I always use an extender with Aura. It gives you more time before drying. If you're painting a bathroom, research "surfactant leaching." This happens when the paint in a bathroom isn't fully cured, and you use the shower. Google photos of surfactant leaching. Most paint stores will say latex cures in a few days, but I had this problem in two homes and did extensive research. You get ugly drips down the walls, and they are yellow or brown. You can wash it off, but it comes back. Now, when I paint a bathroom, I wait 30 days before using the shower. That may be overkill, and if you only have one shower, that would not be possible.

Glad it worked out for you Jenni! Light is the most important factor in how we perceive color, and off-whites are very difficult to get right. Most of them are tints of a hue (green, blue, red, orange, yellow, purple), which means they are created by adding white to the hue until the underlying color is almost imperceptible. (Most off-whites, by the way are created from the yellow or yellow/green colorway.) That color, or its complement (the opposite on the color wheel) can become very apparent when the light changes. It can be frustrating at first, but usually becomes less noticeable as you finish decorating the room. You can alter the interior lighting to achieve the effect you'd like, but outside lighting is what it is. If you have lots of green trees, a blue pool, or a very sunny day, the color can change. But that's just life!

I've had to solve a similar problem. I have Sherwin WIlliams Extra White on all my trim in my bedroom but my floors are a mid toned (warm) wood and my bed is yellow poplar. I decided to go with Incredible White after lots of swatches & thinking. It's perfect. There's enough contrast that the wall color & trim are clearly different colors but it's also "white." And to me it's the perfect one to straddle the warm/cool divide. I tried Incredible white, Shoji White, Aesthetic White & Eider White. Shoji was a little too yellow, Aesthetic too beige, & Eider was too blue in my lighting. I would think about your cabinets as being "trim" and not try to do a 100% match with the wall color. I think incredible white would look lovely as a bright "white" backdrop for your larger living space. Good luck! I can't wait to follow along & see what you do! These 2 blog posts were insanely helpful in trying to narrow down the colors. I 'chose' SW because my painter prefers them. The closest BM color (per easyrgb.com) is Silver Satin. https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/the-best-off-white-neutral-paint-colours-undertones-and-more/ https://www.rughdesign.com/2018/05/08/the-best-white-paint-colors-undertones-explained/

if I am seeing yellow or seeing more gray and the more gray the more blue or green the color appears. ..... to you. That's the actual color appearance according to your color acuity which is defined by the context your viewing the color and the lighting where YOU are. Some people would describe how those colors actually look to them the same as you - they would agree. But some won't. Because they're viewing the colors in a different context and lighting than you. For example, comparing Extra White or Rhinestone to Lily White makes it easy to see why they belong to the Green-Yellow and Green hue families respectively. In context of a color that is factually blue, they are unlikely to look blue. We have to leave room for how other people see color in their actual space - which is different from you. Acknowledging that actual color perception is different from factual color, not only leaves room for everyone's perception of color but it also provides an elastic framework to manage the fact that color appearance is not static. How Jennifer sees color is actual color. It's a real. A completely validate-able and worthy of acknowledgement thing. LCh is the factual color framework we use to manage the diversity in color acuity person to person, context to context, lighting scenario to lighting scenario.