I don't know if this is the best thing to do but this is what I did. I have some newly planted pluots, a nectarine, apricot and some others that seemed to be off to a slow start. My peaches had already bloomed and were loosing petals so I started fertilizing my new fruit trees with one tsp of Miracle Gro per gallon of water and all but one persimmon tree has leafed and the other persimmon has visible green tips. I fertilized them every three weeks and watered with plain water in between. I stop fertilizing them once they get off to a good start. The trees now have full leaf coverage. PS- It is my practice and recommendation to not fertilize thirsty plants/trees. Hope this helps.

Hi We also determine summer, spring, autumn and winter same way using daily average temperature with that 5 days in row (consequetive) for confirming purposes. Summer starts when average temperature reaches 10 (50 F) Celsius degree after spring and ends when temperature fell below 10 Celsius degree after summer. Spring starts when average temperature reach 0 (32 F) Celsius degree after winter and ends when average temperature reach 10 Celsius degree in summer. Autumn starts when average temperature fall under 10 Celsius (50 F) degree after summer and ends when average temperature fall below 0 (32 F) Celsius degree in winter. Winter starts when average temperature fall below 0 Celsius degrees (32 F) after autumn and ends in spring when average temperature reaches 0 Celsius degrees (32 F). That is our 4 seasons in year. I grow here pear tree variety Aunen Päärynä and Pepi (Pyrus Communis), those 2 pear treee i have bought. When we came here, where we currently live, our garden has also following fruit trees and berries, we do not know varieties of those: 2 apple trees, now we have only 1 apple tree, because mine dad cutted that one out, because it did not prodouce good way fruits. We also have 1 black currant bush, 3 red currant bush, 3 gooseberries and raspberries, do nnot ask how many raspberries we have. We had also rhubarb, but we no longer have that. Next we may look at weather in Finland, where i live as Jellyman suggested it. Let's take a look 2008 year weather from 1.1.2008.-31.12.2008 and also try to determine those seasons same time (If you wonder mine date how i wrote it, i wrote them as they are wrote in Finland, first day, then month, then year). On 1.1.2008. new year day temperature ranged high of 0 C to low of - 1 C (Zone 9) . January is winter month here. In year 2008 we had warm winter, and temperature did not fall below -17 Celsius degree, as i have told earlier. On humidity high was 100 % on that date, in other words maximum what is possible, average humidity was 93% and low 80 % humidity. Those numbers are quite high. Finland is humid country. This high humidity keeps and helps to keep temperature quite high considerering our northern location (Thanks to gulf stream). For comparision Charlotte, North Carolina, U.S.A. had same day high of 92%, average of 58% and low of 24% humidity. Then during next few days temperature fell somewhat and reached bottom on 5.1.2008. Tempature high was -7 C, average -8 C and low -9 C (zone 8). Same time air came drier also with high of 73%, average 65% and low 53 %. After that temperature started to rise and reached 11.1.2008. above freezing level. Yes in middle of winter. It is normal here southern Finland to have above freezing level temperatures. If you think does our plants come out of dormancy, no they don't. It is too dark in winter, day length is too small/little and no enough light(sun) in this time to year to do photosynthesis. High was 3 C (37 F), average 2 C and low 0 C (zone 10). Humidity got very high levels, high 100%, average 98%, low 81%. Every day during 11.1.2008-20.1.2008 reached above 0 Celsius degrees freezing temperature. Lows was 0 C or - 1 C 11.1.2008-19.1.2008. So tempeature was quite stable and not much difference in day and hight. During 12.1.2008.-14.2.2008 daily high temperature was quite stable ranged from high + 3 C to low - 2 C. On 28.1.2008. we had cold snap of - 13 C (zone 7) as low temperature, altought high was 0 C. On 16.2.2008 we got our coldest 2008 temperature low of -17 (zone 7) Celsius , high was - 3 C and average temperature of - 10 C ( 14 F). And again dried air too. Then on 22.2.2008. daily high temperature reached again above freezing temperature for many days in row (22.2.2008-3.2.2008 all days had at least 0 C temperature as high temperature.) Then 3 cold days on 3.3.2008-5.3.2008 when temperature dropped as low as - 12 C (10 F , zone 8) on 5.3.2008. And yes humidity dropped little bit again (to low of 59%). It looks like low humidity air is colder air here, so high humidity keeps us warmer than dry air. On 6.3.2008 highs reached once again above freezing temperature (all days from 6.3.2008 to 18.3.2008 had at least high of 0 C temperature). Warmest day was 10.3.2008 when temperature high was 5 C (41 F), average 3 C and low 2 C (Yes no below freezing tempeature on that day, that can too happen on winter here occasionally). That was warmest day so far 2008 year. After winter last cold blast came before spring. Temperature dropped again to year lowest temperature on 22.3.2008 with high of - 4 C and average - 11 C temperature. After that sun started to be enough high and day length enough long that we started to heading toward spring and warmer temperatures. First daily high temperatures started to rise higher. On 28.3.2008. high temperature broked 0 Celsius level and did not fall below that until next autumn. On same day average temperature reached 0 Celsius degrees. During next 6 days we had following average temperature : 28.3.2008. 