I have a book on bulbs here and it says that the most prolific of daffodils needs to be divided every five to six years. Some daffs are slower to increase, in which case you can also just divide them every decade or so. I grow Mount Hood, this is the second year they will bloom and already the flowers on each bulb have tripled and there are bulbils in sight as well. I might have to divide mine every four years... I guess it is best that you keep a journal for your daffs and monitor closely how much they increase each year. If you have trouble seeing how more new growth could come up in the limited space between this year's growth, that would be a sign that it is time to divide. I can't find the bit about when to divide these, but I gather all bulbs are best divided during dormancy, which would mean any time between the moment the leaves fall off and the moment the ground freezes, although I think earlier is better. I think that fall is a bad idea because by then, the plant may have grown more roots that reach deeper, and it will be that much harder to lift them, plus the new root growth would be wasted and it wouldn't have enough time to regenerate properly by next spring. But this is just my admittedly not perfect logic speaking. I would try to do it as soon as the leaves fall off. That way, you do it before new growth starts but after the plant is done producing for the current year. It would then be about to start using its gathered reserves to grow new roots, so your newly transplanted daff would be nicely nestled into place by the time spring comes.

You must have replanted baby bulbs. They should grow large enough to bloom next year. Did you amend the bed with organic matters and replenish it every fall & spring? Good luck. :-)

I have already dug my tulips as of the last week in May, after flowering but with no yellowing on the leaves at all. I left all the foliage attached which has now dried off and I am getting a good cure and have a three or four-fold increase in blooming size bulbs and a pile of dinks on top of it. My favorite are red Apeldoorns. These will keep nicely well into the fall; so do not worry about storing cured tulips - or daffodils - over the summer. As long as they stay dry you can store them in a corner of the garage just fine. (The Dutch do it yearly by the billions of bulbs...) This is a common way of handling tulips generally getting a two season bed by digging the tulip bulbs, curing them to store out of the ground over the summer after their bloom is done and replanting some other summer flowering plant, such as cannas, which are themselves dug up for winter storage and summer stored dormant tulips are replanted after frost in the fall for the next spring. Quite naturally the beds get re-fertilized and conditioned with every replant and generally also mulched. Some cut flower growers dig their tulips yearly and replant them in freshly worked soil in the fall, very often having surplus bulbs in the process, and a full summer bed for other plantings. I replant my tulips every year, actually about the same time as I put in my fall garlic. What that does is allow me to rework and refeed the beds. Used up nutrients is the most usual reason tulips decline or "run out". They quite naturally get redivided then too, which will also increase flower size and quality. I see no reason not to use a similar technique on daffodils. I use the old window screens in my front screen porch for curing all my bulbs, including garlic and onions, as well as tulips. Works well for potatoes, too. For daffodils as opposed to garlic and tulips an early planting for as long a fall rooting period as possible gives the best results. If your gifted daffodils are cured they also should hold until time to plant them later or as you wish. Dig, cure and store is my advice for your bulbs. Also spraying with something like Roundup is about the only sure way to reduce quack and creeping jenny, both of which are really hard-assed, hardy perennial weeds with extensive root systems. Creeping Jenny has documented roots growing as deep as 20', and every little bit of either will grow a new patch. Personally I would suggest scorched earth until fall for best eradication, BEFORE you till for the first time. Just get your tulips out before you spray anything. There is no safely organic or PC correct way I know to control either of these two weeds. BTW neither is native to North America, showing what accidental or indiscriminate spread of exotic species can do. No mulch at all will prevent quack and creeping jenny, unless it smothers everything, and even then the outcome is questionable, not that a mulch as part of the finished bed is not a good thing, but established plants of fully aggressive perennials like these two will come right through nearly all of them. It will pay you to kill as many of the established weeds as possible, since mulch later is much more effective on the new seedlings that are sure to follow.

