Arlan We had the Engage Genesis flooring installed in our new home toward the end of 2017. The floor was fine for about a year and a half. After that, the planks started separating in a number of different spots. I contacted the manufacturer through their customer service link and they suggested filing a complaint through the company we purchased it from so they could send out an inspector to figure out what was happening. The inspection was done in October of 2020. The manufacturer sent a letter to the company we bought it from saying it was an installation problem. After a year and a half???? We have heard nothing since, so I guess we are supposed to just live with a floor that is falling apart?

At this point, the job ($4/sf for a BIG job with LOTS of things to do = awesome price) is finished. The cure is going to be worse than the disease. I'm a big fan of "Wait until you have a problem before throwing money/time at it." It is the cheapest solution I know of (I'm a pragmatist...who is both cheap AND lazy ;-P). My advice is this: leave it alone. Keep 10% 'extra' of the flooring product (roughly 75sf or to the nearest box). This will offer you the peace of mind and the material security you will need to feel secure. You will keep it in the back of your mind. You will know that IF something goes wrong you have ALL THE PRODUCT needed to repair/replace the damaged planks. With a laminate floor I wouldn't worry to much about a bit of bounce. People have 'put up with' bouncing laminate floors for 20 years (the SAME laminate they installed 20 years prior). That tells me the click system is fine. Your floor is a rigid vinyl (8mm thick = nice product). The rigidity of the core will help keep everything stable. The only weak point (as in everything in life) is the link (click edge) between one plank and another. This is the one and only place things *might go wrong. Now to be blunt, a rigid vinyl floor like yours can be taken apart and, "in theory", be clicked back together - BUT I don't like that idea. I really don't. We know the click-edge is delicate. We know that. We've seen them brake by grazing the ground before being installed. A vinyl floor that has been disassembled has a STRONG likelihood of DAMAGED edges. If the edge is damaged then there is almost no way you will get them back together. That means you will have to assume 25% damage should you choose to 'unzip' this floor to the point where it bounces. That leaves you with 75% intact flooring with 25% garbage planks (which must be replaced). As soon as you try to fix the subfloor underneath (by removing the flooring) you will have lost the 'intact' floor. You are guaranteed to spend MORE time, MORE money and MORE materials to deal with this. Compare that to 'leave it alone'. Right now you have 100% intact flooring. Every day you wake up to 100% intact floor is another day with a perfectly functional floor. Every day you have 100% intact floor is another day you have SAVED time, money and materials. Simply leave this floor alone until something MAKES you repair it. Keep your 5%-10% extra on hand for future repairs (and there will be future repairs). Use them if and when you need them.

Thanks so much for the detailed advice, @SJ McCarthy! I do have 3 extra boxes and then some, and so far pulling them up isn't seeming too difficult to do but I'm sure we'll run into some issues :-) The condo rules aren't very specific: 80% of floors must be carpet or area rugs - we have carpet in the bedrooms and someone on the board told me that LVP with an underlay is fine; this one has a pre-attached pad. But thanks for brining it up - I do want to run it by them once more to be sure before we totally finalize things. When you say "a little grinding PLUS a little leveling compound" are you referring to self leveling compound? It does seem to me that SL would be the best way to easily get a good level. We've worked with some patching material (Henry 345) on a few spots, and it has the appeal of potentially being simpler than SL up front (doesn't have to be mixed and doesn't require primer), but it's more expensive for covering a given area, and doesn't level itself. I'm still trying to figure out if we can reasonably apply self leveler to just a portion of the room, and I'm thinking mainly that will require that there is indeed a consistent "low" spot / sink so that the SL doesn't run out into the areas we don't want to repair. That does seem to be the case, but I need to really spend the time with a level to fully map it out. Thanks again!

All the grout lines need to be filled and the floor flat to within 1/8" over 10'. Vinyl loves to telegraph every imperfection and those grout joints will do that in short order.