Glad I stopped by the forum, I didn't know there were questions for me. I have another bathroom remodel in my future, so I'm sure I'll be back for lots of advice. Here are more details as requested: Paint Color: Benjamin Moore Gray Wisp. If you can't get Ben Moore, I noticed last week that Behr has a color "silver sage" that is a very close match. And just about the same as the RH Silver Sage...can they do that? Grout Color: Laticrete Silver Shadow *Special order from Lowes. If you're painting a blue/green/gray color, I highly recommend this grout, it's gray with blue/green undertones. Subway Tile: Lowes. I think Interceramic brand. Beaded accent tile, also from Lowes. Shower Fixtures: American Standard Williamsburg tub filler and faucet handle. Kohler 30 polished chrome slide bar with Bancroft trim kit. Kohler Bancroft supply elbow Kohler Bancroft Hand Shower, polished chrome. Not Pictured, I also installed the Restoration Hardware Vintage glass shelf in the shower, on the wall opposite the showerhead. I absolutely love it! I know the niches are also popular (may do that in my next bathroom), but I'm glad I went with the glass shelf in this shower, and it was very easy to install. Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully I'll be back on the forum with questions of my own when I finally get around to tackling my second bathroom remodel!

Thanks for the response. The overall plan is to replace the existing one-piece fiberglass shower/tub combo with a solid surface shower, and to do this with as minimal damage to the remainder of the bathroom. Step 1 is demo, which is what I am doing now. Step 2 is rough in plumbing, which will be done by a licensed plumber. Step 3: The solid surface fabricator will measure for and install a solid surface pan. Step 4 is to install the solid surface substrate and any necessary blocking. I was going to hire this out as well, but am leaning to perform this portion myself. I am leaning toward Densshield in this application with additional water-proofing at the corners and nail-heads. Step 5 is to repair and mate the drywall with the solid surface substrate. Step 6 is for the solid surface fabricator to install the shower walls. The walls in question are interior residential walls, so no special fire-proofing should be required. The drywall in question, which is actually green-board, is outside of the shower area and butted up against the fiberglass enclosure. In some of the videos I saw, they tried to keep the cutout confined to just outside of the fiberglass lip. In my case, in doing so, on one side the drywall is no longer attached to the stud. In addition, it would seem that I would need some room the tape the joint so having it close to the new shower enclosure would not be a good idea. I will try to get some pictures later on this evening.

@thisisnotadrill We had the bathroom stripped to the studs, so we installed a 2x6" notched into the framing (note this was not a load bearing wall) the full length of the vanity. We reinforced the inside of the vanity boxes with large L-brackets and screwed those into the 2x6" (behind the drywall at this point). If you can, it's undoubtedly better to buy a vanity made for wall mounting but we made it work and it's very sturdy. Good luck!

Hi @turtlexings24, Thanks for the compliment. I am very happy with my GC. Folks on here probably won't think it was wise but...It was me. I GC'd and designed our bath renovation after striking out with about a dozen others. It was stressful but nothing I couldn't handle. Gannt charts, spreadsheets, and research kept things organized. My job is flexible enough to allow me to wfh and adjust my schedule as needed so I was here for every subcontractor and inspector. We did hire an advisor/project manager who connected us with all the subcontractors we needed, Home Improvement Partners. Troy was great and saved us a ton of time hunting for all the individual professionals we needed.