I would second IKEA with Barker or Semihandmade if your design is simple - focus on spending your money on the doors and end panels / customizations - but IIRC it's a little more complicated and may need custom sizes.

(of course better yet if you could use an IKEA door selection)

I appreciate all the suggestions! What I'm reacting to is the expected increase in price over what I was told the ballpark would be (fyi, 60-75 was the ballpark, which to me is already a large amount of money--and having reno'd a kitchen and other rooms with cabinets, I thought I knew how much they cost). I might have anticipated a 10% increase, not 15-30%. As far as choosing white oak, if the KD or the architect had taken a moment and said "what you want is one of the most expensive options, just making sure you're aware, etc etc" but that didn't happen.

(There are other examples of times when that should have happened with the architect, imo. Eg, I would have liked to hear, "this cantilever we drew will require A LOT OF STEEL which is $$$." I'm not an engineer, so I need to rely on the experts around me for this kind of information.)

If I take each increase in isolation, sure, over the life of the kitchen, it's "just" X per year--but add up all the increases for each thing in the house, and that is a hefty X.

Fwiw, since it was mentioned, my annual clothing and hair budget is pretty insignificant, and I rarely eat out. I already allocate most of that to this neverending project. 😁 I'm not on instagram so i'm not sure I could even identify an "instagram kitchen," but I do remember when everyone wanted a kitchen like the one in the movie Something's Gotta Give. I had to find some images in order to guide the design process, but there is no single image that I'm trying to model the kitchen after. The picture I have in my head is based on knowing what I like and what I find useful.

This house has a lot of white oak cabinets--not just the kitchen cabinets, but other built-ins that will be made by the builder's local person, as well as stain-grade oak interior doors. If I learn that the kitchen cabinets raise the cost of the millwork exponentially, I will most likely change the wood species throughout the house. It's a modern house, in that there's no door/window trim (drywall returns), and the kitchen cabinets will have slab doors, whether they're painted or wood. If wood veneers are the way to do slab doors, as someone has mentioned, that may be why that cab line was recommended initially, but the veneer stains don't look like wood to me. (For painted cabs, I'm fine with painted, not stained. The painted cabs I have now are not stained, and yet the brush strokes are visible. I think we're talking about different things there.)

I think it's best if I can stay with the current KD, so I'll see what kind of proposal they come up with and take it from there. Thank you all for the reality check!

"Brush strokes" WILL NOT come from any cabinet company. Brush stroke usually means a Home Joe project. : ) Make sure you aren't referring to seeing grain. A completely different thing , entirely.

You want an organic/modern kitchen , that you're unwilling to pay 2023 dollars for.

You can cheat in other places, get a look you love in many ways.......baths....laundry.

But the very specific look you want is disconnected from your budget, from "ballpark" which is just that give or take TWENTY percent.

It's pony up or adjust. the longer you wait, the higher the price. As yes........it will go up.

@JAN MOYER looking at the cabs in my current kitchen, I probably am not describing what I mean by brush strokes. I think the term for it is "painterly" finish. Anyway, it's not the grain, and it's not a terrible paint job, it's a painted finish on high quality cabs that have a sort of antiqued look, which gives them the appearance of some texture and dimensionality rather than flat and uniform paint. It's a more rustic look. While "rustic modern" is not impossible to imagine, it's probably not right for the new house, but it works well in my current house. Don't assume I'm trying to get something for nothing, or high quality for an unreasonably low cost; believe me there is nothing low-cost about this project (I would, however, appreciate "cost-effective," but that also seems like a stretch in the current economy). I've come to understand that I can't rely on the architect for realistic cost information, but I thought I could rely on the KD who actually sells the cabs. "Ballpark" to me means "somewhere between these numbers that I'm saying," not "plus 20-30%" However I've also come to understand that everyone who is supposed to be guiding this project--except the builder, thankfully--has a fantasy relationship with numbers.

"I'm planning on a combination of natural oak and painted cabinets in my kitchen..."

