Some of your photos are a little too close-up which makes it hard to grasp the context. What's certain is that the excavation needs to be somewhat larger than the finished product and then backfilled. I wouldn't label this overzealous grading. It requires a little extra room to perform the construction. So you see the maximum extent of space you have to build a patio. But there's nothing to stop you from shrinking it if you desire. However, thinking that putting dirt back around a tree is somehow equivalent to putting roots back is just not accurate. An amputation cannot be undone. Putting dirt back will make no difference. In spite of that, the tree will re-grow some roots as that's what they do. The ultimate patio size is a factor of desire and space available, but as patios go, it certainly doesn't look too large. Neither does it look like the ret. wall will be abnormally tall. Its curved shape will add strength. It will be stepping or sloped down in some way to generally follow the earth so it's highest section will not extend for great width. Its height is a balancing act between the patio elevation and the surrounding soil levels. Calculate these out and adjust them as you see fit. Raise the patio too much and you will be filling the bottom end or shrinking the patio size. Lower it and you'll be creating a taller retaining wall. Balance and moderation are the key. As I look at the pictures, I don't see anything that can't be worked out to a decent conclusion... if the right design decisions are made along the way. If this were my yard, I'd prefer the appearance of a nicely detailed mortared stone wall, but that requires more skill and higher cost material than the kind of block you're proposing. Therefore, it would be more expensive. But it would look better, too. What you decide on is a factor of cost vs. benefits as you see it. At the end of it all, it will be imperative that you establish groundcover capable of holding soil in place. This is a key to preventing erosion.

So, it's nice to see your contractor noticed one of the issues! Aisles! Have you had a chance to read the Kitchen Design FAQ threads? They discuss good kitchen design principles, guidelines, etc. I'll link to them below. First I better ask, are you a function first or form (looks) first? Neither answer is right/wrong - it's what's right for you. Most of us here are function-first. It is easy to make a functional kitchen look nice; it's almost impossible to make a nice-looking by dysfunctional kitchen work well w/o tearing it out and starting over. If looks are more important to you than function, then read the rest just so you know the functional issues - that way there will be no surprises when you start to work in it after it's done. You will be making decisions with the knowledge of the consequences of your choices - both good and bad. So what other red flags do I see? Refrigerator and Island relative locations...Your island is what we call a "barrier island". It's a barrier b/w the refrigerator & Prep Zone and b/w the refrigerator & Cooking Zone/range. You will be running around that island so much that it will most likely get old fast! DW in the middle of the Prep Zone...Ideally, you want separation of your Prep and Cleanup Zones and you don't want a DW in the middle of the Prep Zone. Aisle widths...the minimum recommended aisle width for a one-person kitchen is 42" - that's only one person ever - no help with cooking, prepping, cleaning up and not allowing someone to cleanup or unload the DW while you're prepping. For two or more people, the minimum is 48". Then there's the traffic aisles behind the seats. Seating overhang...I don't know if this is an issue since there are no measurements. Aim for the minimum recommendation of 15" of clear knee/leg overhang. If you're a tall family, 18" is better. Here's a Zone Map and traffic b/w the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones to illustrate: ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ To clarify about the Prep Zone...The only source of water in your Kitchen is the cleanup sink, so that means your Prep Zone is b/w the sink and the range. Water is a key component of the Prep Zone. For a functional Prep Zone, you need a water source and sufficient workspace (the bare minimum is 36" with 42" or more much, much better. If you want the island to be your primary Prep Zone, then you need to add a water source (e.g., a prep sink). Given the length of your sink wall, you don't need to. With a bit of re-configuration, you can fix some of the issues with the current space b/w the sink and range (DW in the way and not enough workspace) to make it a nice Prep Zone. Move the DW to the left of the sink Move the trash pullout to the right of the sink - for two bins, it needs to be 18" wide (one recycle bin & one trash bin). Move the range to the right far enough to give you 42" of counterspace b/w the sink and range. This does not solve the barrier island issue, it just fixes the Prep Zone. To fix all the issues, I would probably: Move the refrigerator to the upper right Then, put in an 18" cabinet next to it Next, the range Next, a 24" wide base cabinet Next, an 18" trash pullout Next, a 30" single-bowl sink (size depends on the actual length of your wall) Then, DW to the left of the sink Finally, a 36" corner susan or similar (not a blind corner cabinet, they're pretty useless!) If there's extra room, then put it b/w the DW and corner cabinet. If you want water in the island so you can use it as your primary Prep Zone, put it on the refrigerator end. That's all I have time for now, but it's probably a lot to digest anyway! Here are the links I promised: Kitchen Design FAQ Threads: FAQ -- Kitchen work zones, what are they? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638270/faq-kitchen-work-zones-what-are-they FAQ -- Aisle widths, walkways, seating overhangs, work and landing space, and others http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638304/faq-aisle-widths-walkways-seating-overhangs-work-landing-space-etc FAQ -- How do I plan for storage? Types of Storage? What to Store Where? http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3638376/faq-how-do-i-plan-for-storage Looking for layout help? Memorize this first. http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/2699918/looking-for-layout-help-memorize-this-first

