I think the tub probably is cast iron. When I tap on the slope of the back, I hear more of a bell sound. The tiling on the apron may be muffling any sound when I tap on the sides of the tub. On the drain cover, it says "Made in Taiwan," and it looks like cast iron tubs may have been imported from Taiwan in the 80's. The main incentive for the bathroom remodel is a serious leakage problem with the shower pan in the stall shower. A secondary reason is that the entire layout has never been ideal. Third reason is that all the small tile and grout is a pain to clean. Fourth reason is the decor (tile) is dated. I don't know if it's possible or cost-effective to remove the tiling around the tub without damaging it. It would be challenging to design a new bathroom around the old tub with the existing tile. I need to operate the window; it is the only source of ventilation in the bathroom. Changing the layout would provide easier access to the window. I've thought of several alternatives - add a fan, add another window, change the window configuration (awning-type window), or find a window treatment that provides privacy without sacrificing ventilation. While the exterior length of the tub is 66", the interior length is 44". The depth is 15". I'm 5'1" and this size works for me, but probably not for the average-size adult. My teenage son likes to take baths. He's a foot taller than me and has long legs. I took him with me to try out some longer tubs - even some of the 72" tubs are too short for him, depending on the slope of the sides. Given that I'm accustomed to a cast iron tub, will I be disappointed if I replace it with a new acrylic / fiberglass tub? There are some other types of materials, such as Victoria & Albert tubs and WetStyle tubs; I'm thinking about looking at these.

If you take the time to glance through some of the posts in this forum you'll probably discover that even though yours is a heating product fireplace inserts are not generally discussed here. Its geared more towards conventional means of heating and cooling such as furnaces, boilers, heat pumps and the like. You should have a toll free number that came with that insert though, maybe they have a tech dept. that can assist you better.

My kitchen is almost done and I finally get to post to this thread! In no particular order... I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my: -blumotion full extension drawers in the pantry, NOTHING gets lost and it is ALWAYS neat! Wooo hoooo!! -soft close cabinet doors -hot water tap (though I had this before the remodel...still LOVE it though) -super susans -Blanco silgranit super single sink -granite counters (never had them before and LOVE how easy they are to keep clean compared to my white laminate pre-model) -LOVE that my garbage is finally in the cabinet now! It was in our old house and when we moved I HATED having to keep it out. LOVE IT! -oh, and I really, really prefer my rev-a-shelf under sink organizer to the tilt out drawers I used to have.

Greg here from Hansen Wholesale, where @tigerdunes purchased his ventless logs. I am also the one who has published all of the details at the Hansen Wholesale website regarding the pros and cons and differences between vented and ventless gas logs. Truth is, there are many considerations and we handle each case separately when dealing with our customers. In some cases, ventless makes sense, but in most cases vented gas logs are the best choice. The original thread here is 3 years old, but as I read the entire thread there is some confusion about welding the damper open when installing a direct vent gas log. I think Anapolitan may have confused "Vented" gas logs with a "Direct Vent Insert". There are no "Direct Vent Gas Logs". Direct vent refers to sealed metal box that you insert into the fireplace. There are two ducts that get run up the chimney with a special chimney cap installed at the top. One vent draws outside air down the chimney for combustion while the other is used for exhaust. It is an air tight sealed unit. Because there are 2 ducts, the damper would have to be propped open to feed the ducts up the chimney. Vented gas logs require that the damper is open when they are burning. Some municipalities may require you to weld the damper open when using a vented gas log. The reason vented logs need the damper open is because they burn more like real wood where they intentionally do not completely burn the gas. This creates a wafty yellow flame very much like real wood. It also produces Carbon Monoxide (lethal gas), Carbon Dioxide, Water Vapor and Soot. Hence the reason the damper needs to be open. With the damper open, most of the heat goes up the flue. Because ventless logs burn the gas completely, at least in an ideal situation, the byproducts are Carbon Dioxide and Water Vapor, neither of which present a health issue when used in moderation. Since the damper is closed, 99.99% of the heat produced by burning the gas will come into the room, so ventless gas logs produce a LOT of heat, sometimes too much. The R. H. Peterson ventless gas logs are rated as both vented and ventless. Technically, if they are intended to be used as vented logs the damper must be propped open permanently, but most people ignore that. The best solution to the issue of leaving the damper open all the time is to add a glass door to the fireplace so you can close the doors when the fire is off. Anyways, I have much more detail on our website and in the heads of our gas log experts. Anyone reading this may want to talk to us directly because each case really does need to be handled on an individual basis. Profided by: Greg Tillotson Hansen Wholesale: Gas Logs and Fireplace Doors Feel free to email me directly. If you do, be sure to include some pictures of your fireplace along with the inside dimensions: gregt@hansenwholesale.com P.S. If this comes through all in bold, I tried turning the bold off, but it wouldn't listen.