A company called The Cabinet Face makes wood doors for IKEA cabinets. Its Natural Wood Slabs include five oaks including Brushed White Oak. It also sells doors with a "Eurocore" effect the edges of which resemble plywood. Perhaps you could combine these wood doors withstandard IKEA painted doors (IKEA has a few slab styles) to keep costs down.

@2 rickies

If you'll forgive the analogy: Someone is desperate to see a particular performer. Tickets are available. Priced in sections, rows, and the closer to orchestra center one sits? The higher the ticket price. NO estimate is accurate, until layout, actual door/drawer finish is firmly selected and priced to that layout. It includes trims, toe kicks , all the pieces and parts to that layout.

In fairness to the KD ? It's not that she was "way off" ..........you simply don't like the finishes that keep you in range of the ballpark. . The oak looks too plastic, or too orange, the paint is too uniformly smooth. Regarding paint? The "painterly" effect you describe is not what would work with the oak cabinets such as in your inspo ......in slab especially. A stain in a color? Okay, perhaps. You may even be describing a glazed door from decades ago and that doesn't work in your dream kitchen , either.

Allowances, ballparks, estimates...for any room in the home, are just "sort of" numbers until one fills in the actual elements and their price tags, because the range is just too wide for ANY element. A 249.00 dollar lamp, or a 1249.00 lamp? The rug? Same..........

What you really want ? The custom cabinet shop where YOU provide the sample of the exact oak finish you want. YOU take a scrap of white oak, and you go "play" in the hardware store. You hand it to the KD with "this is IT" and you also provide the actual shade of blue. The KD sends to the cab company, and they send back to the kd the samples for approval of what they will produce. Custom to you.

What should have happened here at the start, and even before you had the final layout?

" Show me your finishes please, Ms. KD. , I want to verify we are on the same page, with regards to my kitchen." It did not happen soon enough.

Instead?

"but since they knew pretty much" what I wanted in a cabinet, I think they should have been able to tell me that I wouldn't find it in what they consider their less expensive cabinets".

So, "pretty much" they provided, and "pretty much" you hate it. Now it is up to you. Pay and get more? Or don't. It's pretty much, just that : )

I'm sure the op thinks we're beating her up. We're not. We even get the frustration that arose from too little communication, too many assumptions early on in building process.

For those who wander here? Assume not . one. thing. ever. It's a visual business and one of math in a thousand ways.

You can't do this:

"I'm finally at the point where it's time to look at door samples, and guess what, I didn't like any of them in the cab line the KD had in mind."

All minds: Yours. the KD, architect, interior designer, builder........every last person involved must be on same page. Nobody but nobody will read your mind accurately minus visual and verbal and written communication, and subsequent written affirmation of what you just communicated.

That's the deal. Sucks? Welllll......yeah. : )

Do you have pics of the paint finish you have in mind? It may help the pros help you know how to communicate what you are looking for.

Will you consider something other than slab doors? I think that is part of the issue as they are usually a veneer for stability.

This is the detail on the new IKEA European Oak door.

and drawer front.

Hello and let me give you a dose of compassion. You have a refined eye and sophisticated taste. You key in on details, notice color, and shade. It is likely that the designer and architect don't really encounter customers like you everyday and their recommendations are for what happily works for most people.

It sounds like you may be the kind of person who unintentionally goes for the most expensive thing in a store just because you recognize quality and not because you are a prima donna who likes extensive trendy things. (Or maybe I'm projecting my life on to you!) This is my story and as such, I do a tremendous amount of homework and ask to see lots of samples of things immediately and up front. I don't trust that anybody's opinion of what looks like quality is going to match mine. So I don't think anyone is at fault here and you just need a good plan for how to move forward.

Don't sacrifice your taste by getting doors that look cheap to you. Others have suggested good alternatives here and I think you have an idea that you may have to make major changes to the project. I think you should also get a quote from the local millworker who is doing the rest of your custom woodwork throughout. It could be insane, but it could also be more reasonable than the highend choice you are given. And, is the KD's time really wasted? I presume they came up with a good layout and cabinet sizes that will translate into other lines yes?