0 C 29.3.2008. 1 C 30.3.2008. 2 C 31.3.2008. 5 C 1.4.2008. 4 C 2.4.2008. 5 C Average temperature has reached 0 Celsius degrees in 5 days in a row. It means that our winter ended here and spring started on 28.3.2008 (or 29.3.2008 if you use global summary of the data). On last day on march 31.3.2008. highs reaches 10 Celsius (50 F) degrees first time in year 2008. How our spring processed for that date? Here is what happened. We still had below freezing 0 Celsius temperatures as daily low on many days in april, but not all days. Low was 3.4.2008. - 3 C (25 F) , and even as low as - 5 C (23 F) on 20.4.2008. On 16.4.2008 and 17.4.2008. 10 C was again reached as high temperature. Humidity is lower somewhat now, high was for example on 24.4.2008 high 100%, average 62%, 31% during warm spell. Starting as 22.4.2008. we got first sign that summer is coming as we got warm spell for many days and high temperature rose to well over 10 Celsius degrees (50 F). Temperature rose to as high as 21 (69 F) Celsius degrees on 2.5.2008 and 3.5.2008. Actually on 3.5.2008 accoring global summary of the day temperature rose even higher as high was recorded at 22,8 C (73,2 F). Starting on 25.4.2008 we had following average temperatures : 25.4.2008. 5 C 26.4.2008. 7 C 27.4.2008. 7 C 28.4.2008. 11 C 29.4.2008. 12 C 30.4.2008. 12 C We have now 5 days with average temperature of 5 Celsius degrees. That means 2008 growing season has started! Growing season started on 25.4.2008. Actually global summary of the day has growing season start day even 2 days earlier as of 23.4.2008. During that warm period low temperature also rose above freezing temperature, 27.4.2008. low was 1 C, low temperature rose to high of 10 C on 3.5.2008. 3.5.2008 high was 21 C, average 15 C, and low of 10 Celsius degrees temperature. On 6.5.2008 we got freeze as low temperature dropped to - 1 C during growing season, while high temperature was 11 C and average temperature 5 C. Average humidity was 61 % on that day. We got still got some late freezes after that, which caused problems, because growing season was already started. We got 5 freezes more on as follows : 13.5.2008 - 3 C (26 F) Ouch!, 16.5.2008 - 3 C, 17.5.2008 - 1 C , 20.5.2008 - 2 C and as late as 28.5.2008, - 1 C. Yes late may freeze. I think we voided those on 2009 year. On 22.5.2008 temperature warmed and average temperature reached 10 C (50 F) and stayed there for 5 days in row, effieciently ending spring and started summer (using global summary of the day data). Spring is our shortest time as longer day length quickly rises temperatures. So our spring lasted from 29.3.2008. to 22.5.2008. So our spring did not last even 2 months after turning to summer. Less than 2 months to get 10 Celsius (18 F) gain to average temperature. This gives us image how fast our sun starts here to draw us from winter to summer. Starting with 20.5.2008 daily high temperature reached every day at least 10 C (50 F) until 2.9.2008. That is 105 days in row. Last freeze in spring was 29.5.2008. and first autumn freeze was on 30.9.2008. about 4 months later. So frost free growing season was total 124 days. During summer highest temperature was reached on 26.7.2008 27,1 C (80,8 F). On that date average temperature 20,7 C (69,3 F) and low was 12,7 C (54,9 F). On that date humidity was high 94%, average 63 % and low of 34 %. Dew point was high 15 C, average 13 C, low 10 C. Charlotte, North Carolina, U.S.A. had dew point of 22 C, 18, C 18 C respectively so those numbers are quite high i think. Air is still humid here. Finland has no dessert, it rains about evenly all year here. During summer lows is mainly around 10 C (50 F) some days warmer nights some day lower. But generally no freeze as you can see above. Lows can as high as 15 C and as low as 0 C near freezing level. Altought that happens rarely here. Summer ended here on 9.9.2008. as average temperature dropped below 10 Celsius and started autumn, but growing season still continued. So our summer lasted from 22.5.2008-9.9.2008 total 111 days. Over 3 months was our summer year 2008. In autumn our range from daily high and daily low generally starts go smaller. Differences from daily high to daily low as humidity starts increase. For example on 16.9.2008. daily high temperature was 6 C, average temperature 5 C and low temperature 5 C. So temperature ranged by 1 C during that day. But growing season still continued. 20.9.2008-30.9.2008 temperatures reached every day 10 C (50 F). Most of those was freeze free day as well, expect 30.9.2008. Our growing season started on 23.4.2008 and it ended on 27.10.2008 as average temperature dropped below 5 Celsius degrees. Our growing season lasted over 6 months during 2008 growing season. Growing season was 188 days long. Starting on day 22.10.2008 temperature no longer was able to reach 10 Celsius degrees. Few Celsius degree freezes occured somedays until more harder freeze occured on 20.11.2008 - 7 C. Humidity reached november 2008 many days maximum 2008 100% for example on 9.11.2008 maximum humidity was 100%, average 98 % and low 93%. Air is very humid, we also have fog this time this year. On that date temperature was high 7 C, average 5 C and low 2 C, no freezes. In this time year it can many days in row like this. Humid, warm, foggy, dark, and