Hello, we have a small sunroom ( western side of the house) has knotty pine wood on the walls, ceiling and up into the cut out Skylight areas. The area up in the sky light reflected drip like black water marks on it so we decided to paint the ceiling (had the skylights replaced three months ago and we know the Knotty Pine is in fine shape otherwise). We decided to paint the ceiling, including up in the recessed sky light areas. started with the Bin primer, put two coats, then started to see an Amber-colored film coming through. Unfortunately the painter then added two coats of a latex paint. The amber color is still coming through. I'm wondering if it's old sap that which from the heat of the sun coming through the skylights. Suggestions on how I tackle this project at this point considering we have two layers of den and two layers of latex paint and the amber color is coming through just like we simply did a white wash.

Danielleg- I LOVE that you did the ceiling stained! That is going to be a fabulous kitchen. Novice - "They are .75 inch in depth which is the same as my mouldings but he says he can cut them down so they are only .5" in depth. Were your boards pre-primed? We are looking at the finger jointed pre-primed boards by Windsor One." Being a DIYer and having the thought myself, I am a little confused how he can cut it down to .5". I mean I guess he can plane every board down, but it needs to lap to be shiplap, you would either be planing off the overlap or the underlap. If the boards expand or contract in the humidity wont you risk seeing the drywall underneath if the laps are not there? Or is he planing off .12" from both the over and underlaps and leaving a very thin, weak piece. And then the follow up thought, how much is he charging you for that simple .25", because that seems like a lot of work, it may be cheaper to get all new door and window molding. Also, just from personal experience, I stay away from finger jointed. I used to work for a furniture manufacturer and we had huge issues with finger joints cracking and separating after 4 or 5 years. You can sometimes get OK quaility, but if there is a board option I always take it. And in this case the board option at HD and Lowes is so cheap I can not see how finger joints could possibly be cheaper. As far as pre-primed, I have never bought anything pre-primed and I am sure your builder knows better but just in case I will pass my major boo boo on to you so you don't make it. If you prime yourself and are working with knotted wood like pine, always prime the knots with a primer like BIN that is made for knots, especially if you are painting a light color like white. I learned this one the hard way on my nice bright white bathroom's, pine beadboard. I just finished re-priming and painting the entire thing last week. It looks great for about a year then the knots bleed through ;-(

Hi Kim, apologies for not responding sooner. You most likely found the answers but I would like to respond. Contact with water will cause both products to swell. The amount of water/moisture exposure will determine the extent of damage. Hope you don't ever run into a situation where this is tested! There are moisture resistant (MR) interior MDF mouldings available. As for the weight, if the MDF is the same width and thickness as the paint-grade wood plank, the materials should be similar in weight. There are a few interior MDF products on the market, some are lighter than others. Your builder most likely has a preference.

I have 22 foot ceilings in my great room, and used 8 inch shiplap. I will NEVER use someone like Mark Bischak as my architect -- I don't pay for arrogant condescension. My father, who is 93, was raised in a house with shiplap walls -- his father covered them over with the latest new thing (plaster) in the 1920's, which lasted 20 years. The Old Place, as the house was called even then, was built by my father's grandparents, who were adults when the Civil War started. Shiplap is not new -- it keeps being uncovered in old houses everywhere -- and obviously as styles change it can be covered and uncovered to suit, as it is a structural part of the house! It isn't like those lovely fieldstone colonial homes in New Jersey which were covered in stucco in the 1850's and now have to be painstakingly chipped away at, one inch at a time. Here in the south, high ceilings helps the heat rise, and shiplap swells and contracts (breaths) with the humidity, making the house very much a living thing. Go for it, Kaye! But keep it all one size..