Lastly, no matter who you think about going with for your cabinets, before you get an estimate get finish samples that you can hold, touch, feel, see in different lights and alongside other samples. And FWIW, I get the brush stroke finish you are talking about and it sounds like an expensive custom job. Some of those painterly finishes can look really cheap and faux, and sometimes they look really good and were done by a high end company. To me it is more of a traditional look and I am surprised you want that in a home that seems more contemporary.

We are about to have a custom millworker come measure for cabinets and this post is reminding me that I have to ask him to bring samples of painted doors with him so I can see and feel the finish. THANK YOU!

Raimondi "According to Ikea customer service, those are not manufactured in Europe, so those would not be European oak. They are standard North American oak."

Two Customer Service personnel could not find information on Country of Origin for me. One noted the products are only available in North America. Nike Karlsson is the designer. I'm doing more research.

These are solid oak legs. 4 3/8" x 3 1/8" x 2" Link. 2/$110. If you're familiar with N.A. white and red oak rift cut lumber, the 90-degree face will show as flat cut with prominent dark open grain. These don't show that. They have a tinted clear acrylic finish. These and the other solid oak parts I've seen do not show the color or objectionable grain of N.A. oak species. That's important to me.

15 to 30% more for a specific material would seem perfectly "ballpark" to me.

According to Ikea customer service, those are not manufactured in Europe, so those would not be European oak. They are standard North American oak.

First, you can get imported lumber... my rather small hardwood supplier has a rather large section marked "Exotics," none of which were grown in America. It also has European Oak.

Next, European Oak can be grown in America. Hardwoods are typically harvested from the areas that they grow the fastest. However, European Oak grows slower which results in tighter growth rings. To grow European Oak in the U.S. you just grow it (Quercus Robur) in the Southwest.

The Cabinet Place European Rift Sawn Oak Natural Wood Slab on IKEA Sektion kitchen cabinets

My 2 cents...

A few manufacturers will do a brushed effect paint finish. I have never seen it on any type of natural finish and can't imagine it looking good. I strongly urge you to reconsider that desire, it just isn't going to turn out well. Neither will any other type of textured finish effect as they tend to look faux and that is because they too often are.

Breaking out the additional cost into a monthly amount is a great way to see if a necessary extra charge is worth it, but isn't sufficient to determine if the charge is necessary. In other words, you picked the line of cabinets that you did because they represented a certain value to you, now that they no longer represent that value, look for lines that do, before you decide to pay 15% to 30% more. It is entirely possible that you will find an acceptable finish in another line for only a bit more or even a bit less... or you may not and then you know that your best option is the 15% to 30% more.

Generally speaking for cabinets quality increases as price does, however, value usually decreases as price does. Here is the real bad news... $120,000 cabinets are not three times better quality than $40,000 cabinets. Additionally, cabinet manufacturers often engage in premium pricing strategies where they take a product worth $50,000 and refuse to sell it for less than $100,000. Everyone convinces themselves that they are a better product and suddenly worth it. This phenomenon is well researched and documented with all kinds of products. Quality cabinets for a moderate sized kitchen can be produced for far less than $100,000, they may be a struggle to find, but you can find good quality at a reasonable price.

Up front I will admit to not reading everyone's comments.

Was there a door style and finish that your designer had that fits your vision? Did you have that priced out to really know what the price will be? That is where I would start. In the mean time, look for another showroom and find a manufacturer who does the brush stroke highlight you are looking for. Off the top of my head, Greenfield cabinetry does both . Then get an estimate from another place. Then make your decisions.

Good luck!

@bry911 The painted cabinets are done on mdf, not wood, because it's more stable with temperature changes, so I wasn't thinking that I'd see wood grain or anything. I may have been reacting to what seemed like a lack of depth in the color samples I saw, and maybe also because a matte finish, which I'd normally like, but I think with a matte countertop, it would be okay to have a painted cabinet that has at least a slight sheen. Since I can choose the color for a painted cabinet, I also have a little more control over how it will look. It was really the "wood" cabinets that I saw as the problem because I prefer a natural wood look for those. And I get what you're saying about how the cabinets are valued; it makes a lot of sense!