A couple of things to consider.... Where does all this communication wire terminate? You will need a centralized connection center that you can patch lines in for use or remove when not in use. Especially coax and to a lesser degree data cables. Coax runs that are unused just degrade and create noise in your signal to the devices you do use. Its great to have coax to every possible location you may want to use it, unless you're going to design it that its all connected together with no access to change the termination and connections. Bring that wire into a central location, in a star pattern with the option to connect and disconnect the runs that are not in use, it is worth it. Give consideration to WiFi coverage, homes are never setup to install a wifi router in a central location for the best coverage, and most people have horrible wifi coverage in their homes due to the limited locations they can install a wifi wire to connect it with the data and coax connections needed for it and the cable modem. Imagine if the kitchen is in the center, there being a coax, several CAT connections and a 120VAC outlet above a kitchen cabinet to install all that for the best wifi coverage and its up out of the way. Another factor, would every consider installing satellite TV service in the future, or have it as a selling point for future owner of the home? If so, now is the time to setup your coax network for a Satellite install if you elect to do it. If you install the correct wire in the correct way, satellite installers will not have to crawl all over you home destroying it with their hack installation of their coax wiring, they simply have to install the antenna, connect it to the cable you have pre-installed and reconfigure the central hook up for the satellite stb's to be installed at your existing coax drops..... Most people are using the quality RG6 for CATV that meets the spec for satellite, its just good measure to assure reliable CATV and cable modem performance. But what they fail to realize is satellite requires one more thing over CATV, it needs to pass power over the coax cable to power the satellite dish. Currently most DIY'er and Contractors and Retailers are using Copper Clad (coated) steel core (central wire) in their RG6 coax cable. The signal mostly travel overs the surface of the wire, so the copper coating offers the same performance at a much lower cost, than a solid copper core. The solid copper core does offer the tiniest bit less signal loss, but its so little it will never make a difference, so it doesn't justify the higher cost of a solid copper core. EXCEPT, if you using it for Satellite that almost all use power passing over the coax cable to power the satellite dish.... ....electrical power is transmitted through the entire wire not just the surface like the rf signal, and copper is lower resistance than steel, so a copper clad steel core will have a much bigger voltage drop at the end of the coax cable to the Satellite dish and it will perform poorly. So if you want to build in the option for possible satellite, make sure that all the coax is satellite rated (3GHZ swept) and the coax runs to the satellite dish and to the main stb in the places you're likely to install it are solid copper core coax for the power passing. Some satellite systems inject the power at the main splitter/switch for system, which the perfect location for that would be at that central location for all the wiring I spoke of earlier....

this is one of the worst jobs I've seen recently. sorry, but if you pay him for this shower, you're nuts. he is a GC, not a tile setter. big diff. any tile setter who knows anything will know you do NOT grout between the floor and bottom tile row, or any of those corner walls. any change of plane requires 100% silicone caulk (which comes in every color to match your grout). Grout is not waterproof. the bench is just bad. horrible. I doubt it's even waterproofed correctly. The fact that it's crooked says a lot. does he expect you to accept this? someone already mentioned this. look at tiles on top. 1/3 layout. now look at tiles on bottom of bench. 1/2 layout. I mean, WTH?? Was he on crack when he did this? point this out to him and ask him wtf. Besides the lack of continuity, this slant is a joke. Does he think water should just roll down to the right? Is the bench seat even slanted downward to allow water to drain off? the cutout around the water spigot?? just horrible. ditto the slivers of tiles and wonky layout. The floor tile should have been done first, and then you bring down your wall tiles on top of it so you don't get that large gap between the two. here's mine so you see what I mean i know this shower is larger, but proper tile layout is the same. again, larger view of mine. do you see the difference w/yours now? I don't know what he charged you, but even 100 bucks was too much. Call in a reputable tile setter (an actual tile pro, not a GC) and have him come out to give you his opinion and estimate to redo it. Your shower is a fail and you should not accept it. And no you aren't being picky. only a mental patient would think this looks good. Your GC should be ashamed of himself for doing this work AND taking your money for it. Please let him read all these comments. I'd love to hear his response.