I can answer one of my own questions after reading the DriCore FAQ. It states to not apply any waterproofing sealer to the concrete. It also makes this statement regarding tile: "Tile - DRIcore is designed to act as a floating subfloor. It is not recommended that ceramic tile be directly attached to DRIcore as the movement of the floating subfloor will cause tile and grout lines to crack. In the case of a ceramic installation, prepare concrete floor by applying liquid concrete leveling compound to the concrete floor surface to eliminate concrete floor height variances. Fasten each DRIcore panel with four, flat head and countersunk, concrete fasteners to the permanent concrete floor to prevent movement or shifting of the finished ceramic tile floor. Dab silicone in the fastener openings to seal these holes. DRIcore panels must lay perfectly flat without bounce or deflection. Install a ¼" underlayment or ½" cement board suitable for ceramic tile installations on top of DRIcore. Follow the underlayment manufacturerÂs installation guidelines for fastening to a subfloor. Please note that we also do not recommend gluing underlayments or other wood flooring materials to DRIcore. "

"never heard of Ditra! glad i'm on here. I expect there is a pine board subfloor under there somewhere. I intend to reuse it. The ditra just goes on top of that, right?" Unfortunately, no. Pine boards, though probably pretty darn stable by now, can still move a bit either through flex or seasonal humidity changes. So you need a transition material between the planks and the cement board or Ditra. That transitional material is usually plywood. If using SLC, a typical flow would be: Your pine planking, fasten it down securely. Then 1/2" plywood over that, then set your heating mats. Then use a garden sprayer to spray the SLC primer on the subfloor and heating wires. You don't need to use a garden sprayer, but it does coat everything very nicely. Then SLC. Then you can tile right over the SLC, or Ditra over the SLC and tile over the Ditra. I do recommend a self-leveling material over the radiant wires. It simply makes it easier to get a nice level surface upon which to tile. Some folks set the wire mats in place then trowel thinset over the mat, trying to get it fairly flat. Sometimes it works, sometimes they end up with incomplete coverage, a honeycomb of voids, and/or a messy and unflat surface. That will frustrate you when it comes time to tile. SLC is not mandatory by any means. But if your ability to trowel thinset into a nice flat surface is somewhat challenged, then using SLC can make your life a little easier. If you use SLC, realize...as the name implies, it is "self-leveling". It will flow wherever you allow it to flow. Through cracks in the floor, down the toilet waste flange, under the baseboards. So you need to contain it from flowing wherever you do not want it to go. And don't forgo a bonding primer for the SLC. The primer helps it adhere to the subfloor. If you do use SLC, have all your ducks in a row. Have a helper. Once you start you don't stop midway through the job. Lastly, whatever method you use: If you use cement board, the cement board gets a coat of thinset between it and whatever it goes over. So many people omit that step and it results in cracked grout and lose tiles a few years down the road. The thinset isn't there to bond the cement board to the plywood beneath it. The fasteners (screws or nails) do that. The thinset simply acts as a setting bed to provide complete contact between the cement board and the plywood underneath it, so there is no vertical movement between the two when the floor is walked upon. I won't really critique your work flow because we all have different methods of working. But how about ventilation? Any bathroom vent?

Don't forget demo ;) Sorry, I couldn't resist. Prior to sheetrock, also do the HVAC-- venting for the stove/range. After sheetrock, you have a couple big things left to do and there are different ways of proceeding. Some people do the flooring prior to the cabinets, others install the cabinets first and then do the flooring. I tend to do as much priming and painting as early as possible (right after sheetrock). I also like doing the flooring before the cabinets, so that you can move cabinets later and not have to worry about the flooring (however, this option is more expensive because you have flooring under your cabinets). Painting: -priming -first coat of paint on walls -install trim -prime and paint trim -final painting of walls Install floors Install cabinets Install countertops and fixtures. If you need inspections, make sure you understand when the city wants to do the inspections. If you don't need inspections, do the inspections yourself. Make sure the plumbing, electrical, HVAC works before you close up the walls. Finally, my only other advice is to make sure the whole family is aware of the order of operations. My DW had no idea when I started the bathroom remodel. Then came along our second child. The bathroom was usuable in 6 months, but it was 3 years until the bathroom was totally done. Suffice it to say, my DW is very worried about me doing the kitchen. Of course, I think I can do our kitchen in 3-4 months, including making the countertops, but then again my sign on is overlyoptimistic for a reason... Todd

SORRY! I Just saw there is now a separate bathroom forum. Here is a link that might be useful: I moved the post (link below)