I guess I'll have to revise my understanding of what "ballpark" means! In my current kitchen the cabinets are good quality but not a top luxury brand. They have held up well. (Natural cherry shaker cabs on perimeter, and painted beaded inset on island.) I would get cherry again, if I found out they were less $$ than QS white oak. I still like them a lot. At that time, I chose the cabinets I wanted and then found a KD who sold them. The KD was really terrible, and I basically designed the kitchen myself, but that was fine. This time, for a new build, I wanted an expert in kitchen design, so I went to the person my architect recommended who also had an excellent rep in general. It was my fault for not closely examining the cabinets at the time and making sure I liked them--I'm usually very detail-oriented (anyone surprised??). Because of the quality of her work, I assumed I'd like the cabinets--yes, that was foolish, I see that now. I think this KD knows her stuff but I also think the communication has not been up to par for a number of reasons. They never specifically assigned a cab line to the project, it was more like, "we think we can use this, or maybe that, we'll see." They all know that I'm cost-conscious, and I think they could have been more forthcoming about the cost differences between the various wood species, and the cab lines, even if they thought I'd be okay with the weird finishes on the less expensive cab line. But that is now in the past. When I get the actual prices, I'll have a better idea of how to manage the process from here.

I know a number of people who have used Ikea cabs and are happy with them and some very fancy architects who have incorporated them into interior finish work, but I don't want to upset the relationship with the KD if I don't need to. I think the next step, if necessary, will be to ask the builder to price them with his cabinet shop.

@Kendrah--thank you. You get me. 😂😭

@Debbi Washburn thanks for your advice. My bigger concern is the cost of the natural oak cabinets (rather than the painted cabinets--I didn't love what I saw of those, but that was a secondary issue and I think it's solved by choosing the color wisely). I'm waiting for the specific pricing now, so hopefully I'll have that soon and be able to see a path forward based on that.

For some reason I thought you wanted clearcoat, so again, many manufacturers will do a brushed effect. Just look around for a manufacturer who will do one at the quality level you are looking for. If you can find an example photo of your preferred finish type people might be able to help with manufacturer selections.

The painted cabinets are done on mdf, not wood, because it's more stable with temperature changes, so I wasn't thinking that I'd see wood grain or anything.

MDF is typically used because it is cheap and easy to paint, while it is more stable than wood boards, it is not any more stable than plywood, which is the alternative for any flat panel.

@bry911 Makes sense. My current painted cabinets are definitely plywood. I'm pretty sure the KD told me that the cab line she was showing me uses mdf for painted flat panels, and she made it sound like that was a good idea for stability. How to trust anything she says? Plywood may be an upgrade option. (And they'll be expensive either way, I'm sure.)

MDF for center panels is standard. Plywood is usually used to make the base underlayment. veneer will go over the top (on the sides and face front) Cabinet doors are usually MDF center panel w/solid wood rail/stiles (if you get a shaker type)

@Beth H. : what would be standard for painted slab doors?

I have posted on plywood vs. MDF a few times in the past. The long and short of it is that both plywood and MDF can be acceptable materials for quality cabinets. They have different strengths and weaknesses but those are largely immaterial if properly made and maintained.

The problem with either product is that they are just broad categories that really don't tell you anything. A good MR MDF is a rather affordable product and works great for most cabinets, while a cheap MDF isn't. Plywood comes in half a dozen different cores and some are just skinned MDF.

I would have no problem with MDF cabinets. I suspect that the upgrade to plywood is rarely worth it unless your cabinet needs to withstand impacts. E.g. in an isle where a roller cart is often used. So, as long as your isle isn't a runway and you are using a good quality cabinetmaker, MDF is fine.

@Raimondi "many people are surprised..." Yes, another thing it would have been nice to know before I agreed to go with a modern design. 😂😬

Simple is more expensive - you can't hide things with embellishments.

Think about the skill for a perfect drywall return vs covering the drywall with trim / molding...

