My grandma eats sweets including homemade pies with 1-2 c sugar per pie, loves sweets in general, eats too many fried foods for my taste, doesn’t eat paint chips, bathes in a porcelain tub, and was JUST moved to a nursing facility this year since she’s losing her mobility (mind is still intact) and in another month she will be celebrating her 100th birthday. You don’t have to live in a bubble to live a long life. Much of your life expectancy is predetermined in large part by genetics. Use common sense and don’t lick the bathtub.

Avoid any kind of wood. Infinity All Ultrex would is a good choice with a bullnosed stone stool and perimeter trim well sealed to the window frame. Avoid silicone if it will be in a poorly drained surface. Allow all surfaces to drain quickly if possible, put an exhaust fan close by, don't block air movement between the fan and the window face. Install the window as high and as far from a shower head as possible. Provide a grab bar under or near the window if possible.

We're regluing the 3-piece tub and shower surround. It was somewhat loose not longer after the builder installed it and used Liquid Nails (with bracing) for the adhesive. Finally, we're going to re-glue it. I've read product reviews for both Liquid Nails tub-shower adhesive and for the Loctite Power Grab tub shower adhesive. Mixed reviews on both at various sites. We will vent the Liq Nails or other before caulking the top, but it appears that the set-up time can be days longer than the specs say on the packaging. One commenter claimed that the Loctite product _burned through_ the surround. (I wonder if he/she had the tub-shower product and not some other adhesive from Loctite.) I will try to post some images as I have several questions. 1. The builder sort of squiggled the product onto the wall or surround, and even though he braced it, I suspect that it didn't adhere well because the adhesive wasn't smeared in a broader manner (see photos). 2. At the intersection/overlap of the center section to the curved side pieces, he used some of that foamy double sided tape. Didn't look like that worked all that well either. Any ideas of what we can use or should we just duplicate what he did (it sort of stuck so so for a year or two; ugh)? 3. With this set up, design, we have to be *very* careful not to let the shower water splash outside and hit the plastered blue board. Even though it's painted, splashed water can hit it, soften it, and then drip down onto the woodwork (the 'return' of the mop board). It can also go to the floor and lift up the sheet vinyl for the flooring. Lousy design, but I've seen other shower & tubs with this set up and problem. Any ideas? I'd prefer not to use one of those shower door set ups as it seems they always look messy and the track gets cruddy. Also, if I needed to wash something like a car, dog or large horse, it will be in the way. Thanks for any suggestions or input from similar experiences.

Thanks everyone! As suggested here, we tested the height of the would-be bath with some boxes and 2x4s this afternoon. While we technically can walk into the raised tub, it feels awkward and would be very challenging for our 5 yo without a step or stool (there's no room for a built in step). So a few notes: - we live in a concrete high rise; re-routing plumbing is extremely challenging (hence the need to lift the tub 6" for a drainage slop), but in some cases is doable. - We decided to split the would-be tub/shower space into a shower and closet for a compact and ventless WD). The shower will be 34"x37", the closet 34"x35". - upstairs where the WD and linen closet were going to go, a new 32"x66" drop-in tub will go back into this space instead (there was an old outdated one there previously). We lose some storage by putting in 3 full baths vs 2.5, but hopefully this is a good compromise! We're just working on a new floor plan as we speak. I'd love to get feedback on the revisions once I post it in the am (our brains are fried for today, but we really appreciate everyone's help!!)