3 to 5 bulb fixture with 60w bulbs per sink. Put each one on its own switch plus a standing light so that you don't have to put all those bulbs on each time you go to the bathroom. We have a 48" single sink with a three globe fixture with 60w clear bulbs and a 40w light over the shower that illuminates the bathroom in the evening. You don't want to go in the bathroom in the middle of the night and flick the main lights on, they will blind you.

Formica is a heat resistant, wipe-clean, plastic laminate of paper or fabric with melamine resin. This product was pretty standard in most homes for countertops in years past. Then with the popularity of stone, it was used less and less. You can find samples of formica in any box store near you. The cost is minimal compared to stone, although the look can resemble quartz or granite and does not have the panache stone has.

@ greendesigns. My countertop is extremely light and I can simply pull it forward to access the hoses or to pull the washer/dryer out. The basket that sits in the middle of the countertop actually blocks the water valves. Because the table that I used for the legs is skinnier than the table that I used for the top (24 v. 30), there is room for the dryer vent to run behind the machines and to the vent without hitting the "legs". One of my kids always unloads his backpack and switches out his notebooks in the laundry room and before he used to always drop stuff in the crevices between and behind the machines, but no more!! @lasummers24 - Top is 30x60. Sides are ~24x40. I followed this blog to make the laundry room counter: https://helen.blog/2014/01/house-project-laundry-room-and-table/ Basically, the laundry room counter consists of an IKEA linnmon table top (I used white, but it comes in other colors - it is normally $39, but goes on sale for $29), two shorter IKEA linnmon table tops for the legs (I think these were $19/each), 4 L brackets to attach the "legs" to the top and 4 furniture glides put into the bottom of the legs as feet. The furniture glides gave me a bit more space between the tops of the washer/dryer and the counter top (some people suggested the machines needed room to breath). They also gave me some space between the floor and the legs so in case there is a water leak, the legs won't get instantly wet. My washer/dryer are not on pedestals. I am only 5'2", so if they were, I would not be able to use the countertop! Basket blocking the ugly water valves in the picture below. You can see here that the table I used for the legs is not as wide as the table top. This is great because it allows the dryer vent to pass by the legs to connect with the vent, but I did not like the look of the gap, so I placed the basket with dog leashes there to cover the hole and prevent things from falling through the crevice.

In terms of overall length, I have from left to right: 48" Freezer(18")/Fridge(30") 3/4 inch side cover panel 120" counter top, therein 36" induction cook top 3/4 inch side cover panel 30" wall ovens 48" pantry (2x24" high cabinets) 2" cover panel to the wall = 249.5" Total I've been going back and forth on the hood. It's probably the most discussed item. Originally we planned to get a custom hood liner built for an insert hood, but now we are leaning towards this very basic BOSCH pull out hood. Minimum mounting clearance over cooktop is 25 3/5". There is no maximum clearance given in the spec sheets. It should come in right around 30-32" clearance (math: 84" tall cab (incl. toe kick) - 36" base cabinets - 15" wall cab to mount the hood to - 2" for the hood hardware = 31"), which is very average as far as I can tell. I was planning to build a custom open cabinet left and right of the hood cabinet which will probably be around 16-17" high to seamlessly integrate the pull-out. See inspiration below.