My way is the same as Jay's and Diane's, except for new beds. I do use a rototiller in new beds. If all you ever do is apply mulch, compost, or even organic fertilizers, etc. as a 'side dressing' on the ground around your plants, those materials will be carried down into the soil over time. Rain carries some of the ingredients down into the ground, earthworms and other soil-dwelling critters do the rest. When you pull weeds, that action allows some of the upper mulch type materials to go down into the soil and the same thing happens when you use a trowel to plant things. If you never do anything but pile mulch up on the surface of the ground for the rest of your life, you'll still end up with great soil. I'll use our woodland as an example. We have very thick, dense red clay on all of our property. In a few cases, the clay is deeper down and there's a shallow layer of sand or silt on top of it. In most of the area, all we have is that red clay. In the woodland, though, we have about 8-10" of dark brownish-black, rich, humusy soil that is incredible. It has formed, of course, from the decomposition of leaves, wood, and even the bodies of insects and animals that die in the woods and decay there. No one (except, perhaps, the armadilloes or squirrels while digging) goes into the woods and rototills the organic matter into the clay subsoil every year, but over time the nutrients from that humusy soil work their way down into the clay too and even improve it. I do have a little Mantis cultivator that I sometimes like to use to work large amounts of organic matter into a vegetable bed that is being rennovated during the off season, but I know I shouldn't ever use it except when amending new soil. Rototilling or even heavy digging destroy the structure of the soil and neither one is especially good for it because they can lead to compaction. When earthworms and other soil dwellers, including all the various forms of microscopic life in the soil, tunnel through the soil, they leave little tunnel-like passageways that allow moisture, roots, and nutrients to move easily through the soil. These little passageways are an important part of soil structure, so the less we disturb our soil, the better it is. I used to think I had to rototill every bed before planting every year because that's what we did when I was growing up. It has taken me a long time to come to the realization that the less I disturb already-amended soil, the better for it. Nowadays, I try to focus on mulching, mulching, mulching. I bet I add at least 12" of mulch to each garden bed each year (over the course of the season, not all in one day)because I use a lot of ingredients like grass clippings from our lawn, old spoiled hay or straw, and chopped/shredded leaves and they break down and decompose very quickly, feeding the soil in the process. I'd be surprised if the cow manure burnt your bulbs' foliage, especially if you were using standard bagged cow manure that was not labeled "100% Cow Manure". Most bagged cow manure sold nowadays (except the Black Kow brand) is not 100% manure and is, instead, lots of filler, and the filler usually is very poor quality black clay. Most bagged cow manure has "up to 10% manure" so you probably couldn't burn plants with it if you tried. I've added large amounts of Black Kow 100% manure with no fillers to my garden beds and never have had it burn plants. If 100% cow manure won't burn plants, I don't think 10% would. Whatever happened to your plants, I don't think it was the fault of the manure. I've never added really fresh "local" manure to my beds because it has to be composted first in order to kill all the weed seeds and by the time it is composted there's nothing in it that would harm plants. However, because of all the issues with herbicide contamination, I don't use local manure any more because the ranchers here routinely use purchased hay to supplement their own pasture forage, and there's no telling what herbicides might have been sprayed on those purchased bales of hay when it was grown. If I used manure (any manure) and had issues develop after that, I'd be more likely to suspect herbicide contamination than to blame the manure itself. If your beds need nutrition now, I'd top dress the soil with a good organic fertilizer, and pile mulch on top of it so that rain (if it ever rains again) and irrigation water will carry the materials into the ground. If you don't mulch on top of the top-dressed fertilizers, they can be washed away by heavy rainfall or irrigation. You can, of course, use a hand trowel to work the organic matter deeper into the soil, but it is a lot of unnecessary work because the organic matter will get worked in over time. I just top dressed my onion beds this past week and will mulch them as soon as the wind stops blowing 25-40 mph which probably won't be until Tuesday. I wish I already had mulched them, but you have to work with the weather you have, and this windy weather is making it hard to get things done outside. If I tried to mulch yesterday, today, or even tomorrow, my mulch would end up blowing into another state. Dawn