Engineered wood sample is warped
sheila0
last year
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Wood or engineered wood?
Comments (6)The tile would have to be removed to do a proper job. You didn't say what your sub floor is...whether it is wood or concrete. That would influence what material you would use for flooring. I would not put a wood product, engineered or real solid wood, over concrete. We just built a log home and had a top notch craftsman install true heart pine that was milled locally and kiln dried. The subfloor is Advantec and we have 15 pound tar paper between the sub floor and the heart pine. This will prevent any outside moisture from getting underneath the wood...we have an old fashioned type of pier foundation since we wanted to build a home authentic to the original homes built in our area. The floor is absolutely gorgeous. It is extremely tight, and no, we don't have any cupping. I do, however, know several people who have engineered wood, and factory finished hardwood floors. They have all had cupping problems seasonally. We looked at flooring until we were pretty sick of it all. The quality of real wood cannot be outdone by any made made product, but it will involve more labor initially. We also purchased real tung oil, cut it 50/50 with citrus solvent, and have a beautiful,all natural, waterproof, and easy to repair finish. It doesn't matter how much any manufacturer or salesperson tries to tell you engineered wood is "real" wood. If your interpretation of real wood is what you find with a board cut from a tree, it isn't. It contains real wood and that is why they can say that it is. It is also full of resins, and many of the engineered products have a very thin finished surface. Look at the engineered boards from the side. Pick up a scrap board from a sawmill (your choice of wood) and then take it with you to the stores and look at everything side by side. Your answer will come to you. Finding someone who knows how to work with real wood and not something out of a box can be a challenge though. We searched for a few months and found someone from out of town. He is an expert with reclaimed wood floors, so we got lucky. Up until then I can't tell you how many flooring people wanted to glue my wood down. I sent them right on down the driveway. We now have a gorgeous floor with no cupping, no squeaking, and tight as a drum. No matter what you go with, take your time and look for someone who knows what they are doing....See MoreNo-name engineered wood floors
Comments (1)I think you came up with some good reasons. The flooring industry has changed significantly in the yr or so since I wrote that. Almost every company is bringing in wood. I see palletts and pallets of wood that I have no idea how to evaluate. When I was repPing I was offered to sell some 'no name' wood. Some used a formaldahyde glue, but for 10 cents more they could use a different formula. Some things you just don't know. Most don't even mention what the finish is or if they use aluminum oxide. Try to find out how the dealer will back your purchase if there is a problem. I think looking at milling and laying out a box before you buy it sound advice and if you like what you see, go for it. I had lunch with my former distributor sales manager last week. Some of the issues they have had with no name wood, is poor finish, no stain in the micro bevel, warped boards. Most of those issues would be apparent before installation so I think its sound advice to look before you install....See MoreEngineered Wood Flooring warping question
Comments (25)As the person formerly known as Cancork, I'll answer as best as I can. The two layers is a variation on a theme. What it does is reduce the amount of ADHESIVE used in manufacturing. They are still using a multiple direction underlayer....without adding extra layers. They core is made up of wood that is laid side by side in different directions. Kind of like a basket weave or like parquet floor blocks. The grains are running in different directions yet only one layer has been used. Less glue = better VOC profile. The UV cured urethane finish is a "ho-hum" type of finish. Nothing exciting. Just an average finish. The 6mm thick hardwood wear layer is where the money is! The urethane finish + 6mm wear layer means this floor is GUARANTEED to be "refinished" at least twice...maybe even three times. So....they have reduced costs by using a single layer of wood for the core. They have reduced costs by using less adhesive to make the floor. They have reduced costs by using a rather "regular" UV urethane finish. They have ADDED value by working with a THICK wear layer. And all the VALUE is in the wear layer! So....save, save, save so that you can add VALUE with the expensive 6mm wear layer. It is definitely a product I would take a strong look at if I were to work with an engineered hardwood. That being said, the urethane finish isn't going to give the scratch resistance that many people demand. It isn't that type of finish. It is going to scratch....because that is what it is designed to do. I don't care about scratches....I used to sell/live with cork. Cork scratches like the dickens. But I DON'T CARE! That's me. You are you. Only you can decide where to put your emphasis. Personally, this looks to have a great presentation....because the MONEY is in the 6mm wear layer! That's worth it's weight in gold! That is your "money shot"....See MoreSolid wood, engineered wood flooring , LVT?
Comments (9)I had tile in my last home and moved to a home with carpet everywhere but the kitchen (yes, even the bathrooms had carpet (yuk)). After 20 years my joints could not withstand the impact of living on tile floors. Choices were to replace the carpet with Carpet - It is soft and quiet. It gets dirty and is hard to get clean. Muddy paws from an active puppy while delandscaping the yard was a nightmare. Hardwood - much more expensive - harder than tile or LVT to maintain, would require purchase of area carpets to protect. LVT - cost efficient - low maintenance, limited lifespan (20 years ish) I'm 59 - 20 years I won't be able to see what it looks like. Can add area carpets for aesthetics, but can eliminate the trip hazards of area carpets as I age in place. Engineered hardwood seemed to have the same cons as hardwood, but cannot be refinished over and over again - thin layer of wood. I decided to replace the carpet with LVT, I am doing one room at a time as I renovate, but am very happy with my choice. I bought Downs H20 from Cloister's Flooring America. It is waterproof and is manufactured by Coretech for the CCA Family of flooring companies. Same product, different name at each company website. Different price at each store (store not company level, two different Flooring America franchises had 2 different prices). Difference from highest price to lowest price was a difference of $2.00 per sq ft - I was covering 2000 sf, so this was a substantial savings. I loved the franchise I picked - Cloister's Flooring America. Other franchises really pushed the professional install - Cloister's seems to cater to the DYI folks (Owned by a Mennonite family). For $75.00 they send one of their installers out for 2 hours to teach you how to lay the flooring and they will rent you a tool kits that has everything you need to lay your floors. I bought one box of each of two colors and could exchange the one I didn't pick when placing my full order. I also got an additional $500 off because I hadn't placed my order yet and they called because they were having an anniversary sale. I hadn't called because I had a heart attack and was in the hospital when I got the call. They gave me the $500 off and told me I could call when I was home and feeling up to ordering even though the sale was just for the week. They even helped me with the layout plan. Told me to use graph paper and tracing paper. I drew out my floor plan on graph paper and traced the outline of the flooring pattern on the tracing paper. You place the tracing paper over the floor plan and move it around until you have a placement that doesn't leave you with little 2" strips anywhere. You do have to be exacting in your measurement and drawing of the floor plan and lay out enough pieces to get exact measurements for your tracing. I didn't find this method on the internet anywhere - most have you plan from the center of the room, but this worked out really well for me....See Moresheila0
last yearlast modified: last year
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