remodelfla- Have you considered painting the cabinets and adding in the wood tones in somethings else, like flooring, or butcherblock counters? This is what I am doing with my IKEA kitchen. Perhaps the Scherrs idea is worth checking out though, especially if they are now pre-drilling. I am intrigued to see you design when it is completed- I love the industrial/contemporary/vintage combination that both you and lisalists describe. I have been describing my look as English/Southern/farmhouse/scullery/industrial. grlwprls- I can't wait to see your design either! I love your idea of early American gorcery store industrial. In fact, last summer when I visited a museum in the Outer Banks, I took a picture of their General Store display (I think it was supposed to represent what it would have looked like in about 1910 or so), just for the molding and beadboard! Oh, how pitiful we are, the TKO.

So sorry! I meant 3mm. Thank you, I corrected that - I also added that the back brackets require the same slightly thicker stock (than the usual Ikea drawer bottom - so if you marry the back Blum brackets to the Ikea bottoms, you use the Ikea bottom if possible, but have to create a back.) I am not sure if I can post a link, but Google Tandembox & measurements. If you have the Ikea Rationell drawers, and you need to cut them narrower for some reason, the provided drawer bottom will work fine if you cut it, then cut a channel like the opposite side. I found a number of cover panels on clearance in As-Is which were the thickness I needed for the Rationell drawers which I found in As-Is which were not wide enough, so if you need to make wider drawers, measure the thickness of the provided bottoms, and either find what you need at your local big box, or see what you can find at Ikea. From what I discovered on-line, get fiberboard versus particleboard. It is better in most ways. Doesn't chip out when you cut it, is stronger, and lots more info online. I'd recommend you start with one pair of back brackets, and see how they work for you. Also, the one big struggle I had was figuring out where to drill the holes - while I highly recommend the BLUM front marking template for drawer fronts, and wish I purchased it, I designed a really helpful almost free solution; you know wall anchors? Those little plastic inch long or so anchors which are put into a wall prior to a screw? I put a couple in (from the front) of the Ikea drawer front brackets (which hold the drawer to the drawer front), cut most of the rest off the back of the bracket, then installed short pointy screws from the back, then popped them onto the sides once they were ready to fit the drawer fronts. I fit drawers from the bottom up, leaving appropriate space between each drawer (about 1/16th). It really helps to create a sturdy low and level platform for the installation of the lowest drawer, so you can place the drawer at the correct height without too much duress (learned the hard way.) Then, place your drawer against these screws, and give it a hard whack - they will leave marks on the drawer of where to drill. Use a penny or some other spacer between that installed drawer and the next drawer, and do the same. Then remove the jig bracket, and replace with a non-jig bracket. For the last drawer you install, just remove the screws and plastic anchors after you have marked your spot. Here is a photo (poor, sorry, my phone camera is not great) of how I constructed the drawer jig.

Are you doing three drawers with drawer fronts on the bottom and then a door above with two inner drawers? That's what we are doing. Our first hinge uses hole #27 from the bottom and it looks like we can put the first drawer slide at #29; 2nd drawer can be around #36, depending on how much space we want in-between. I'd show a pic but we don't have drawers installed yet - it is just stickies marking the holes. We got to these positions by holding up the door to mark where the hinges would be and looking at the different configurations in the IKEA directions to get a starting point for the two inner drawers.

It works! I saw this thread last week, and decided to plan in some of those hidden drawers into our kitchen plan. DH liked the idea but needed a bit of convincing evidence, so this morning we went to Ikea. We brought some masking tape and a couple of flat magnets and asked one of the kitchen staffers for an ok. We tried your "fix" in one of the showrooms, using the masking tape to secure the magnets. After changing out one of the magnets for a stronger one and after a try or two, YES: we were able to predict which drawer would be visible when opened. It really did feel like magic. The kitchen staff and other customers were impressed too and everybody wanted to give it a try as well. Lots of laughter and oohing and aahing. We had quite the little magic show at Ikea today! :-) Thanks Pippa for sharing this.