Thought from a home-owner / consumer standpoint: it sounds like you are willing to bite the bullet but are reeling a bit from your expectations being frustrated. Maybe look through everything this KD you are working with offers--find what you really want, or realize they haven't got it--and get the real prices, not ballpark stuff like "maybe +30 percent". If you are willing to/able to/aren't too scared about frustrating their expectations, find another company that offers exactly what you want and get some prices there.

One of a few things things might happen next: you'll realize the quote from the KD isn't as bad as you feared; you'll realize that the competing quote is better and you'll feel empowered to jump ship; you'll realize KD's price is actually a deal compared to your alternative pick; you'll realize that the price is OK but a little high, and maybe the KD can suggest small adjustments to stay closer to budget. Or maybe there's some other finish in the house you'll realize you don't care about as much. In any case, you'll open up clearer communication with the KD about what you are looking for and your budget, which will move you closer to a good plan--or lay the groundwork for jumping ship without seeming flaky.

And.. it seems like you'll be a lot more comfortable once you have more information and know that people giving you advice understand what you're trying to do. I'm rather detail-oriented, and until I think I understand something well enough to understand the options and tradeoffs, I tend to be a nervous buyer. Perhaps you are the same way.

The simplest answer to your dilemma is to up your budget or to design for your budget.

A slab quarter-sawn White Oak door with a matte finish is custom. Slab Oak doors, especially when finished light, require a high-end fabricator to select just the right veneers to avoid mismatched finishes/grain from door to door. This is not a style that should be left to a budget custom shop.

Regarding slab doors, I agree w/ @Raimondi that you generally do not paint slab doors. At least I don't recommend it. I like Fenix but there are other matte laminates that will price less. You'll just be more limited in your color options.

Your kitchen won't be "wrong" if you change the look to accommodate your budget. So maybe go back to the original line that was priced and look at their painted options.

The Cabinet Face also manufactures slab doors in high-gloss, matt, and metallic acrylic in addition to wood.

@Wacky Tacky: "You are really recommending an Ikea door reseller with as many horror stories as they have?"

Did not recommend, just noted the availability. The OP wrote, "I have to believe there is a mid-priced option for white oak slab doors that look natural"; perhaps The Cabinet Face offers it.

You wrote the word "they" which is plural so I don't know whether you're referring only to The Cabinet Face or all third-party IKEA kitchen cabinet door manufacturers. You didn't provide links to "horror stories". There are a few positive reviews on houzz for The Cabinet Face.

From a guy who made a living doing this. I would ask my customer I would give them a couple magazines of different cabinets. Ask them to mark the pages. And try to think out of the box. Make it theirs like they would build what they liked. And do all I could to make it happen.

It might take a bit of thought n time but if you have it exactly like you want. You won't be thinking about it down the road. It's yours,

A local IKEA rep just got back to me with Hungary as the country where Vedhamn Oak cabinet options are produced. That rules out North American Oak as the wood used. Hooray. Quercus robus is what I'm guessing.

Thought I'd come back here with an update. Kitchen folks say it will take a few weeks to calculate the real cost for the cabinets. (Is that normal? It doesn't take the builder that long to get real cost for multiple items.) Meanwhile, they gave me another ballpark for wood on the perimeter and painted island which is more than 50% higher than the original ballpark. I know the wood doors I chose are more $$ than the mfr they assumed for me, but that doesn't account for that large a difference. I was also told that when the KD does linear foot ballpark estiimates, she always bases them on painted cabinets. (Can that be normal?) She knew I wanted wood on the perimeter. That means the initial ballpark I used as a guide had almost zero relevance for my project. Annoyed, but still hoping to stay with this KD, although the more the price goes up and the less transparency there is around it the more likely I am to want to find someone else for the job.

I have a cabinet maker friend who just signed a 1.5M production package for cabinetry and millwork for a single 11,000 sf home.. I do not think you understand how expensive quality work can be.

I have a cabinet maker friend who just signed a 1.5M production package for cabinetry and millwork for a single 11,000 sf home.. I do not think you understand how expensive quality work can be.

There are three possible scenarios here, (1) someone is telling tall tales, (2) your cabinetmaker friend found someone whose last name is Schwinn and is riding them like a bicycle, or (3) this is actually for a massive amount of architectural woodwork.

