Is it really the same as minwax?

last year

hi all- i have a question about hardwood stains.

I’m putting in red oak flooring to match existing red oak in the house. I asked my floor guy to try out a duraseal neutral and country white stain mix (3:1 ratio). he told me this is pretty much the exact formula for minwax pickled oak and wants to just do that instead. is this correct?

As an aside, I really had my heart set on doing a different stain combo (bona nordic seal and bona hd traffic) but he said he’s not confortable working with bona products…..

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Comments (10)

millworkman
last year
last modified: last year
No idea, have him do sample boards. Minwax is typically considered an inferior DIY product in general and most flooring pro's use higher quality products.
ci_lantro
last year
Minwax is bottom of the barrel stain, IMO.
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Thanks for your reply, so at least I know it should dry somewhat, we had a hot day and the finish felt a bit better, I used 400 wet sand paper on a block of wood followed by 000 synthetic steel wool, to rub down the stain a bit so it is not as thick, and hopefully cure better.. adding some water too I have alot of control. It brought back some of the grain details in areas that are too thick. At this point I am going to continue with the finishing without stripping. The pillar is the solid oak, it has not been rubbed yet but but it might become too light if I do. With this minwax stain, there was just no way I could achieve this level of color without glazing and dry brushing, at least on oak. I wish I researched more and used a more professional stain product that gives less headache, the repeated coats really left alot of bubbles and particles.. hopefully the layers of clear coat will embed and give a flat surface and hide the imperfections a bit. Note this is the english chestnut color and I had originally not planned to go this dark but the uneven tone of the stain kind of lead me to this. I am going to use a spray can sanding sealer that dries in 15-30 minutes it should not be enough time interact with the finish, especially if I left the stain cure for longer.
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First I want to qualify my comments by stating that I'm no expert in wood finishing. Most of what I know, I've learned from reading posts on other woodworking sites. I don't know the specific chemistry of what is in the Minwax Antique oil, but you can make something very similar by yourself with readily available ingredients. The alkyd resins are a key ingredient found in standard varnish. The thinner is probably nothing more than mineral spirits. Try mixing equal parts varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. The varnish provides a measure of protection, the linseed oil gives an amber tint that helps bring out the grain and the mineral spirits act as a thinner to make application easier. This finish is made to be wiped on with a rag, let set for a few minutes, then wipe the excess off. A gloss varnish works best, because satin & semi gloss varnish contain flatteners that require constant stirring to keep in suspension and can make the mixture appear cloudy. I've only used this recipe on small items and can't vouch for it's quality as a floor finish. Before using this on your floor, test it on some scraps or in an inconspicuous place, such as underneath furiture or an appliance to make sure it works for you. Good luck.
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HU-913321892
Original Author
last year
Thats the sense im getting from houzz. what makes it inferior? im a little worried cus every time i mention a stain he comes back with some minwax equivalent…
Mrs. S
last year
last modified: last year
I think you chose the wrong flooring guy. Time to find another, or at least investigate further. If it were me, I'd rather spend a little more to get the color I wanted, whether that meant doing samples 3 or 4 times, or paying extra for the person who has worked with everything and knows how to achieve what you want. I mean that I would respect the tradesperson's input as to choice of product, but it better not be because Minwax is the only product that person is comfortable with. That's not good enough, and it shouldn't be good enough for you.
HU-913321892
Original Author
last year
@Mrs. S you’re prob right….im so not assertive/confrontational so it’s hard for me to fire someone but he really seems like he only does minwax and doesnt seem open to trying much….
seagreen3
last year
I don’t think having had your heart set on Bona is an “aside”—it should be the main point.

Take a deep breath and let the flooring person know you’ve decided to go in a different direction than is his expertise. Then go find someone who does Bona.

How sad it would be to live with (and pay for) a finish you didn’t want, simply to avoid disappointing the first flooring person you consulted.
HU-913321892
Original Author
last year
So how does this work if i decide he isnt the guy to stain my floors? he already fixed the subfloor, scraped, did some repairs and put down the new floor. if i tell him im getting someone else to stain, im assuming we pay him less than the original quoted price? i just feel funny because perhaps he wouldnt have taken the job if he knew he wasnt going to be doing the staining….not sure what my question here is lol
seagreen3
last year
Did you sign a contract? Even from your questions here, it seems hard for you to be clear about what you want and to not be dismissive of yourself. But you’re in charge of what you do, including whether or not you decide to take this advice:
If you haven’t signed a contract and can pay your current person for work done so far, do so. Before you hire someone else, think long and hard about everything you really want (all the details) and how to be clear and firm about it, so you’ll hire better next time. Then you’ll not only get the floor you want, but also better communication/assertiveness skills.
Remodeling is never really only about the house.
HU-913321892
Original Author
last year
Absolutely agree with you here. I am also now a more educated consumer so I can higher better this time around. Thanks foe talking this through!
HU-913321892
Original Author
last year
*hire

Is it really the same as minwax?

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millworkman

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