Roses that got the shovel
Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
last year
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Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
last yearlast modified: last yearBenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked BenT (NorCal 9B Sunset 14)Related Discussions
gonna shovel prune my first rose....*sniff*
Comments (13)also have a sombreuil which isn't doing good at all...any one have any comments on it?? I just got it last year as well. *** You can't judge a climber on its performance in one year. Climbers require even longer to mature than bush roses do, and those should be given at least 3 years. Remember: "First they sleep. Then they creep. Then, they LEAP." With Climbers (yes, including Sombreuil -- which I have grown for decades) you should consider its performance after 2-3 more years. At present, your climbers are just beginning to put out significant roots, so that they can grow significant canes, so that they can bloom in quantity. Remove the possible QueenE (I agree with Paul on that completely). Then, I would look for something else for that spot. We love the Tea-Noisettes with a climbing habit. And Weeks has put out some nifty climbers. I wouldn't be without Fourth of July, or Berries and Cream. I personally badly crave 'Noëlla Nabonnand.' I also want 'White Maman Cochet.' But really, DON'T give up on a climber until it's had 3 years minimum. 4 is better. (Unless, of course, the bloom just makes you ill at first glance.) Then you should just shovel prune it, and not have to look at it again. :-) Jeri...See MoreShovel pruning a heritage rose?
Comments (13)If it's possible to propagate some of Frances Grate's Tea for Kippy to try, that would be the best thing, then she can how it does in her setting. I have a similar dilemma with Homere. I really don't like its little flowers and the way that they ball, but it's a gorgeous healthy plant and there are very few sources in the US. Take it out of my home garden or not? Every year, I consider doing it, and don't. The cemetery specializes in found roses, and I bought this from Paul Barden years ago. If it weren't a commercial rose, I'd dig it up, plant it in the cemetery and be glad that it's gone! (Peggy Martin said that she once saw a Homere that had huge flowers and she's coveted it ever since - mine are about the size of Mlle Cecile Brunner. Since Homere was another popular buttonhole rose, I think that my blooms are the right size...) Anita...See MoreShovel Pruned Virused Rose: Can I replant?
Comments (14)For someone in zone 10, there probably is very little chance of mosaic type virus spread as the rose's immune system is effective at high temperatures. ----------------------------------------- Concerning Davis's indexed roses. Davis has recently published a paper where they announced that they found an aphid spread virus in their indexed rose plantings (see page 511): "In this test, RSDaV was detected in many different rose species and cultivars from the Foundation Rose Collection at FPS. In all, 129 plants in this collection were tested, and 77 were positive for RSDaV. Some of the hybrid rose cultivars tested positive for RSDaV included Queen Elizabeth, China Doll, Heirloom, Lowell Thomas, Jack Frost, New Dawn, Uncle Joe, Bridal White, Butterscotch, and Cynthia. It is interesting that the virus was detected in more than 69 plants in two rows (total number of plants in these rows was 89) of the collection which were planted in the mid 1990s. In all, 162 samples of R. multiflora from the virusindexing rose blocks also were assayed in the spring and RSDaV was found in 94 plants. The majority of RT-PCR-positive R. multiflora plants were symptomatic. Another 40 additional plants from the same virus-indexing blocks were tested in the summer and 6 were positive." Here is a link that might be useful: link for above....See MoreHave roses, need someone with shovel to take them home...
Comments (47)LOL! Thank you. Yes, pretty much all of them, except the climbers, Hugonis, Roxburghii and the Ausins (which aren't worth the effort in this climate) are now moved to new homes. Engineered soil requires mechanical digging to excavte a hole. Refill it with the native, unamended soil and plant on top of the uncompacted mound. It will settle with time and the "bucket" you've created will eventually collect water. The difference is, that is all very much inorganic sub soil which often has ground water in it. Inorganic material doesn't sour when submerged under water. The deeper tap and anchor roots of pretty much any plant is suited to finding that kind of water and making good use of it. The feeder roots remain in the upper inches which are initially above grade but which will settle with time to about the soil grade level, and will spread out in the upper layer of "top soil" always installed over the engineered soil. That's the issue with planting trees in the stuff. The builders place a thin (often much less than a foot) of "top soil" (read "dirt") over the engineered soil bed then plant in excavated holes which the roots can't penetrate due to lack of air space and drainage. The tree roots grow to the surface where there is oxygen and where they splay out under the turf, resulting in surface roots running in all directions. Some tree and shrubs generate them naturally, such as liquid amber and pepper trees. When planted in engineered soil, their bad traits are exacerbated to the extreme. I plan to have them mechanically removed and the soil excavated to create a bed of loosened sub soil. All organics will go on top of that layer where they will break down and condtion the loosened sub soil as they digest. White Birch? Nope. Hateful things. Not that they aren't "pretty", but they are much prettier where they are suited, meaning where there isn't aridity, alkalinity and saltiness and where there aren't drying winds and extreme sun and heat. They like cooler, damper climates where their foliage doesn't fry easily, much like avocados and Japanese Maples do. Birches generate a tremendously thick, dense, fibrous root mass under the turf, very much like a carpet backing. I've dealt with many people who love the look of the birches and who virtually always want pansies planted around their trunks to flush out the "Connecticut in the desert" look they desire. Try it once. It doesn't succeed here. The only way to accomplish it is to create a planter around the trunks using large stones; lay in a heavy plastic liner and fill it with potting soil. The stones hold it in place and hide the edges of the plastic from view and support the soil. Do NOT puncture the plastic sheeting or the tree roots will inflitrate the potting soil in a matter of weeks, destroying the whole project. Then plant the annuals you want in the potting soil. IF you're lucky, it will take a year for the tree roots to grow up between the stones and the plastic liner before they infiltrate the soil in it and kill the annuals. I've repeated that process around the same birch trees for the past eight or so years and it has worked as long as there are no drainage holes to give access to the tree roots. When you replant, you often have to rip it all apart and surgically remove the tree root infested root ball, cutting it away from the ground, then replacing the stones and a new liner with new soil and new plants. Because the surface of the makeshift planter is wide enough and it isn't deep, any water that fills the bottom of the liner is either utilized by the annuals, or evaporates quickly enough to prevent it from souring. I have seen that birch root mass literally expand, pushing Schedule 40 PVC sprinkler lines to the point of shattering. Their roots are perfect for stabilizing creek banks, nearly eliminating erosion. They aren't good to deal with in any area you hope to be able to actually PLANT anything in. If the trees are young, without a great deal of spread yet, you can establish beds of agapanthus or other invasive types and they can do battle quite effectively with the tree roots. A friend has that combination around the front of his home where they have successfully growth together for over thirty years. But once the trees are established and those bloody roots have generated their characteristic mass, you are NOT getting a shovel into the ground from outside their drip zones anywhere near the trunks. Hateful things. Kim...See Morelibrarian_gardner_8b_pnw
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked librarian_gardner_8b_pnwMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
last yearlast modified: last yearlibrarian_gardner_8b_pnw
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked librarian_gardner_8b_pnwMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
last yearAshley Smith zone 5a
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked Ashley Smith zone 5aKristine LeGault 8a pnw
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked Kristine LeGault 8a pnwMischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
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last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked librarian_gardner_8b_pnw- Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
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last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked librarian_gardner_8b_pnwKristine LeGault 8a pnw
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked Kristine LeGault 8a pnwSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
last yearDDinSB (Z10b Coastal CA)
last yearlast modified: last yearMischievous Magpie (CO 5b) thanked DDinSB (Z10b Coastal CA)rosecanadian
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