Just for giggles I am making my cabinets (really I am mostly finished but waiting to finish over my summer break). They are so far over the top for quality that it is almost embarrassing. They are hybrid inset cabinets. There are no nails or screws in the cabinets at all. The face frames are constructed with wedged mortise and tenon joints, my drawer boxes are maple with hand cut walnut dovetail keys, and the boxes are all pegged rabbets, butterfly joints in doors, etc. No one in their right mind would pay for any of those things. Moreover, it might be something a furniture maker could do, but I doubt you can find a single cabinetmaker cutting dovetail keys.

Even for a good sized kitchen, a good amount of shelving and a quite a few bathrooms it wouldn't run $1.5 million for that type of quality unless the entire thing is using burl slabs. At any rate that type of ridiculous overpayment is unlikely to be pertinent to discussions here.

What are the brand of cabinet they are quoting you? Honestly - I think I would take my losses and run. It is absurd that you are this far in the process and don't have an actual price for cabinets. They have already done you a disservice by not quoting you for what you wanted.

Now I don't know both sides, but that seems like a bait and switch since now you have spent the time and money to a layout and revisions.

PLEASE!!!!! Go somewhere else and have your kitchen priced out. It is the only way you will know. Also - keep in mind, you are paying more for a quartersawn white oak. There are few mid level lines that handle that.

Good luck

When some contractors run across a client who hasn't done any prep work through price comparisons, they see an opportunity ripe for the picking. Invest some time so you have a basis for a comparison. A customer like you doesn't come along that often.

Rift cut white oak is THE premium wood for several years. Put some into two of last three projects, both low six figure custom cabinet jobs. To get to some finishes requires a glazing step, another chunk of $$. Haven't seen much of this combo offered from big factories aka "brands".

Matched & consecutive grains are even more. No client has yet selected the option.

"Natural oak" is typically used for red oak standard cut, not this.

If necessary, pay for the design and find a supplier that can meet your needs.

@2rickies - nothing helpful to add except my sympathies here. I, too, requested door samples in what was described as "white oak" (and a couple other wood species) and received plastic wood-look doors. I quickly realized that the look I wanted would only come from custom cabinets, so I got samples/quotes from the tradesman who is doing the rest of our built-in's, and while it was more expensive than the painted options from our KD, it was an acceptable number. FWIW, our KD worked those custom units into the overall plan (along with the lower cost painted ones), but there's no "marrying" of different units side-by-side (and we're a relatively large job for her, so I guess that's why she didn't flip out or anything - we're happy to pay for the revisions to the design).

FWIW @bry911, my project is maybe 1/4 of the size of the one quoted/referenced, and while my millwork quote is not exactly $375k, I could definitely add in more to get it there. Of course, it would probably involve super exotic wood species, covering every available surface in wood and lots of hand-carved details, but still (storage everywhere!!!).

Around here, wood cabinets are more $$ than painted cabinets, whether I use the plasticky wood ones I didn't like or the nicer more natural looking ones. These brands are both custom, but the one I was originally "ballparked" is less expensive than the one that makes the more natural wood door (the latter is QCCI, the former is Decor--not Decora--it's a canadian mfr). I like the look of natural cherry at least as much if not more than white oak, and I'd change to that in a minute if I thought it would make enough difference in the cost. My builder has given me the name of another KD, and one of the lines she sells is Tedd Wood, which I don't know much about; they seem to do a natural stain frameless wood cabinet in a custom line. Not sure what other brands she handles. I'm going to make one more try to explain the budget and need to know costs with the current KD, and then I will have to decide whether to go elsewhere.

Wood for cabinets just isn't that expensive.

I can get sequenced premium rift sawn white oak veneer sheets (4' x 8') for $138, while un-sequenced red oak is $98. Rift cut white oak plywood costs about $137, and red oak is $129.

