Both an oil rub like Danish oil and oil-containing varnishes like Waterlox or solvent-based clear coats will yellow your wood, though the mechanisms are a little different. Those finishes with a high oil component go on with an orange to yellow tint depending if they are based on linseed or tung oil. The solvent-based clear coats may go on clear and then take a few years to yellow. If you want a bleached, Scandanavian-style wood, you'll definitely need a waterborne finish as well as some bleaching prior to the top coats. Some woods respond better to the process than others. White oak is a popular base wood for a bleached look.

On my monitor, the pine floor looks more orange than red, and I see more brown in the tile. Since blue is complimentary color to orange, I think if she used a blue tone, it would blend nicely. I painted my tiny front entry in BM Wythe Blue, and carried the color up the stairs and into the upstairs hall. I painted the guest bedroom in BM's historic 'Ansonia Peach', and I have to say that I love going up those stairs and seeing the peach color next to the blue. I linked an article on the color wheel from HGTV below, so you'll see analogous and complimentary colors. Here is a link that might be useful: Color Wheel

We finished our #2 grade red oak installation stained with Rubio monocoat smoke 5%. Here is a photo with the unfinished #2 red oak on left and the 25 year old dining room floor (smaller planks) on right. Overall, I love the smoked effect of the Rubio! I do regret not getting something a bit more dramatic in color though like a white or a darker brown. The redder planks of oak still look pinkish. I thought that the green of the 5% smoke would soften the pink. We will be installing the same oak in the other sitting room and kitchen and I would like to try a whiter shade or a darker shade to try and mask some of the pink. (I didn't waterpop and maybe that could have added a more opaque effect from the smoke 6%). Advice please: I bought UMO to add the extra level of protection and sheen. Tomorrow will be the 36hr curing time from the smoke 5% 2c to apply UMO. Should I just save the UMO for when we do the other rooms in a year or so? Is is possible to blend this smoke 5% floor with a new floor done with a different shade (a whiter or more medium brown shade)? Can a new shade be applied over this smoke 5% or should the floor be sanded? Thanks!

Humans are diurnal creatures. We are not bats. All due respect to other pro's , saving the planet, but the last hing I want in my home is daylight ALL the time. I especially do not want it in areas where that "day light" , even on dimmers , is not required. Lighting is no different than paint. There is not really a one type fits all . It's my experience that even the wealthiest client will walk around in near darkness, before it occurs to them to turn on a nine hundred dollar LAMP. OR , conversely, someone will flick on recessed from on high.. nearly all the time, forgetting they even OWN a lamp. An attractive and functional lighting plan is layered. It combines led, incandescent, it is high , it is low - as in ambient and task, and it can involve accent lighting in sconces, or picture lights. The weather and season will affect any paint, as will the lighting you would select for the moment and for that particular space. But to say any any kelvin, all the time , is the "answer"? No. It isn't. To me, that is akin to saying your bedroom should be lit as a potential surgical center, your kitchen as a romantic getaway, and your dining room for a tax preparation event . lol. Paint the walls as you tend to USE lighting. No matter your preference as cave dweller or surgeon. Leopards have a tendency to never change "spots"