They sell a 10-piece filter assortment with most of the available filters, so you can experiment with what works best. You start with a reflector bulb with a 10 degree beam spread in your choice of color temperatures - 2700K (warm, like incandescent), 3000K (a bit whiter, like halogen), 4000K (cool white fluorescent tubes, but with better color rendering), or 5000K (cool, matches daylight streaming through windows). The filters can widen the beam spread, which starts out as a narrow spotlight, to a wide spot, narrow flood, or wide flood. There are four sizes and shapes of the squared or rectangular beam shapers. And finally three filters that will "warm" the light, so if you ordered the 4000K bulbs, you could change it to 3500K, 3000K, or 2700K. Doing this slightly reduces the efficiency, so I'd get the lowest color temperature bulb you'll ordinarily use (and they're very efficient - each bulb uses only 7-1/2 watts, but is as bright as a 50 watt halogen bulb). You also have a choice between 12V low-voltage or 120V line voltage (or 230V in most non-US countries). Using low voltage helped make the old halogen bulbs whiter, but I don't see any advantage to using 12V low voltage for LEDs unless you are converting an existing halogen MR16 setup. If you're installing new lamps, using 120V line voltage (GU10) will save lots of money by not requiring transformers or expensive low-voltage dimmers, and will be less prone to buzzing. They also have two series of bulbs called Vivid VP3 and Brilliant. You want the Vivid/VP3 which has better color rendering (95 CRI in lighting parlance rather than 80), meaning you won't get dull or inaccurate colors like you do with fluorescent/CFL bulbs or lower-quality LEDs. Filter 10-pack includes: 25ð Beam Spreader 36ð Beam Spreader 60ð Beam Spreader 10ð x 25ð Linear Lens beam shaper 10ð x 36ð Linear Lens beam shaper 25ð x 25ð Flat Top beam shaper 36ð x 36ð Flat Top beam shaper 1/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 1/2 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 3/4 CTO Color Temperature Shifter 40ð beam spreader with glare-free louvers sold separately More links: Filters 120v line voltage bulb detailed info 12v low-voltage bulb detailed info Info about color rendering Info about non-yellowish white rendering Those last two links aren't technobabble by the way; this company was founded by a guy that won a Nobel Prize for inventing the blue and white LEDs that made LED lighting possible.

