Hi SoTexas, No, I didn't. Thanks for the advice anyway. I was looking to trade (which I understand is OK) and since there is no exchange page on the fuchsia forum... It's done on many of the other forums too, and doesn't seem to be a problem on any of them either. I think it's only a problem if you aren't looking to trade. Thanks and hope you found what you were looking for too! :)

mytime, Sorry to not follow up. Gardenweb was not forwarding responses to this post (and for a while all my posts) so I was not aware that anyone had responded to it. I had some bad luck propagating earlier this year and then got sidetracked. Fuchsia boliviana Alba cuttings started to root but some sort of fungus caused problems and killed them. The Correa cuttings I first tried did not root. I will start some new ones now, with bottom heat (which I did not use before). Pretty commonly even without bottom heat factored in a lot of plants propagate poorly in winter. So we'll see. I started a bunch of Deppea cuttings a week ago. That plant had some bug problems earlier in the year and I was reluctant to take a lot of cuttings until it fully recovered. I may or may not start new cuttings of the F. boliviana Alba soon; I'm not sure where that ranks on the list of things that I need/want to propagate. However, that plant has done really well and should produce a steady crop of berries in the near future. Here's a photo of the plant from about 10 days ago: And here's a closeup of the berries on one inflorescence: I find it amusing how the berries get long, and then get fat. So mytime, maybe I should contact you when things start to root. As far as the berries, I might try one batch of seeds, but in general I don't have a use for them. I guess I could eat them... If anyone wants a berry for postage (then they can clean out the seeds) I can send one for postage. They can get a bit soft when ripe, and the berry may end up smushed. I'm guessing that's not a problem. Andrea, thanks for the propagation advice. I do enjoy trying to see how many cuttings I can get from limited material. I didn't realize the stems can be split like that. If the seeds are easy, maybe I'll try some. I generally don't like growing things from tiny seeds, especially if they are easy to root. However I've never tried Fuchsias. I see the Fuchsia forum has no exchange site, so I'll mention it here. I'm looking for the variegated F. procumbens, which I believe goes by the name 'Mary Miller'. In trade, I have a lot of things, but only a few Fuchsias and none of them propagated at the moment. The other Fuchsias I have are the regular procumbens, denticulata, 'First Success' (F. paniculata x F. splendens'), F. x baccillaris and of course F. boliviana Alba. I may have access to F. splendens as well; my old plant went to a friends house in the area. Perhaps I'll try start a F. procumbens thread when my new F. procumbens opens another flower and repeat the question about the variegated cultivar. I thought I'd mention that an interesting source I've found locally for small inexpensive plants is Lone Pine Gardens, which is a wholesaler for succulents and bonsai plants. Their little Fuchsias are just a few dollars, and are often found in the bonsai section of nurseries (in N. California at least). I got 'First Success', procumbens, and x bacillaris from them. The plant on the right, of course, is Fuchsia 'First Success', which seems to be a really nice hybrid.

I am new to this county and it is hard to buy fuchsias here at a good price there's one place called earthworks they have some nice plants but as i said they are not cheap

emilykemily- I like to plant flowers so that there is a succession of bloom starting in early spring. For example, right now. late winter- Helleborus orientalis blooming, in shades of purple and pink, and it self-sows. Pulmonaria starting to bloom, variegated foliage, colors from white, pink, rose, cobalt blue/pink, purple/orange, needs some shade and light summer water P. 'Excalibur' Early daffodils starting Muscari Snowdrops- Galium Spring- Daffodils Species tulips- tougher than hybrid tulips, smaller blooms Muscari Hyacinths Pulmonaria Anemone nemarosa- delightful patches of low foliage and myriad blooms, goes dormant in the dry season Hardy geraniums, G. Sanguinum makes clumps that look like bouquets, some trail, low water usage Bleeding hearts Perennial forget-me-nots, Brunnera, can self sow a little, need some shade, medium water usage. Biennials, which do great here since they grow during the rainy season and bloom before things dry out for summer- Lunaria- silver dollar plant, purple or white flowers, heart-shaped leaves, makes lovely dried arrangements, self-sows Forget-me-nots, blue/pink flowers, look great initially, but can sow invasively and have to be pulled out, I tolerate them but they look bad at end of season Columbines- can be grown from seed, self-sow, cute grey-green foliage, tall double I have looks like fairyland when blooming in beds, a chore to cut all the flower spikes off later when dry. Daphne odora, where drainage is very good, shade Irises- succession of bloom from dwarf to tall bearded to Siberian and Japanese Summer- Hardy Fuchsias- tougher ones have small flowers, like 'David' F. 'Edith' with some surrounding Columbine foliage Hardy geraniums G. 'Anne Thompson' Roses- check out rose forum, rosesant forum Phygelius, Cape Fuchsia, tall almost shrubby, tubular flowers that hummingbirds like Runner beans- have red flowers that hummingbirds like, do better than regular pole beans in our cooler summers, eat when not too big as they get fibrous Heucheras- many with lovely foliage, some with nice red flowers, low to average water usage. Hypericum frondosum, kalmianum- yellow flowers, low water usage, nice fall color, shrubby Hebes- check for hardiness, smaller leaves usually, nice rounded mounding plants Hebe pinguifolia 'Sutherlandii' Daphne "Summer Ice", long bloom, nice round shrub, low water, good drainage Heathers- some bloom in winter, various seasons, low mounds, low water usage Thyme- great on slopes, low water usage, flowers, culinary Variegated Marjoram- " Oregano- " Dwarf Greek Oregano is low, some can 2-3' Rosemary- " 3-5' Dahlias- can succeed left in the ground but do better lifted. Malvaceae- edible leaves, Rose of Sharon, Hollyhocks, Hardy hibiscus, etc. Sarcococca hookeriana 'Humillis'- very fragrant flowers, I don't quite remember when it blooms Favorite ground covers- Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, esp Massachusetts Symphytum grandiflorum- Ground cover comfrey, good in dry shade, banks, under trees in orchard, tougher than grass and weeds Geranium macrorrhizum- dry shade, banks Epimedium- choice for shade Vinca- major can be very invasive, taller; minor is low, variegated forms not as invasive and can light up dry shade, low water usage. Ceanothus gloriosa 'Point Reyes'- low, spreading, low water usage, blooms Campanula poscharskyana- trailing, heart-shaped leaves, blue flowers, fills in well in shade Well, just a smattering of things that have done well for me. I use tunnels to set out tomatoes, squash and cucumber early, and grow peppers in pots. It's not warm enough for melons, basically, though some try. I've seen large Moon and Stars watermelons at Fort Vancouver. Beans usually do very well, and greens like collards and kale, which can overwinter as well as turnips for early spring greens, if planted by July 15.