The Magic Sorcery of the Greenhouse Effect
a1an
last year
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a1an
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frantic and irritated over portable greenhouse :/
Comments (36)If you are going to have a greenhouse that you need to use in colder temps, please think about installing a simple geothermal system (dig down into the ground, insert some plastic tubing that will vent into the greenhouse) and let the temperature of the earth maintain stasis inside. You can also put any large water containers around the outside or in the center of the inside, painted black to collect more heat during the day. Extending and improving the function of your greenhouses will become a necessity in the coming years. Google "geothermal heat for greenhouses" - you'll get a zillion hits. While you're at it, Google "permaculture". You'll need that knowledge for the future as well. When this country reaches 9 billion population (we are at 7.5 now), we will top out our ability to feed everyone. You should know how to grow your own and hopefully have some left over for others....See MoreTrellis + 'Vivak' = MAGIC !
Comments (6)It comes here in NZ as a floppy sheet, which makes a Rolf Harris wobble board sound! Of course the trellis lattice will shade a little, but since it's the walls that are trellis/vivak this isn't really a problem, except in maybe very low angle winter sun. Many raw metal greenhouses can look too industrial in a Victorian home setting, & of course here in the down under sunshine may overheat too. My choice of Vivak/trellis was initially driven by the need to use a tight corner that no commercial greenhouse would fit into. Lighter plastic film was tried but aside from looking tatty it flapped annoyingly in wind & failed within a year due to UV, animals/kids fingers etc. I'm sure it'll be sold in Australia, perhaps at Bunnings on a roll ? Check an Oz. data site => www.laserlite.com.au/products/solidsheet/vivak.asp Here is a link that might be useful: Vivak technical data...See Morehelp with cooling greenhouse
Comments (13)Shade cloth comes in % values that tells you how much sunlight it blocks. We have 50%. It also comes in colors, you can even get striped shade cloth if you want your greenhouse to look circus-like. :) Aluminet shade cloth is a favorite - it is made of finely woven aluminum threads. Google 'greenhouse shade cloth' and you'll find lots of options. It's most effective on the outside, but some folks do put it on the inside. You'll want to be careful to not cover your vents, and to install it snugly so it doesn't flap around and scratch your GH panels. A misting system is easy to make. You need tubing, little misting nozzles, and all the fittings to set it up in whatever pattern you need in your GH. It is also recommended to use a filter so that hard water does not clog the misters or coat your GH with minerals. You also need a timer which is the hardest part to find. After making my initial versions with locally-available parts, last year I upgraded and bought better nozzles and a much better timer. It all came from here http://www.dripirrigation.com/index.php?cPath=39_67 This source was recommended to me here on this forum and I found that to be just what I was looking for! Setting up a misting system will take some fiddling and a few trips to the hardware store. My advice is to not wait until the hot weather arrives to begin this process, as it takes awhile to get it dialed. It's not hard to do though, and it's satisfying to stand under the mist and revel in your DIY skills. :) Lastly, I would not run fans in an empty greenhouse. Why use the energy? Just let the vents stay open. All that said, we are enjoying a perfectly cool summer here in MT so I have barely needed to use the fans and misters this summer. How nice! Here is a link that might be useful: Shade cloth store...See Moreorganic tomato magic
Comments (96)For Richard concerning pvc pipes for watering, here are 2 links. I suppose that his reference to a rock is for a cap on the pipe instead of a pvc cap. http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf19058273.tip.html http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-make-your-tomato-plant-bigger With respect to this thread and grooming tomatoes, it is just common sense, and even we geologists can figure it out. SOME grooming of tomatoes is beneficial as more energy is available for fruiting, but if too much is done then there is insufficient leaf area to produce vegetation and fruit growth. Also, removing some leaves and stems is in reality an injury to the plant and produces a reproductive response in it, which results in more flowering and fruiting. So groom judiciously, keep plants spaced sufficiently apart for adequate sunlight and water (pvc pipe?), prepare the soil well so roots can grow easily, and be sure to put seedlings as deep as possible for greatest root production. Now to the good stuff. Nutrition! A retired physician here in Tucker, GA has published in our local free rag his tomato "secrets" which he acquired from another gentleman in Buford. In one season from 10 plants his production was 2281 tomatoes weighing 752 pounds. He used hybrids (I will grow ONLY heirlooms) consisting of 1 Parks Whopper, 5 Beefmasters, 2 Sweet 100's, and 2 Better Boys. Of course the Sweets being a cherry upped the number count and lowered the average weight considerably (0.32 lbs), but accounting for that my guess is that the average non-cherry plant yield would be 100-140 tomatoes averaging a pound each. I'd be happy with that any day. This is what he does. He uses new soil every year, although I feel that this is optional, as the soil adjuncts should be sufficient after the first year. He digs holes 15X15 and fills with bagged topsoil mixed with potting soil and Natures Helper. I use just Natures helper and a little sandy loam I dig up from the woods (a former terraced farm) behind my townhome. With clay soils here the sand helps considerably. He then mixes in: a) handful of 10-10-10 b) handful of lime c) handful of Epsom Salt (critical, as tomatoes are magnesium hungry) d) 2 handfuls cow manure e) 2 tablespoons baking soda After planting he covers the soil with pine bark nuggets to help keep the soil moist. At 3 week intervals he adds around each plant 2 handfuls 10-10-10, a handful Epsom Salt, and 2 tablespoons baking soda. So after the first year of new soil and Natures Helper try just the a-e adjuncts and see what happens, especially if you do not wish to excavate many holes and have no place to put the resulting "used" soil. The method says that the soil is important, but I think that it is overemphasized after year one's conditioning. This is "Dr Dan's Tomato Recipe and Method" from the February 2010 issue of Up Close and Personal in Tucker, and has been reprinted each year since. Dr L. Dan Johnson was shared this method by the late Mr Ralph Pass of Buford, GA, a former patient of his. A golfing buddy of Dr Johnson's told him that "Thank God you do not grow watermelons!"...See Morecharles kidder
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