Hi, SFL, I don't know how similar Zone 9a and Zone 10b are. I imagine you get NO chill time, and I'm wondering how is your soil? 300 miles is a long way, putting us pretty much in different worlds even in the same state. But I'll give it a shot. The main similarity is heat & humidity!! There's a good small book called 'The Southern Queen: Growing Beautiful Roses in the Tropics' by Latimer C. Farr about growing roses in South Florida. I got mine in a local rose society drawing, and I can't find any for sale online. As to the nematodes, if you're going for HTs and other moderns, they definitely should be on Fortuniana. I grow Tiffany on Fort and two Chrysler Imperials probably on Dr Huey so they're in big pots. Both are on Farr's HT list. I have a very early HT (pre-1895) called Madame Abel Chatenay (own root) which I love, she's healthy but loses her leaves in Jan & Feb. Farr has a pretty long list of moderns that do well down there. Probably your local rose society would be the best source for a list. I don't grow David Austins. Belinda's Dream is a good modern one. She gets very big here. Hmmm, don't they all? Old Garden Roses, especially Chinas, have some resistance to nematodes so they can be grown on their own roots. (I have 100+ roses, mostly own root.) And it has been found that nematodes don't like organic matter and heavy mulch including concrete slabs & foundations, so organics is the route I take for nematode deterrence with OGRs like Teas, Noisettes and polyanthas that aren't 100% China. I incorporate a lot of composted horse manure and pine fines (close to 50%) into the bed before planting and topdress every spring with composted horse manure on top of the old mulch and add new mulch. (I didn't know that clay could be obtained and added to the soil when I did my beds, but if I were starting over, I would try to get some for water and nutrient retention. I don't know what type of clay is preferred.) This year I've started watering daily with a micro system for 30 minutes in the early morning. When I watered every other day, my bushes stayed almost leafless all summer even with thick mulch. So! Which roses? Louis Philippe is the best, a beautiful red/pink flower with cherry candy scent. Easy care, virtually no BS. Another China that I love is Le Vesuve along with Jean Bach Sisley & Old Blush. Teas are great. They love the heat and come in a variety of colors and bloom forms. Some favorites are Maman Cochet, General Schablikine, Mrs B R Cant, Anna Olivier, Duchesse de Brabant, Madame Antoine Mari, and many more. The Bermuda Roses work well. I like Carnation. Noisettes and Tea-Noisettes are generally climbers that like heat and tolerate our humidity. They get fairly huge here. Cile Brunner Spray, LeMarne & Perle d'Or do very well in Florida. I have had less success with Hybrid Musks probably because of my soil pH and they tend not to like heat & afternoon sun. For climbers Don Juan does well enough here but does get BS. Mine is on Fortuniana. I have own root Sally Holmes & Pink Perpetue, both are recommended by Latimer Farr along with New Dawn, Sombreuil & Clair Matin. The short Bourbons in the Souv de la Malmaison clan do well albeit with some BS but have beautiful flowers and extended blooming, and Farr says Maggie does well, too. I found that Maggie got more BS than I could handle so she's gone, but you have to establish a tolerance level for that. Hope this is helpful. I hear the soil in South Florida can be really shallow on top of limestone. What's your situation? Hi, lagomorphmom! Sherry

I can tell you my experiences container-gardening bell peppers and jalapenos in Houston. I directly sow my seeds into small cheap pots, then transplant into large buckets with holes drilled in the bottom. For bell peppers: I keep the plant in partial shade year-round. I have a hanging system for them--the plant grows out of the bottom of a bucket hanging from the eve of my duplex. The pepper plant is 18 months old (no freeze last winter) and has given me several crops of peppers. I may start moving it to full sun in the Fall. For jalapenos: Right now, my jalapeno plants are in full sun. But the temperatures are only hitting the low to mid 90's. When it gets above 100, I'll move them to a shaded spot (using a cheap enclosure I made out of some leftover Ikea plastic shelving). Also: I cover the top of my jalapeno plants with compost (as the forum FAQ recommends) to help prevent the soil from drying out as quickly. We can get a lot of rain here, and my plants seem to tolerate it. One of my jalapeno plants did lose a bunch of flowers in a storm, and I think it will stay dormant until Fall. This happens a lot when we have very hot summers--my bell pepper and tomato plants stops producing when temperatures stay over 100, but will perk back up in late August. Last year I got a late summer crop, a February crop, and now they are going non-stop :).

I have an Anna Apple that grows vertically. It only gets a bit of sun every day since it's between an orange and avocado tree. But it still produces great fruit. Training apples is really easy to do, you can even prune them to a single stick that will keep making apples every year. Others I'd recommend are figs and tropical guavas. They can be pruned to almost any shape.

Hot and ARID, yes. Humid, no. It quickly outgrew a fifteen gallon can, hit the soil under it and took off running. It performed as a climber, producing very long, incredibly prickly wands which performed like a climber in that garden. We finally tied it into stakes driven into the ground and trained it like the climber it wanted to be. I can't suggest what the black spot resistance might be in the type of conditions you describe, but it had pretty good resistance in 10b Los Angeles.