Many of these types of trims use spring steel clips that apply pressure to the inside of the housing cylinder relying on friction to stay up. Light leakage can be caused by: #1 Drywall problems. The hole in the ceiling was cut too large or not patched well. The drywall/plaster should come right up to the housing with no gap. The drywall/plaster must be perfectly smooth around the housing without lumps allowing the trim to touch the ceiling all the way around. #2 The housing was not adjusted well for the ceiling thickness. If severe, the trim spring clips may not be grabbing in the right place and it would have been more difficult for the drywall contractor to finish nicely. #3 The housing was not screwed firmly in place letting it raise up a little as the trim is pressed up so when you release the trim it sags down just a bit. You can try adding a slight twist and some tapping when inserting the trim to get it all the way into the housing. Some trims have small gaskets to prevent light leakage on ceilings that have not been finished smoothly. Whatever you do to solve the problem remember that you have to remove the trim to change lamps so don't glue it to the ceiling. What brand and model is causing this problem?

Ducts aren't meant to hold water, even if each joint was properly taped/sealed. That will all dry out. But you probably had water get between the duct edge and the floor. The drywall ceiling is your main concern. Water in the insulation + closed space = can't dry out, then mold and soggy drywall, etc. If you got a lot of water in there, you would have to open the ceiling in the garage, pull out the wet insulation, get rid of soggy drywall, let the ceiling dry out, replace insulation, etc. I am doing exactly this for a client that had a leaky sink fixture, apparently for a long time. They noticed it when the drywall in the garage started to get wet in spots, followed by the characteristic dark tone of mold...and that was from clean water. BTW, if your duct was basically a straight run, you might go down to the air hanndler, remove the filter, and look inside. If you had a lot of water, you may have to do some clean-up down there also.

Nobody has tackled this yet, so here goes. Yes you have to break or sawcut or tunnel under the deck to get to the niche on the backside. Where is it leaking? Around the faceplate? That's the part with the screws on it, on the inside of the pool. Or, is it leaking where the conduit[the part the wire goes through] is screwed into the back of the niche? Surely they caulked both places. And it still leaks? The colorlogic is a sealed light fixture. The leak in the niche would not affect the light it's self. There are replacable parts inside, or if it's in warranty you might get Hayward to replace it. Worth a try. Here's the bad news. [there's bad news?]Yes there is bad news. Do these guys work on fiberglass pools alot? These pools are very tricky to work on. You don't just drain the pool. If the ground water is high, the pool could float. Yes float, as in out of the ground. I wouldn't drain it all the way. Just below the light niche where the work is taking place should be enough. I don't know what your ground is like, so this may not be a problem. However when draining fiberglass pools, I have seen fiberglass builders, brace the pool. Inside, so that the ground doesn't push the pool in, from the outside. Unless the niche is cracked, it should be repairable from inside the pool. New gaskets and some silicone in the conduit should stop the leak, or at least slow it to a trickle. How much water are you losing anyway? Is the ground behind the niche staying wet all the time? Anyway, good luck with it.

Another Jandy fixture is the right thing. The leak is likely coming in by the cord. Scott