Hi: my contractor just told me today that 1/8 is a standard distance. I like that distance, aesthetically. I've seen even wider, which is a whole other look. You might want to set up both options in the space, maybe post a photo to this site? Good luck!

Call Buytile.com They are very helpful and can answer that question for you.

Holligator, I didn't realize that you had to be a member to enlarge my photos in the other forum. Not sure why you couldn't see them because you can see the thumbnails without a membership. Really that should be enough to get an idea of the area I'm concerned with. (Sorry but just not comfortable after reading Photobuckets policys on info sharing to sign up just to post a photo here...Guess I may have to reconsider when I have more time). Palimpsest - The plastic strip that I mentioned that Lowes has is the same thing as the Schulter system. Problem is, I can't seem to find any good photos of it being used to see how it looks...especially around a window. Even Schulters site only shows 1 little close up photo of an outside corner that isn't helpful at all. BillP1 - Please Please Please post a photo of your metal edging....if you used it around a window, that is what I'd really like to see...a close up and from a distance if you could! It would help me so much! I have a bare ugly wall and really need to make a decision so I can move forward. Thanks so much! Anyone else try something else? Maybe just painting the edge? Just really don't want any vertical lines to take away from the clean look that I have in mind. Hoping for any photos that show options other than bullnose or framing around window. I want to take tile all the way up around the window but if I have to frame out the window it will look weird since there is only 2 1/2" on the right side before the cabinet starts, and 10" on the other side. The side with 2 1/2 would be taken up by the framing so would look like tile only on one side if you can visualize what I mean. Thanks!

From what I've learned from Bill Vincent, sanded grout is used for larger grout lines and unsanded for smaller ones or very delicate tile. You might also consider epoxy grout for your kitchen, since it's indestructible, mold-resistant, and doesn't need sealing, although it costs a bit more and your tiler might upcharge a little for the installation. I'm about to tile mine myself and plan on using the same epoxy grout (Laticrete's Spectralock) that I used in the bathroom, which I'm loving for its smoothness and consistent color. Most folks seem to go with 1/16th for a 3x6 subway tile, although some use 1/8th (bluekitobsessed, yours actually look like 1/16th to me?). If you take a stroll through the John Bridge tile forum, you'll see all kinds of examples of the different spacings in grouted tile. Here's one at 1/8th. From what I have read by the experts, it's OK to use your existing kitchen drywall for a backsplash. As long as it's in decent condition, you don't have to replace it with hardibacker, which is meant for places like showers that get lots of serious water exposure. I'm sure Bill V will wander by soon and give you the real skinny from the pro's perspective. Enjoy! Here is a link that might be useful: John Bridge's tile forum