Worried about quality of tiling job
amylparks
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Thinking about tackling tile job - need your help!
Comments (15)You can use unmodified or modified for the seams. When putting down the plywood, screw it to just the planks, not the joists. And prior to that, make sure your plank decking is secure, no loose nails, etc. Home Depot carries Custom thinsets, look for CustomBlend which is unmodified or also referred to as a "dryset". The gray is a couple dollars cheaper than the white thinset and is perfect for that application. Their modifieds are VersaBond, which is lightly modified, and FlexBond, which is highly modified. Or you can add a liquid latex admix to CustomBlend in place of some of the water to modify it yourself. For setting the tile I'd recommend using the FlexBond and if using a light grout then use the white FlexBond. If a dark grout, you can use the gray FlexBond. If you can't find unmodified anywhere fior between the ply and the cement board, no worries, you can use a modified thinset. It's just that all you're using it for is a void-filler and not for bonding strength, that's why we use the unmodified, to save money....See MoreWhat I worried about needlessly and should have worried about mor
Comments (18)Okay, off topic, Sally, please, please do a new post, for your reveal. I do enjoy all the white kitchens but for many reasons did not do one myself; we non-Somethin's Gotta Give remodelers need more inspiration photos! Was that Costa by the way? It's gorgeous! On topic: When one measurement changed, I did not think through how that impacted the rest of the plan. Despite research on the web and the store, when I received my microwave trim kit, the cabinet needed to get deeper than planned. I figured out pretty last minute that we now had a tiny unacceptable walkway and we moved the fridge over. We were so busy congratulating ourselves on our narrow escape, but the ride wasn't over. I didn't think about the 3 upper spacious cupboards that would now be microscopic when installed. The cabinet maker cut me a pretty good deal to redo that set with fewer but bigger doors. He definitely went above and beyond, and given what everyone else has posted about contractors, I am so very grateful that it got corrected as it did. Another one I did not think about soon enough was making a Ceiling and Texturing Plan. This is not the same as a Lighting plan, although lighting obviously figures into the equation. We did parts (not all) of this project DIY. We hadn't realized some areas that we needed to mud better because they would not be covered by tile or cabinet (ie above the window) and he had to add some hot mud last minute. Given the contractor we got (a personal rec), that was only a small upcharge. Also, be aware that once your texturing is underway, the room is sealed off. You can't supervise unless you are sealed in too. I would send in a big map or go over it with blue tape that you remind him to pull off before he starts that area. Like another poster, I also did not figure out that I wanted my ceiling light hung from a different position. I will not retexture, my husband is adamant that I find a table fixture that can be hung to correct position by a chain and a hook. It is what it is. The height and exact placement of the hood was not ideal. I was adamant that it be within the manufacturer's specs so that it worked properly. However, there were several inches of leeway within those guidelines. Have everyone pretend to be cooking and see what they think. It should have been higher to avoid my husband bumping his head. He is learning. But that was definitely a mistake....See MoreWorried about quality of work on bathtub and drywall
Comments (10)The structure is new. We had him build an addition on to our house and add this bathroom. I'm pretty sure I know why the surround is out of whack from the studs, in the contract we specified that he add backing to the tub structure to allow us to add grab bars in the future and to have something to screw the shower door into so it is not just attached to the fiberglass. I expected him to add a stud on each side where the shower door would attach so he could screw into that, and I expected he would glue/adhere plywood on to the back of the fiberglass tub surround before he installed it to attach the grab bars according to manufacturer instructions. He did neither of those, he screwed a piece of plywood between the studs and the tub to attach those, which is moving the tub flange away from the wall by that thickness. So now that that is all there, is there a way for this to be finished and not look like crap? I wanted to get opinions before I discussed it with the contractor because we have complained several times about the quality of his work and I want to know if this is fixable before I bring it up to him....See MoreBroken tile installed in shower - worried about water damage later.
Comments (7)Hi Joseph! I did a to scale size model of both walls (back with window and niche walls) in Photoshop. Following the diagram meant he would have had to shorten every tile in the first row and the top row - which he did not do. The Dremel tool is a good idea but I'm having him redo the niche like the photo on the box - it will do away with the little sliver but it won't line up exactly. With the current layout there will be another sliver about an inch long over the window. The only way this can be remedied is by taking out all of the tile and starting with a shorter bottom row. Do you think that one inch pieces over the window will hurt anything? - its boxed in with a header. I can live with it if it will be okay. Thanks!...See Moreamylparks
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