Directions for use should be on the package. These people produce a large number of products that are quite expensive, so it depends on just which one you have what to do with it. For example 4 pounds of the All Purpose Fertilizer, according to the manufacturer, is supposed to cover 150 square feet. You just broadcast in over that measured area.

The more sun you can give the plant the better. I understand you're limited but as much as you can will really help your plant, as well as help your soil to not stay wet for so long. As long as it's well draining you should be ok, but don't water again if the soil feels damp. Marie is right about the fertilizer, that helps a tremendous amount too. I think once the temps start getting below about 60-65 degrees you should stop watering and find a place to let them go dormant. Keep us posted!

I have a couple dozen DR's, some from seed, others grafted and some purchased as mature plants. When the seedlings are very small I treat them more as tropicals and keep them well watered. After a couple months I allow the soil to dry between waterings. I keep them quite root bound and when I do transplant I raise them up about an inch to expose more of the enlarging caudex. Most of mine go dormant over the winter. I cut way back on watering, just enough to keep the roots from drying out, maybe once every 6-8 weeks but I keep them warmer then my dormant plumerias.

Marco, Please don't feel overwhelmed. Here is a link so you at least know what Dyna Grow is: http://www.spraysmarter.com/catalog/product/view/id/34216/.html?gclid=CLvomqOlv80CFVBhfgod2Z8Ohw Here is a quickie on fertilization that I recently posted on another thread: Adeniums should be fertilized via bottom watering weekly at 1/4 strength (or less) with one or both of two formulations, in alternating weekly applications: NPK 20-20-20 / 14-14-14 / 10-10-10 for leaf and overall root development and NPK where the P formulation is higher, such as NPK 6-12-6 (tomato food), for bloom development. I use 20-20-20 once a month and tomato food the other three weeks of the month at 1/4 strength. Never splash the leaves with fertilizer ... it will burn the leaves. In terms of all the rest: 1. Get some fast draining cactus soil and mix it 1/2 & 1/2 with perlite. Home Depot sells perlite in large bags. I used to get smaller bags and a great cactus mix at my local florist shop. 2. The reason why you should never use an oversized pot is that all that extra soil will stay wet longer, increasing the chance of rot. You will do best to leave about 1.5 inches of free space all the way around the fattest part of the caudex to allow for growth. 3. The longer the roots are underground, the bigger they will grow. Place a little more than half of that baby under soil. Water in and leave it for a week. Don't fertilize right away. 4. After a week, stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil to determine whether it needs watering. Only water when the soil feels dry 2" down. When you do water, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes. Never let the pot sit on a saucer of water. Usually, once a week during the summer is sufficient. However, it depends on several factors, including climate, pot, soil, etc. Clay pots are great because they breathe, but require more watering. Test the soil with your finger until you can determine the correct watering schedule for your particular tree. 5. Move slowly into direct sunlight over the course of 2 weeks. Give it 2 weeks because we don't want to shock the little guy. 6. Fertilize at 1/4 strength or less. Never fertilize a dry plant. Water one day then bottom fertilize the next. Try to get a schedule going. Most of us do this on the weekend when we have more time. *** Another common rule of thumb is to never water on cloudy, rainy days. The reasoning is you want the heat of the sun to evaporate some of the water so the substrate doesn't stay excessively moist.