There are lots of technologies: X10, Insteon, Z-wave, UPB. Most of these use some form of wireless technology. I'm not sure I'd want to do a hardwired system. You really need to plan really well. If you have good vision to know where you want controls and remote switches, I guess it has benefits. I don't expect to know how we will use lighting controls until we are living in the house. Do I want to be able to turn lights off from my smartphone in bed. Dim them. Close the garage door. All questions I think you have to be living in the house to learn the answer. I plan on doing standard switches and replace them later with smart switches and controls. Hardwiring also binds you to that company. Our family got an Amazon Echo for Christmas. This thing has great home automation possibilities. It's a voice activated device (similar to smartphone Siri) that can be connected to a smart home. Say "Alexa, turn living room lights on" and voila they are turned on. Home automation can be overwhelming. So many possibilities and decisions. My plan is to pull wire and figure it out later. CAT5 is cheap by the box. Pull plenty of cable. A cable to a blank plate for a future audio distribution control or alarm panel. Pull speaker wire to each room ceiling, mark it and let sheetrockers do their thing and I can cut speakers later. Once the house is built and we are living in it, I'll research switches and controllers and pick a technology and replace the switches. Read that document. It has LOTS of ideas. Such as running a dedicated circuit to a home theatre or an exercise room to power treadmills etc. eg: Interesting Electrical Options These are items that you might want to consider in preparation for future projects. Some are not really HA/HT related, but just nice to have. Of course, making your home more enjoyable is the reason for HA, so maybe they are HA related. Holiday lighting Put switched outlets under the eaves and in a few places at ground level around the outside of the house for decoration. If you have a large Christmas tree, or use lots of lights, consider a dedicated circuit for it. If you have a large room, also consider putting receptacles in the middle in the floor. These can provide power for a tree or lamps in the middle of the room, without having to run extension cords. Make sure there is an outlet (preferably switched) near the front door for a wreath, or similar lighted options. Be sure to include spare outlets in attics for an ultrasonic pest repeller and such. It also allows you to plug in a fan when working up there. Consider switched attic lighting, so when you go up there you can flip a switch and see. Code requires a minimal number of outside outlets on the house. You might want to have an outlet on each side of the house so you don’t have to run an extension cord all over the place to power the hedge clippers. If you plan on having security cameras, consider the power needs for the type of camera you intend to install. Some units require power at the end destination, while other will require it at the camera location. Do you intend to have a fishpond, fountain, or other outside water attraction? You might need power for pumps, lights, etc. How about a birdbath heater? Note: There are extra code requirements whenever you mix water and electricity (or more accurately, whenever you DON’T want to mix them). Make sure you do things correctly. If you plan to have decorative yard lighting (either LV or HV), you will need power for them, and some way to control them. If you plan one controlling them from a plug-in module, try to locate the module someplace protected from the elements. If you have a larger yard, consider running power to other spots on the property. These additional outlets can be used for decorations, yard work, or someplace for the kids to plug in their boom box. Plan for task lighting/floodlights outside. These lights should be mounted high on the sides of the house, and can be either halogen or regular spotlights. If you plan to control them remotely, make you stay within the switches power limits. Spotlights, especially halogens, add up quickly. Look around for places that you MIGHT want electricity in the future, either for electrical appliances, or lighting. Some suggestions that require either a switch, or receptacle are; Lighting for picture frames or artwork Lighting for cabinets holding collectables Bannister lights In the kitchen * Under cabinet lighting * In cabinet lighting * Above cabinet lighting * Kick-space lighting * Decorations * Do you want a fan over the kitchen table? On the deck/patio * Lights on/under the railing * Accent lighting * Task lighting over the grill * Decorations In the bedroom * Do you want a ceiling fan? * Up lighting in a tray ceiling * Task lighting around the mirror In the living/great room * An outlet near the fireplace mantle for decorations or lights * Spotlights on the mantle * If you have a “stone” chimney, consider putting lights on the ceiling, around a foot from the chimney. These lights will bring out the texture of the chimney * Ceiling fan(s) Consider putting lights in the closets. There are in-expensive switches that can be put in the doorjambs that will automatically turn the light on and off Depending on how much you plan on installing automation, you can wire the house without 3-way (or 4-way, etc) switches. Then install the loads in out of the way locations and put multi-button remote control at the locations where you normally would have had switches. When you do this, it eliminates the "switch banks" that normally crop up around the doorways, especially exterior doors. Very versatile, and it removes a lot of visual clutter. In some locations, increase the size of the box by one space (i.e. 1 single gang is replaced by a 2-gange, a 2-gange by a 2-gang, etc.). The extra space can be used for a multi-button remote control. Plan for future LCD/Plasma installations. If you know where they would go, you should power for them now. Don’t forget the LV connections either. If it’s a large house, consider installing power for a high-speed hot water recycling pump, such as THIS (gothotwater.com). This will provide hot water --Russ

Some pictures, alright not ready yet but it gives an impression. !00Watt unit, 2 warm white LED's. waiting for the other LED wiring not ready yet. Left 220V mains inlet, fuse holder and beside those a 12V relais and a max temp switch ( 50 C. ). Blue wire is grounding. The unit will shut off when: -1- short circuit fuse blows -2- overheating (temp. switch + some extra components) -3- 12V power supply failure relais falls off. The 100 Watt (2 LED) unit, work in progress :-) The test unit with 50 Watt full spectrum grow LED (only available for 220V AC), external 12V power supply for the CPU cooler. WARNING For those who want to use those LED's be careful they are direct connected to the mains !! When you don't know what you are doing don't do it !!

It probably would help though I am unfamiliar with the units you mention. One thing that sometimes works is to leave one Xenon bulb in the string. This sometimes ends the flickering.