Joe, as others have said, you have been furnished a "list of features", not a construction specification. Such lists may often be as misleading and confusing for what they omit as for what they claim to proscribe. The language of your construction contract will determine the extent to which your "features" list governs and is binding, including recourse (if any) for errors, omissions and disagreements. For examples of construction specifications, visit the Construction Specifications Institute (CSI). Here's the Wiki definition for "Specification--Technical Standard". A key element of a legitimate specification is its three parts for each and every area of Work--General, Products and Execution: Construction specifications in North America Specifications in North America form part of the contract documents that accompany and govern the construction of a building. The guiding master document is the latest edition of MasterFormat. It is a consensus document that is jointly sponsored by two professional organisations: Construction Specifications Canada and Construction Specifications Institute. While there is a tendency to believe that "Specs overrule Drawings" in the event of discrepancies between the text document and the drawings, the actual intent��"made explicit in the contract between the Owner and the Contractor��"is for the drawings and specifications to be complementary, together providing the information required for a complete facility. The Specifications fall into 50 Divisions, or broad categories of work results involved in construction. The Divisions are subdivided into Sections, each one addressing a narrow scope of the construction work. For instance, firestopping is addressed in Section 078400 - Firestopping. It forms part of Division 07, which is Thermal and Moisture Protection. Division 07 also addresses building envelope and fireproofing work. Each Section is subdivided into three distinct Parts: "General", "Products" and "Execution". The MasterFormat system can be successfully applied to residential, commercial, civil, and industrial construction. Specifications can be either "performance-based", whereby the specifier restricts the text to stating the performance that must be achieved by the completed work, or "prescriptive", whereby the specifier indicates specific products, vendors and even contractors that are acceptable for each workscope. Most construction specifications are a combination of performance-based and prescriptive types, naming acceptable manufacturers and products while also specifying certain standards and design criteria that must be met. While North American specifications are usually restricted to broad descriptions of the work, European ones can include actual work quantities, including such things as area of drywall to be built in square metres, like a bill of materials. This type of specification is a collaborative effort between a specwriter and a quantity surveyor. This approach is unusual in North America, where each bidder performs a quantity survey on the basis of both drawings and specifications. Although specifications are usually issued by the architect's office, specwriting itself is undertaken by the architect and the various engineers or by specialist specwriters. Specwriting is often a distinct professional trade, with professional certifications such as "Certified Construction Specifier" (CCS) through the professional organizations noted above. Specwriters are either employees of or sub-contractors to architects, engineers, or construction management companies. Specwriters frequently meet with manufacturers of building materials who seek to have their products specified on upcoming construction projects so that contractors can include their products in the estimates leading to their proposals. Good luck on your project.

I have not been here in a long time, either, but now and then I look to see if anything is going on. This forum has been really quiet for a long time. On the cloth bathroom wipes, I'm admitting I started using them about a year ago -- with some modifications. I only use them for urine. Let's be reasonable here about urine. Some people actually put human urine in their compost to help it "work" faster. The architect, Frank Lloyd Wright, is said to have had his construction workers pee on the copper he used to speed up the process in "weathering" it. I've heard that some people actually drink urine, and they say it whitens their teeth. Ugh. We all have places where we draw the line and I would not step over it for that one. People's dogs pee on everything. If you put your trash bags on the curb, chances are some dog's going to come along and pee on them. I can't leave my laundry basket under the line while I wait for my laundry to dry because my dog will pee on it. Any time you touch a plant outside or pick a flower or sit down on the grass, you may be touching dog pee. So let's get a grip on this one. I think what is turning people off is the comparison of wipes to diapers and really that is not a fair comparison. A diaper is holding the entire load. The wipes have just a few drops on them. Compare instead to a man's underwear. Men do not wipe when they urinate. They just shake, and their urine splatters all over the bathroom, and then they tuck themselves away where any little droplets left deposit on their underwear. So there's no difference between washing underwear and cloth wipes. The smell of a bathroom containing a container of used wipes is no worse than the smell of the bathroom that a man has urinated in while standing up. I once worked for two well-respected attorneys. The senior partner was an older man who never washed his hands in the bathroom. The wall next to the john was stained yellow. How's that for bacteria? I cut up an old worn towel into 3" x 5" pieces. I intended to zigzag around the edges but never got around to it. Consequently, I can't throw these in the washing machine because they ravel. I keep them in a box in the bathroom that I use during the day. I use each wipe once, then drop it in a small trash container that has one of those discrete lids with a swinging cover. If, before I wash them, I detect an odor, I pour in a little distilled vinegar. I don't like the odor of bleach and bleach eats up the cloth and is not good for the septic tank. But normally I wash them by hand every few days, in their container, starting with a soak in water with vinegar added, drain that, then a little hot water from the tap with some of my cheap homemade laundry detergent that contains borax, washing soda, baking soda and Fels Naptha soap, swish that around, drain that (and both vinegar water and soapy water can go into the bowl of the john, where it does as good a job cleaning and sanitizing as any expensive bathroom bowl cleaner you can buy), and then rinse and hang them on the line. There is no odor other than that of the laundry detergent. All this takes only a few minutes. I repeat. I still use TP for #2. Also, I don't ask guests to use the cloths or even tell them that they're there. Hubs sits to pee so that he doesn't splash his urine all over the bathroom. Some men think this is emasculating but if you're so unsure about your masculinity that sitting down to pee in the privacy of your own bathroom bothers you, you have bigger problems than I can address here. If I had children in the house I don't think I'd let them use cloth. Children have no motivation to be careful about dropping things into the toilet bowl and then flushing. As small as these cloths are, maybe they'd flush ok but that would be a risk I wouldn't want to take. People talk about how washing cloth wipes is an added expense when actually they're small and can be thrown in with your load of underwear. So no additional cost there. Remember, there's no more urine on these wipes than there is on the inside of a man's underwear. TP is getting more and more expensive all the time. Some brands actually contain cloth fibers and these clog up septic tank laterals. I save money in many other ways. I wash plastic bags, if they have not contained raw meat. Before I wash my pots and pans, I put a drop of dish detergent in each bag with a tiny bit of water, smoosh the bag all around, and dump it into the sink as I rinse them out. Then I add a little more water to the sink and wash my dishes. So it has not cost me more of anything to wash bags, like some people like to say when they oppose the practice. I hang the bags up so they dry inside and out. In using a bag several times, I'm saving money and keeping lots of bags out of the landfill. If you watch your pennies, the dollars will take care of themselves. BTW, we are almost never sick.