generally little differences day high and day low temperature. This differs us from Alaska weather. Autumn continue quite long to the end of the year here. Daily high temperature dropped below 0 Celsius degrees in autumn first time 20.11.2008. Our winter started on 19.11.2008. as average temperature dropped below 0 Celsius degrees and stayed there 5 days in a row. So autumn lasted from 9.9.2008-19.11.2008. Our autumn was little bit over 2 months long. This qives quite good and long time to our plants prepare to winter and harden. Remember this is end of november 2008 when winter started, only little bit 1 month to darkest day in northern hemishpere. So as you can see our winters do not last very long before spring comes. Even on december temperature can reach and go above freezing temperature. For example every day 25.11.2008-5.12.2008. reached at least 0 C, actually 28.11.2008. reached as high as 5 C (41 F). But during this time of year it is very dark and short day length. So our darkness and lack of day light efficiently push our plants dormancy even thought temperature are not very cold and could be above freezing temperature 0 C. So i do not really any more worry to see mine pear tree to have leafs on branches on november. I saw one november mine pear tree to have leafs of branches, and think what are you doing? It got little bit snow to ground as well that time. If you think what happened? Nothing, snow melted away next day (Temperature rose above 0 Celsius degrees) and my pear dropped all her leaves on next day and 1 day. No damage, if you ask it. On 8.12.2008-14.12.2008 was again period of above freezing temperature with low - 5 C on 8.12.2008 with humidity averaging over 90 %. Still humid air, yes. On 28.12.2008 low was - 10 C which milded to - 3 C low on year last day on 31.12.2008. with high temperature 0 C (32 F). That was 2008 year weather here.

I'm planning to keep my banana tree in a container indoors, currently the container is too small so I'm forced to transplant the tree. I don't know if it's recommended to separate the "mother stalk" from the smaller stalks if I only have 2 others. I also want to know what soil mixture I should use in the pot I will be transplanting the tree into, what minimum temp.I should keep the tree at, and what organic fertilizers are recommended by other gardeners to use on this plant.

It is pretty easy. You only use is for certain types of trees that tend to get very hard, unyielding buds while in cold storage. Some of the varieties you use it for are oaks, redbuds, hackberries, weeping willows, birch, hawthorne, some types of dogwoods, barberries, and ornamental pears. When these trees are held in cold storage they sort of get "stuck" in dormancy and don't want to wake up. Often, if you plant these types of bare-root trees without sweating them, they stay in dormancy for months and, if they don't break dormancy at the right time after spring planting, they can die before the following spring rolls around. What you want to do by "sweating" them is to create a super-humid, moist environment that gives the buds extra "encouragement" to swell and break. You can sweat them in several ways. For example, if the trees came in a large cardboard box, you can take them out of it, line it with heavy plastic, and then put the trees back into it. If they have any packing material around their roots, remove any plastic and wet down that packing material throughoughly. Then use duct tape to seal up the large sheet of plastic and make it as air-tight as possible. Store the whole thing in moderate temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit out of direct sun. Within a few hours, you should see condensation inside the plastic and that is what you want. It can take 1 to 2 weeks of sweating for the buds to swell and break. If your condensation gradually disappears, you may have to briefly open the plastic and wet down the packing material around the roots and then reseal it. Check the buds for signs of swelling every couple of days. Or, if you have a polyhouse or tightly constructed hoophouse or high tunnel that holds in the humidity well, you can wet down the roots and sweat them in that structure following the same principle of shielding them from direct sunlight and maintaining the right temperatures and high humidity. Or, you can lay the plants down on a garage or barn floor, remove any plastic from the trees root area and wet down the packing material around the roots, and cover up the whole thing with a sheet of heavy duty plastic or a tarp. It is a little harder to maintain humidity under the tarp though unless you lay it underneath the plants on the floor and sort of wrap it around the plants and seal it shut with duct tape.. Once you have swelling buds, the sweating has achieved its goal of breaking dormancy. The key to success with sweating is what you do after the sweating because the plants need to go into the ground when the weather is warm and humid--very similar conditions to their sweating period only the humidity is natural and not artificially mainatained under plastic. If you plant the trees and a late cold snap occurs, you can loose the dormancy-breaking effect unleashed by the sweating. So, you don't want to sweat trees until the weather is conducive to planting. And, as soon as the buds swell and you remove the plants from their sweating "area", you want to plant them ASAP. That's all you have to do to "sweat" a dormant tree.