A 30" drawer stack in A1 white Oak and a premium sequenced veneer is going to be less than $350 in materials. That same cabinet in un-sequenced, lower quality red oak will be about $300. That is because the drawer slides alone are going to be nearly $150. Materials have never been the major driver of cabinet costs and premiums. The reason that places charge so much for rift sawn white oak is because they can. Which is fine, I am not saying they shouldn't charge a premium, if people are willing to pay... go for it. However, it is possible to find good quality cabinets for reasonable prices if you are willing to look.

Casework and millwork are quite different. I had a side gig making wainscoting and it could get pricey.

OP, this just occurred to me:

Barker cabinets are an RTA line. So, to be clear: these do not come fully assembled, and there's no KD on offer. However, I think the cabinets are reasonably good quality and frameless. They do custom sizes down to 1/4" inch. But most important for you: Their door selection includes quartersawn white oak. They offer very few colors / stains - just a clear stain and a light stain they call 'tamarack' and espresso, plus white and gray paint. Clear coat quartersawn white oak might actually be close to what you are hunting. Here's the white oak with the clear and light stains:

Or maybe this isn't what you were picturing, Anyway, I just wanted to mention this since its a totally alternate possible route, and it occurs to me that this is a larger building project and so you've probably got a general contractor and a carpenter on your team, so you might actually have the support you need already to build/install RTA.

If you decide to price out your cabinets/trim etc on Barker's site (they have all the pricing front and center, so you can add up the pieces yourself if you wish), just keep in mind that you are calculating just the materials cost + shipping and you'd still need to pay for the labor and expertise to build and install the cabinets. And the design help, if you want a KD.

Cool conversation, if I may. I have never used plywood or mdf for kitchen faces. Wood is wood. The little wood blocks of wood shown is European vs American oak. The red tint on is red oak from the northern states, WI area. Golden, European, is from Georgia area S E states. Difference caused by the minerals in the soil.

Actually I didn't really care about the cost of the raw lumber as it was my lowest expense. Quarter sawn white oak is more expensive. But available.

Custom means Custom, what you want. All solid wood except the carcus, usually used birch but oak is fine. Dove tailed drawers sanded everywhere. You won't find a sliver in my work, bottom of back door gets same treatment as face, always no matter how much I off bid. I ate it, owned it. Fixed it. Right is right. Or it drove me crazy. You could put a thousand pounds in the uppers. And they came as big, one piece, as I could get in the door. Less corners better space usage. Faces could be removed if necessary for repair. One hundred pound full extension doors self closing. Durable polyurethane faces, laquer in carcus 3 coats minimum. Standard.

Custom turned posts to customers design, incorporated desk into the kitchen helps keep things organized and allows a bit of office space if needed. Many folks have to be parents and breadwinner. Teacher. Any little thing that helps make your, you're life easier. I'm a pro and will build your dreams. Pull out cutting boards, washable hard maple. Wherever you want one any size. Biggest I've done was 6'×7'×2-1/2" thick with a drop sink. Had little cut outs on the sink side. Customer had 2 little girls so I made 2 kitchen stools that slid up into the space. Then they could help mom easier. I burned in the names of each child into the stools. Nice touch. Custom turned legs matched the office space spindles and oversized 4"×6' spindles on each side of the brick behind the stove. As borders. And the legs on the dining room table. Big table too. 8' with 3ea 2' wide leafs. Took 3 sets of slides.

Just an example of where my comments are coming from. That was a great job. 3 staircases with treads foot wide 4' long 4" thick. Bunch of vanities with birch tops n bed sets. Dumbwaiter doors with birch front. Fun job. Folks got exactly what they wanted and dreamed about as a young couple building their dream home with an heirloom quality kitchen. Built by a craftsman

Here are prices of various doors from a single source listed somewhere below

Shaker doors 18"x30"

paint grade $52

Alder $70

red oak $75

white oak $142 (not rift cut)

Slab doors 18x30

Paint grade $62

white oak $152 (not rift cut)

Cost of the difference from a commodity stained door to white oak slab is $82, 117% higher than alder and still double the cost of red oak. Add tax brings it to about $90 or $60 per lineal foot of cabinetry. Kitchen that we have in design is 102 lineal feet. That's $6120 upgrade. Add for glaze finish over stain. Paint grade material is significantly less but the cost of the paint process over stain (locally) offsets some or all.

