The one thing that no one has mentioned is that the best lighting is always in layers. I would never have just can lights in my bedroom. Can lights / down lights are usually used for general lighting, not task lighting. Bedside lamps or wall sconces are an additional layer that provide low levels of light for reading at night or when low level lighting is needed. The other thing to remember is most of the time when you are in your bedroom, your eyes are closed. No one ever wants to walk into a dimly lit bedroom, think ceiling fan/ light combo with "soft white" incandescent lamps. You also don't want to be blinded either. However, dimming the amount of light is usually much easier and cheaper than trying to add additional light fixtures. I wouldn't rule out using can lights in my bedroom, but I also wouldn't want it as my only source of light in the bedroom. I also don't agree with Renovator8's comment about the trim size for cans. A 6" can is the most commonly sized down light. Most builders use them because they are common and therefore cheap. They can designed for most common household lamps including both PAR, R style, and "A" style lamps. "A" style lamps are the pear shaped incandescent lamps that most people refer to as bulbs or lamps for their home. An "A" lamp does a great shop of spreading light, but not at delivering it. Most of the light is usually lost within the fixture. Many builders use PAR or R style lamps because due to the way the lamps are shaped, most of the light is delivered to the work space and has a decent spread. If a lamp or bulb is seen from below the ceiling plane, then two things are going on. One - the can light is cheap and not deep enough. Or two (more likely) - someone is using a lamp that is not designed for this fixture. This can be a compact fluorescent "Par" style lamp or a larger wattage R or PAR lamp. Either way, the fixture is not being used as intended. Most manufacturers of down lights have a wattage label inside the housing, but there should also be a sticker on the trim indicating the correct style of lamps to use. Whether or not someone pays attention to it is another matter. I'll get off my soapbox now. FYI - I'm a manufacturer's rep of over 100 different commercial and residential lighting lines. All I do every day is sell light fixtures and look at different lamps.

Light depends on code, or what fan will allow. I have noticed that the light's for ceileng fans have been lowered so older fans with lights support more wattage. Im not sure the reason, but its something across all US states. I got one of the Emerson fans for great room in a rental unit I have and it is fantastic. I got lights that pointed down, for max lighting. Loved it so much, that I went and got the same fan, for my sunroom. I did not add the light fixture to the fan for sunroom, plenty of light. The fan's I got are for larger rooms,you might want a smaller base motor for the bedroom. I would suggest you look at local lighting store. FYI my fans hardwire in for power, but also have a wireless remote feature all controls on remote unit installed in wall switch and hand held remote optional. Note these fans are custom, you pick all the features, finish color, blades, light fixtures, wall control panels etc. I picked Emerson due to ratings on fan motor reliablity it is the main reason to buy a fan so motor working quiet and efficient was my primary focus, looks were last. Here is a link that might be useful: Emerson Ceiling fan

michoumonster, to qualify under Title 24 as "high efficacy", the type of light either needs to be generically qualified, e.g. fluorescent fixtures meeting a certain standard, or it needs to be "listed." Anything you or I whip together out of components isn't going to be listed. It is also doubtful that these LED strips/transformer will meet the minimum lumens/watt to qualify anyway. Check out your strip LED specs (which ones are you using?), knock of 20% for power loss in the transformer, and see if you can meet the standards: â¢15 Watts or Less- Minimum of 40 lumens per watt â¢15-40 Watts- Minimum of 50 lumens per watt â¢Over 40 Watts- Minimum of 60 lumens per watt There are strip light fixtures that meet this, but if I understand correctly you aren't planning on using those. To ionized: if one wants uniform lighting in the cove, rather than just at spots, T5 would put out way way too much light for the application. Here is a link that might be useful: Search for high efficacy lighting and other appliances

you guys are so awesome. So much great info, and things I would have never considered. leafy-Thanks for the input...I loved our fan w/lights in our old bedroom, but we had 10 ft ceilings and maybe that extra 2 feet helped. I will take your situation into consideration. stlouie-oooh, that is pretty and sleek and not to obtrusive looking! Iw ill research that a little more. Thanks! writers-I remember you...I think you live near me...I am in Plantation Acres. that fan looks like a MUST HAVE for hurricane season. I am not familiar w/that at all, so thanks for sharing. And good point about the fan and the air going to the edges of the room, I would have never thought of that. thanks vampire...I am going to consider white and also a brown to match the floor. I can not even consider NOT running the A/C during spring/summer. BUT...I try mybest to avoid the heater during the winter, I hate that dry heat...ugh. So you must feel that way about the fale coolness of the A/C.