myboys1 and tonimduffy, what did each of you wind up doing? I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping you're still getting notifications. We have the same issue, except that instead of a sliding door, our cabinet is an end run that ends at the opening to the kitchen. We don't have any room to play with, and I don't want the countertop overhang on the side of the cabinet to jut out into the opening. This is an area that I won't use for cooking, as it's only a 12 inch wide base cabinet to the right of my refrigerator - it'll just be a "drop zone" for mail, keys, charging cell phones, etc. We're doing a quartz countertop with an eased edge, and the side of the cabinet will be finished. I'd love to know what you did and see photos if you don't mind sharing them. Thanks!

@mudworm, I've never seen any numbers on what overhang soapstone can handle without support. Because it is softer than granite, I'd guess that it wouldn't handle as much - but there are different kinds of strengths so I could be wrong. Maybe you could put up a post with a title like "How much support for a soapstone overhang?" Something to get the folks who know soapstone better to comment. You wouldn't wand to do it without a subtop and have it crack - especially if it fell on someones foot. You might think of it as a sub-top rather than a rough top. You want a finished surface because it will be visible. It could be plywood with a 1/4 round molding along the edge painted to match the wall. Or wood veneer to match your cabinets. @natal - the raw granite for our island cost over $2000 - that's not counting the fab. Looking around on the web, piece of cherry veneer cabinet grade 3/4" plywood, 4 x 8 is less than $200. I'm sorry that I didn't think of it at the time. It's true that isn't a big deal to not have that touch, but it would have been worth the small additional cost to me.

Here are a some pics and my dilemma. Keep in mind this is my old fridge...new one comes today! Here is how we ended up with this: I have never had an enclosed fridge so didn't think about the peninsula dying into panels or how deep panels were going to be. I "semi" designed the new footprint and took it to Lowe's where the KD took over. (yes---I know......) Bought Schuler plywood with maple fronts cabinets. Although the kitchen designer had the model number of the fridge we were buying, which is a full-size, she designed the kitchen with 24" deep panels. She knew I was trying to have the look of an enclosed fridge. Being that I've never had an enclosed fridge, it was something I just didn't think of until the install started. Evidently she put a counter-depth in the design program because the elevation sketches she gave me showed an enclosed fridge. "Luckily" the panels actually came in wrong and were cut at only 23" for some strange reason and the installer caught it right away when looking over everything. Otherwise he probably would have installed them and I would be stuck. So called Lowe's to reorder the panels and somehow in all this it suddenly dawned on me that a full size fridge was going to be deeper and require deeper panels. I thought "no problem! Yay I can order them at 30!" By this time the KD had quit her job due to the pandemic. The other KD didn't know what was going on so we called in the Schuler rep. She was the one who immediately told me that those 30" panels would be sticking out in front of the peninsula. She asked if we could move the peninsula forward since the other side is an overhang for seating, but we couldn't since it would bottleneck the entrance into the kitchen down to under 36" and getting rid of an existing bottleneck was one of the reasons for the re-design to start with. So we had a dilemma. We cannot go down to a counter depth fridge which was the other option. What I decided was to split the difference and order 27" refrigerator panels. The fridge without doors is 29.5" so I will have about 3" of the side of the fridge sticking out which I don't like, but while I want my kitchen to look beautiful, I value the functionality too. The old fridge that you see in the pic sticks out a total of 32" The new fridge will stick out 34 with doors but without handles (4.5" of that is doors that would stick out anyway) Here's the really complicated part....we will be installing decorative panels on the end of the fridge as we have them on all the cabinets. This is how you enter the kitchen and I don't want that big blank space there next to the peninsula. The panels should be installed with just 1/4" reveal. I posted a photo below of how the panels look that are already installed on the side of the pantry that adjoins to a 17" high window seat. Luckily those face the opposite way from the fridge panels so you will never see both at the same time. I also posted photos of us holding up panels on the side of the fridge (they are NOT the right size panels...we have to order those still---we just used these to look at the right edge as to how wide to make the panels.) Also keep in mind we can remove the quartz backsplash piece if that would look better. That was not originally planned...the panels were going to sit directly on top of the countertop. So do we order the panels with just the 1/4" reveal to match the panels in the rest of the kitchen? Or, as the Schuler rep recommended, order the panels so they are the same width with the countertop, leaving about 1 3/4" reveal on the right side, but then your eye follows the countertop all the way up. I asked the countertop templater guy if I should just lengthen the overhang on the kitchen side of the peninsula to 2.5" to bring it out to within 1/4" of the fridge panel but he said no....I'm now thinking I should have insisted on it. Especially since we have full overlay cabinets that already make the overlay look very small since the 1.5" planned overhang is measured from the box, not the front of the drawers. Note how small the overhang looks to the drawers. And then of course, they had templated for a 1.5" overhang and I only got 1.25" UGH! Every quarter inch there would have made the reveal on the side of the fridge less. Suggestions appreciated! I'm hoping that I will eventually make peace in my mind with this issue and won't notice it but it is driving me crazy right now. I think of all the things that screwed up just because of this one error by the KD that I didn't catch and I am beating myself up for it!

Our peninsula has a curved overhang which measures 4” at each end and 10” in the center of the arc. I understand that the recommendation for an overhang which allows for seating is at least 10-12”. My husband and I, of average height, are quite comfortable eating almost every meal at the peninsula. Perhaps, with a larger overhang, one could position the counter stools closer in, but we’re fine as it is. Can you take a board and position it 8” out from a countertop to simulate the overhang? Then test out sitting there. Good luck with your project.