The roller type has to have some rattle or there would be too much friction on the wheel (it needs clearance on one side of the wheel). Also, since the doors are only supported on one side (and are very light) that flimsy feel is going to be there, for the most part. Best advice is to make sure everything is level and plumb (including making sure the floor bracket is plumb front to back). It sometimes helps to put a pair of knobs or handles on the door instead of just the one provided. Alternatively, maybe you would prefer a pair of opposing doors, such as separating those bifolds and installing each on it's own set of hinges? It's been done before. Not too difficult if both sides are plumb. If you have drywall on the sides, then first install a jamb set on both sides and top, then install doors (Stanley had some surface mount hinges that will do the trick), then door stops around (or at least at the top), and finally ball catches at the top. No more rattle!

So here's the completed project with the Centor Blinds. Check out the install video at their website and realize that the casing that houses the blind assembly sticks out from the door unit a good 4-6" and looks shady onside- wish I'd taken a photo of that before having the left and right sheetrock furred out to make the screen flush with the interior walls. The mechanism slides well, but once in awhile makes a large "clunk" about midway that seems like it isn't lined-up straight on the reel-out of the screen side. I emailed Centor for care instructions, as I have a Phantom Screen on another french door that I silicone regularly, and they never replied. The only care instructions I could find were to keep the tracks clean. You see where the blind meets the screen, and there is a full-length magnetic pliable stip attached to make the connection between the two. It is so magnetic (most likely due to surface area of magnetic material, that t it is a STRONG two-handed separation to open the gap. I'm going to run some quality Scotch 32+ electrical tape at intervals to see if I can make separation more manageable. We have "lake" or "rice" flies that hatch at different intervals of the summer, and if they are on your screen or blind, they get crushed-into the material, and need to be removed via tooth-brush, etc. I'd do it again, but I'd check other brands to see if there is a comparable option that is US instead of Overseas-based.

kudzu, there are no jambs. The pivot base is screwed right into the top and bottom of the door opening on the problem door; thus into the wood under the drywall at the top, and into the wood floor at the bottom. I just went and checked it. The base is secure top and bottom. It's the metal pivot going into the door that is wobbling. The door starts tilting at the top, where it starts hitting the side of the door opening at the top. When the people installing the doors installed them, I guess they didn't know that a solid door needed more. I ordered the doors custom made so I could stain them to match my kitchen, and they did say they'd never seen anything like them. Last time he replaced them, my husband just went to Menard's and bought them, so I don't know if they were labeled for load capacity. Said if these failed, we were out of options. That's got to be it. Thank you so much for telling me about this! These are just too flimsy for the load of the solid wood oak door we bought. The door is tilting again. What kind of load capacity should I be looking for? Should I just weigh the door when we take it off? Can you get a variety of ones with different loads at a common home improvement store, or is this something I will need to order?

I would probably construct a hard valance right at the ceiling, and paint it the wall color, and behind it I would put a ceiling mounted single piece solar material roller shade closest to the glass but clearing any hardware, and a ceiling mounted track or traverse rod to mount decorative panels on. Those I might stack asymmetrically to the right so they did not interfere with operable doors, depending upon the fabric. The shade would be hidden when not in use and the panels would be optional or could be taken down occasionally without the problem of having exposed hardware there.