put them in pots and place outside now, but it's really not the best time. You likely only have another month or so before they begin to go dormant for the winter. You don't have much choice though. You have plants sitting around that need a home and you have to hope for the best. Winter: OK to leave them out in pots over the winter? Is it critical to bury the containers for the winter? If so, when should I do it and when should I pull them back out? Container plants generally need some protection for the winter because the cold hardiness only refers to the above ground portion of the plant, not the roots, but in a container the roots are above ground (the earth insulates plant roots very well). You can either bury the container after the plants lose their leaves (or right away if you like, it won't harm them) or place them in a shed or unheated garage. Your plant is rated cold hardy to zone 3 and you are in zone 6 so with a little protection from the worst winter has to offer they should make it. Remove them from the ground or the shed or whatever when buds begin to swell. Once the plant pushes out new leaves it requires sunlight or it will decline and die. Location: North side of house is pretty sunny but limited space; could put pots on front steps if they're not too big. West side of property is lined with hedges but gets lots of sun during the day. Rest of property has big trees and is pretty shady. Suggestions? You really don't need to avoid the freezes, you need to avoid the freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw cycles. Wherever they spend the winter it should not be a sunny area. The sun can warm/thaw them even when the temps are below freezing in which case they thaw by day and freeze by night. Very bad situation. They don't need any light whatsoever once they lose their leaves which is why the shed/garage is fine. If buried, choose an area that gets little to no direct sunlight. pH: How carefully do I need to check soil pH, and how often? Controlling pH is difficult in containers. I wouldn't bother checking it. Use a water soluble fertilizer and for extra safety add 1/2 ounce white distilled vinegar per gallon of your tap water to acidify it and you will have no pH troubles in a container....See MoreMulch over mulch
Comments (6)What kind of mulch are we talking about here? Bark? Wood chips? Whatever it is, you don't want it covering the crowns of perennials, so you'd do well to pull it off of them. You could cover it with another thin layer of something else if it really bothers you, but if the plants are going to grow in the next few weeks to conceal the soil anyhow, it probably isn't worth it. Or at least it wouldn't be to me, but maybe it is to you. I like to mulch with compost, which is dark brown to almost black and looks natural to me. It isn't the appearance that matters so much to me as how it improves the soil. I usually apply 4" or a bit more twice a year, but the amount that you may need depends on your climate, soil and drainage....See MoreIn This Severe Drought, Invaluable Leaf Mulch in Action
Comments (15)No doubt Mindy that leaf mulch is invaluable to the gardens. I started using them about 5 years ago and have never looked back. I bring home shredded leaves which have been left at the curb by homeowners who have not yet realized their value. Although we are surrounded by deciduous trees, there is not nearly enough to feed our gardens and compost. I also gather whole leaves and pile them to make leaf mold, leaving them to rot for at least a year. By the time I get to them they are black gold. I've done the mower and the shredder and the shredder beats the process hands down. One thing I've discovered through my experience and discussions in the Soil and Compost Forum is that we all underestimate the carbon value of leaves in our perennials beds. Given the choice today to feed perennials with a nitrogen source or a carbon source, my choice would be leaves for their carbon. :O)...See MoreSeverely compacted sandy soil in planting area of new small pines
Comments (9)PROPER WATERING SHOULD BE YOUR ONLY CONCERN .... and the only secondary concern.. is your ability to NOT love them to death .... pines thrive in MI .... put that part out of your head ... proper watering means the ability to get water to the roots that were all cut off for transplant .... and then allowing them to nearly dry before watering again .. while avoiding.... them standing in water for extended periods of time ... compared to our brethren who have clay .. you have great drainage .... even if some storm fills the hole.. full drainage within one day should be OK .... my bigger concern might be blacktop in february ... my kids walk around out there in single digits temps without shoes on sunny days... because the blacktop is so warm .. relatively speaking .... it is not good when the dormant frozen trees roots are brought out of dormancy due to heating of the blacktop .... you may want to consider some burlap along the south side ... to shade the soil from winter sun ... perhaps a new post regarding such .. if no one else chimes in here ... water properly ... deeply.. infrequently .... and nearly drying ... and you should be all set for summer and fall .. then start thinking about winter .... you live in MI .. you have been up north .... once you get north of flint.. pines cover most of the rest of the state ... with little or no help from humans ... ergo.. the suggestion that you dont love yours to death .... deal with the transplants issues .... and the tree will take care of the rest .... good luck ken...See Moredchall_san_antonio
3 months agotete_a_tete
3 months agolast modified: 3 months agoklem1
3 months agodchall_san_antonio
3 months agoJohn D Zn6a PIT Pa
3 months agolast modified: 3 months agoemcoggins
3 months agokrnuttle
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3 months agotete_a_tete
3 months ago
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