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What was built is not likely to meet the building code anywhere but you need to ask the local building department what your code says and look at what is on the permit drawings while you are there. For reference, the 2012 IRC says: SECTION R317 PROTECTION OF WOOD AND WOOD BASED PRODUCTS AGAINST DECAY R317.1 Location required. Protection of wood and wood based products from decay shall be provided in the following locations by the use of naturally durable wood or wood that is preservative-treated in accordance with AWPA U1 for the species, product, preservative and end use. Preservatives shall be listed in Section 4 of AWPA U1. 1. Wood joists or the bottom of a wood structural floor when closer than 18 inches (457 mm) or wood girders when closer than 12 inches (305 mm) to the exposed ground in crawl spaces or unexcavated area located within the periphery of the building foundation. 2. All wood framing members that rest on concrete or masonry exterior foundation walls and are less than 8 inches (203 mm) from the exposed ground. 3. Sills and sleepers on a concrete or masonry slab that is in direct contact with the ground unless separated from such slab by an impervious moisture barrier. 4. The ends of wood girders entering exterior masonry or concrete walls having clearances of less than 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) on tops, sides and ends. 5. Wood siding, sheathing and wall framing on the exterior of a building having a clearance of less than 6 inches (152 mm) from the ground or less than 2 inches (51 mm) measured vertically from concrete steps, porch slabs, patio slabs, and similar horizontal surfaces exposed to the weather. 6. Wood structural members supporting moisture-permeable floors or roofs that are exposed to the weather, such as concrete or masonry slabs, unless separated from such floors or roofs by an impervious moisture barrier. 7. Wood furring strips or other wood framing members attached directly to the interior of exterior masonry walls or concrete walls below grade except where an approved vapor retarder is applied between the wall and the furring strips or framing members. R317.1.1 Field treatment. Field-cut ends, notches and drilled holes of preservative-treated wood shall be treated in the field in accordance with AWPA M4. R317.1.2 Ground contact. All wood in contact with the ground, embedded in concrete in direct contact with the ground or embedded in concrete exposed to the weather that supports permanent structures intended for human occupancy shall be approved pressure-preservative-treated wood suitable for ground contact use, except untreated wood may be used where entirely below groundwater level or continuously submerged in fresh water. R317.1.3 Geographical areas. In geographical areas where experience has demonstrated a specific need, approved naturally durable or pressure-preservative-treated wood shall be used for those portions of wood members that form the structural supports of buildings, balconies, porches or similar permanent building appurtenances when those members are exposed to the weather without adequate protection from a roof, eave, overhang or other covering that would prevent moisture or water accumulation on the surface or at joints between members. Depending on local experience, such members may include: 1. Horizontal members such as girders, joists and decking. 2. Vertical members such as posts, poles and columns. 3. Both horizontal and vertical members. R317.1.4 Wood columns. Wood columns shall be approved wood of natural decay resistance or approved pressure-preservative-treated wood. Exceptions: 1. Columns exposed to the weather or in basements when supported by concrete piers or metal pedestals projecting 1 inch (25.4 mm) above a concrete floor or 6 inches (152 mm) above exposed earth and the earth is covered by an approved impervious moisture barrier. 2. Columns in enclosed crawl spaces or unexcavated areas located within the periphery of the building when supported by a concrete pier or metal pedestal at a height more than 8 inches (203 mm) from exposed earth and the earth is covered by an impervious moisture barrier.

The shapes, proportion and scale of the house in the photo are very challenging. The house is symmetrical, but the gable in the center does not have the same shape, pitch or fascia detail. The proportions of the house make adding a porch form (roof) challenging, as PPF suggests. Finally the scale of the porch and any columns should be sympathetic to the rest of the house. The columns in the first photo are much too small, while those in the second and third photos are much to bulky. A very careful study is need to see if and how a sympathetic porch may be added. If it was my house, I might be looking at a horizontal arbor or trellis type porch with appropriate detailed and scaled columns, rather than any sort of pitched roof. Google porch trellis or arbor for ideas. Good luck on your project.

OB2B, the house has a "garage" but we finished the interior, inc. wiring, drywall, over five years of weekends and the garage was storage, then was too small for our vehicles. Our second priority over the next couple years became building the barn, pasture fencing, and a hay shed so we could move here full time. We parked outside but the horses were all set! When our adult daughter visits, she uses a blow up mattress in the office, and we love the interior spaces as is. Our living room is basically a sunroom in the summer. Several years ago, we met with an architect, drew detached garages with walkways, attached garages with living space above. We priced them and mulled priorities and here we are. We get a lot of snow, you're right, the porch roof will have to accomodate the snow slide off the gable roof above it. I gather it would be much harder to tear part of the existing roof off to extend it, as cp thought about, than to slide a new roof right under it. Plus, our main roof is corregated asphalt and DH wants metal over the porch. It will be more like the left porch but picture the porch roof attaching to the house right under the gable overhang, not an extension. I gather. Our first thoughts were indeed something like on the right. What do you think about the setback idea to clear the l.r. windows?