The white oak (not even rift cut) is a veneer door, precut for hinges, edge banded on plywood. Mfg doesn't explain the plywood grade but in my experience plywood is superior for slab doors vs lumber. The slab doors a client ordered from a well known national mfg were either MDF for paint grade or glued timber for stain, with a 1/3 reject rate after delivery due to warpage or broken edges. Plywood is more stable.

Good morning folks. I kinda have an interest in this thread. Trying to organize the process of how somsome folks do business. As a former owner operator 1 man show. And I'm not an expert, I'm a really good woodworker that enjoys wood. And have worked with a lot of different folks over the years. The process I used was way different. The internet wasn't around so I kinda just jumped in n did it. All.

To me. The folks building their dream home weren't sure so asked experts. Good thoughts. The folks that actually built the cabinets never even visited with them. And they're are several experts that know everything to know but have never worked in a custom cabinet/furniture workshop. Huh. Like how would cabinet mmaker know anything about what can be done. Designers that insist what is in fashion not what exactly do you want and I will make it happen. And your dream kitchen will be exactly what you want. And the craftsman working on your project will always be fully available to speak through out your build to insure it. All changes will be fully discussed and your design will be the craftsmans challenge. And craftsman love challenges.

And then a bunch of folks want a piece of the pie. Don't even do that actual sawing cutting fitting finishing with many years experience. And that guy is the hardest working least paid guy. And the customer is paying outrageous prices n everyone else starts demanding. Price keeps growing n haven't started because there so many experts.

Huh did something like this in grade school. Say a word starting with 1 person. Goes down the line a bit, totally changes. Nobody knows why. Nobody right. Nobody wrong. You'll have that. Go find a good craftsman

@aklogcabin i hear you. I worked with a cabinetmaker for a recent reno in my current house and I was able to talk with him directly about what I had in mind. There was no designer in the middle, just the GC who put me in touch with him. He did beautiful work at a reasonable cost, and he worked with me to keep it within my budget.

@Jeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor I'm curious how you figure out linear feet. Is it as straightforward as it sounds (count linear feet of cabinets along perimeter and linear feet of uppers, etc)?

Eh rickies how's the kitchen

@aklogcabin, I'm waiting for specific pricing right now, and then I'll decide what to do.

Jeffery, if you are asking me. The raw lumber cost are minimal in pricing. All stock is already acclimated to my shop and I bought in big loads.

Devide the build. Design, I'd draw everything up and present. They change to their desiresdesires redraw everything, by hand on a drafting table. Last look before sawdust.

Because I have spent time drawing by hand several times. I have been developing a cut list for every board. And a written plans of procedures. This will all be available to my customers so that they are informed. And when they are proudly discussing the new kitchen that they designed they could explain the process. And brag a bit more. Building my base. And happy folks that want more. Quality first pays best.

After going to work for weeks knowing I underbid hurt, my family. I got smarter. And trippled my old formula.

Hard to say, folks always were involved so they discussed fair pricing. If they have been in the market much they have been burned n learned. And are open to fair prices.

But I didn't get any hundred grand jobs. Our family was happy healthy me to. And I set my prices fairly. I also had furniture in stores so learned pricing. MultMultiply 4 times. Used up my scrap building store furniture. Always busy. Probably didn't help much.

As a customer find someone that will build your dreams or help you build your dreams n teach you how to do it. And you can learn woodworking n building your own solid wood cabinets n fine furniture. They are around, great craftsman get oller also. Hands wear out but brain keeps on building n digging life

Update: the KD found an oak cab with a stain I hadn't seen in the less expensive line, and I like it, so they priced that, and I was relieved that it came in well within my budget, way below the high prices I had been hearing (waaaaay less than qcci). It's a slab door with oak veneer on mdf.

Right on 2rickies . You hung in there and got what you need. Never know, you may decide to upgrade after using it for a while. And then you won't be out a bunch of money. New homes cost a lot of money. Saving helps for those, you'll have that . Mostly happy that you're happy