Horrible spot for dryer exhaust. Any suggestions?
Whitney Danielle
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horrible black spot - what would you do?
Comments (4)I am tempted to just weed-wack the whole bed down to 6" and then keep it clear from there to see if it helps? I am so upset - I think I am loosing my iris! ==>>> liquifying.. a diseased plant.. and spreading the spores all over the entirity might not be the best idea.. dont you think .. easy.. but not best .. when is the last time you thinned the heard.. and opened it all up for air flow??? improving the soil.. and just cleaned up the whole mess??? iris.. unlike a lot of perennials.. are not a plant and forget it forever type plant ... [some of the older ones are .. but not all] if you decide to do something.. do it right.. not easy ... one might suggest you take an small isolated area.. dig it all .. cut the leaves back.. replant about half of each of what you take out .. i dont know if bleaching or something might help ... and see if that area recovers enough.. to invest in doing the rest ... with this years weird heatwave.. in march in MI [whats that all about .. 80 plus degrees] .. and repeated frosts and FREEZES ... the iris are not having a peak year .. and the leaves look horrible.. you might want to post a pic.. and let these sperts .. actually see what is going on ... ken...See MoreProtective cover on dryer exhaust vent?
Comments (8)Who cares what the builder thinks. This is a TERRIBLE Install and a very poor choice of venting location. It would violate code here. Any roof vent of hot emissions (furnace, dryer, etc.) that is through a roof must be at least four feet above the roof line AND four feet away from any portion of the roof that is the same height or higher. A proper vent cap should be used such as this: Or this: What is on there now looks like a standard roof vent. That is designed for passive venting of the attic space, not a forced air exhaust like a dryer. The problem now is that they cut the vent pipe very short so a proper vent cap may not fit. A dryer vent should have no screen (they catch lint). It should have a self closing flap or hinged door that opens when the dryer blower comes on. When the dryer shuts off it should fully close to keep critters, insects and the elements (rain, etc) out of the vent pipe. You will also also need to crawl up on the roof at least once or twice per year and check for clogged lint. You will also need to look in the attic several times per year to make sure the vent pipe has not come loose. If they wont fix it I would find a Building inspector and ask if that is code. I highly doubt it. Where is the dryer located? If it is in a closet or a small room then it may not have enough makeup air for what it is tying to push out the vent. If it is in a closet, leave the door open. If it is in a small room leave the door open or open a window in the room if it has one. If this prices the drying time then you need to supply more makeup air to the location where the dryer is installed. You would do better with a condenser or heat pump dryer that is ventless than that setup. Here is a Charleston home inspector who discusses this very topic: http://www.summerville-home-inspector.com/content/charleston-home-inspector-discusses-dryer-vents...See MoreElectric Dryer - Timer Dead Spots
Comments (9)Yes, check the timer knob. Not unusual that a crack develops where it attaches to the timer shaft. Is there any evidence that the knob is off-kilter from where it should register? That being said, it's also not unusual that mechanical timers go bad nowadays. They're perceived as being more reliable than electronics but that's not so much the case any longer. Be sure to check the model number closely. There should be an engineering change/revision digit (0, 1, or 2) after the W, which can be relevant to correct part numbers. The timer may (or may not) be different among the revisions....See MoreLG Dryer / Exhaust vent not working
Comments (9)Photos of what you have would be helpful. Go outside while the dryer is running and check for strong airflow at the exhaust hood. There's a problem, obviously, if insufficient or no airflow. It should have force near-like a hairdryer set at its highest speed. Proper airflow to move out the evaporating moisture is as important, if not moreso, as heat in the clothes-drying process. Insufficient airflow also makes the heating element run too hot which a) triggers overheat thermostats to shut the heat off prematurely which increases drying time and energy usage, and b) can reduce the service life of the element due to the additional thermal stress. The 4" ducting connecting the dryer to the exhaust port on the wall should be as short and straight as possible. Not unusual it's longer than ideal to provide working-room when installing the machine, which results in excessive bends or obstructive kinks and crushing when the dryer is moved into position. The ducting from the wall to outside ideally should be 4" solid-flue, not flexible hose....See MoreD M PNW
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