Hi, I’m Sarah and I work with Sub-Zero and Wolf. Congrats on your new house! We know how overwhelming the process can be and how many decisions you have to make. Wolf recently launched a number of new products that could work for you, including 36” induction cooktops and a new oven line that's available in three different styles. Sub-Zero’s 30” integrated refrigerator and freezer would also be a great choice and are panel-ready. I know there’s a lot to take in, so I’d love to invite you to come visit a showroom. There you can see all of the products first-hand, take a test drive with the products and cook on them or attend a cooking demonstration. Here’s a link to find a showroom close to you – subzero-wolf.com/locator. Our showroom staff is available to answer any other questions that you may have and I'm also happy to help!

Best of luck as you part with bucks for appliances which no longer are made to last. Chilling. 1). have a 501R sub zero 36" all refrig. No longer made 20+ yrs old. Had it serviced twice and it runs well still. ALL service folks tell me that for the price these days (5-6x what it cost in 1994) to NOT buy. So I went to liebherr on a second home remodel and LOVE it totally. 24" all refrig column with BioFresh drawers. Performance has been excellent, quiet, price is lower tier of upper end, unit is 5 years pls. 2) have had total misery with full freezers. Each one gets out of skew and frosts up around door. THREE of them so no more run of the mill models for me. Am looking and will either go Miele all freezer 30" 15cuft or Marvel 30" 19 (it is taller) if I can get some reviews... Noise and longevity performance being key... Not for the money but for the hassle of redoing things ! Cooking. 1) installed 36" iron grate blue star cook top 5yrs ago. Could not be happier. LOVE it. Heat, iron top cleaning, and yes that drip pan is old fashioned but the whole thing works, and the controls are away from the heat. 2). Super dislike the glass top 5 burner thermador gas cooktops. Mine is failing though in fairness it is old, but the cleaning a hassle and the BTUs are unimpressive, 3). Went to the capital factory in Calif when visiting there. Very good stuff comparable to blue star. Did not like that they mix st steel and iron on the burners and grates... Cleaning not as easy. Other features nice. IF I were choosing range vs components, then I would go capital over blue star on the range Baking. Disclaimer. I don't bake. Hence until 5 years I was a low use oven owner, (1) after Install of Blue Star GAS FRENCH door 30" wall oven that all changed. I can't tell you how super this huge honker is. The cavity is huge and don't discount that as you look at the high end ovens. The French doors are so damn convenient to get right up to a pan and turn or check it. The racks glide nicely. It has convection. I suppose the down side is not really a broiler of great acclaim. Do be aware that the unit, being nearly counter depth takes a lot of space above and below, (2) therefore am going with BLUE star French door wall oven again, in Electric also 30" in a remodel am about to start and am 'dumping' my traditional 30" electric thermador under counter (or wall I suppose) unit . The electric blue star French door is more compact than the gas I am not a range lover, Preferring to separate the large items (DW bake and cooktop) so that we can work in zones. Also drop down oven doors, wall or undercounter, aren't so convenient