it depends on the spacing used between the glass. there are vinyl sweeps that slide onto the edge of the glass similar to the one that should have been used along the bottom and actually top. problem with these are that they take away from the 'frameless' look even thought they are clear plastic. how long has it been since you had this installed? Here is a link that might be useful: vinyl sweep

I see the indents now. I wouldn't try to remove the aluminum piece from the glass. Instead, I would use a Dremel and carefully grind away the lip on the aluminum channel (on the side closest to the handle). It appears that if you can grind the aluminum next to the steel piece that the rusted bit would lift out with some gently prying or slide out the end... Then clean up the rest of the aluminum with a file so you have a straight edge. Any idea of what you're going to replace it with?

To Op- sometimes a cheaply made bypass door will lift off the rollers because of the thin glass the manufacturer used. I have seen doors with 1/8” glass. I never recommended anything less than 3/16, but preferred 1/4” or 3/8. For top of the line, I used 1/2”. Be sure you see and feel theses different thicknesses of glass. Physically, the bypass doors stay in the space because of gravity; they hang on the top track. Therefore, any lifting motion will cause them to come off. One solution is a heavier door. You might look at a 3/8” glass frameless bypass unit. The edges of the glass will be polished, the only metal is attached to your walls so you still have the clean look. In addition, this configuration does use any floor space as a swing/ hinge door does. Again, a good glass company with floor displays will be able to offer you options.

A real photo would help here. For me, at least, the video clip actually makes it harder to really see what's going on. I assume your problem is that what appears to be a pivot at lower right has broken loose from the glass door. Is that correct? One of the challenges here is to re-bond that pivot in exactly the right place for the door to close properly. You have only once chance to get it right. If I were going to try to fix this myself, I'd probably start by ordering a new pivot and some of the factory adhesive from the company that made the door. There's no adhesive in the world that will hold unless the glass and pivot inside are factory-clean. I'd mark the current hinge position carefully, remove the door from the shower, clean the glass thoroughly (somehow keeping the position mark intact, darned if I know how), and then bond the new pivot following the manufacturer's instructions carefully. I think what I'd be more inclined to do is mark the pivot position, remove the door, and take it to a good local glass shop to be repaired by someone who knows his stuff better than I do. I might even try to order a complete new door from the factory. Whatever you do, make sure you know what you're doing. As others have pointed out, that's a mighty darn big and heavy chunk of glass to have fall and break when you're standing dripping wet and buck-naked next to it.