Alan, it's long been established that top pruning before digging and transplanting is very counter productive for the plant. It 'sounds' like it makes sense (cut the roots:cut the top to compensate), but plant physiology doesn't back it up. You see, there is only one source of energy for making new roots...actually many sources and they are the leaves. Leaves and only the leaves are what create, through the process of photosynthesis, the carbon resources (energy)required to grow. If you prune off a bunch of the top growth, then the energy production is diminished enormously. Not only that, but the plant will be induced to expend unnecessary energy on the making of new leaves instead of new roots! Located in all of those branch ends (the growing tips) are hormones that dictate to a plant where to initiate new growth. By leaving those tips uncut, the plant is able to devote energy to root production. If you cut back the top, those hormonal pathways will be rerouted to shoot (above ground) development. Even though we can't see the regeneration of new roots, it happens very rapidly and very aggressively, as long as we have followed other proper planting specifications. If you've simply cut here and there, perhaps to remove broken branches and such, that's fine. You've done your homework. By the way, the use of pruning paint has been discarded as good horticultural/arboricultural practice for practically a generation! To add to the problems that your specific plant had is that its root system was ripped from the soil system, rather than being cut cleanly. Big problem. It's size makes it a more difficult transplant, too. There are several 'rule-of-thumb' measurements to go by regarding the size of the root ball required. One that I usually use is simple to remember: for every one inch of trunk DIAMETER (not circumference), you'll need twelve inches of root ball diameter. Take the trunk measurement about 4 inches above the soil level, which will typically be a wide part of the trunk. So, if the trunk of your camellia was, say, three inches across, then you'd want to dig a root ball that was around 36 inches across. The height of the plant makes no difference.

How much pruning are you talking about? Does it have any leaves now? Some of my early blooming japonicas decided to bloom, sleep and start finishing their bloomage now. I have not noticed new leaves opening here yet so you may just want to wait and continue watering to keep the soil as evenly moist as possible. I fertilize later this month; if you think there may be a problem, do not fertilize now as stressed plants should not be fertilized.

Hello, Ron. I live near Northeast Mall and my Kramer Supremes are doing fine. They always get a few brown leaves this time of the year (usually the edges but I do loose a handful of leaves thru the summer). I have always tracked the problem to temps in the 100's and lack of moisture. My suggestion is to make sure you have gobs of acidic mulch around them, at least 3" thick. Originally I put the mulch thru the drip line but, I have noticed that windy weather during the summer was able to get under my heavy mulch. So, to compensate, I now mulch way past the drip line. From what I can recall, I extend the mulch approx 6" past the drip line... Try doing the same if you can. Note: since flower buds are set this time of the year, it pays to keep them as moist -not wet- as possible. Good luck! Luis

It is hard to tell until you actually check and no longer see "green" (then it is too late of course). Since leaf out could take a while and may not occur until Spring, I would make sure that they remain well mulched and that the soil is as evenly moist as you can (with no periods of dry followed by wet followed by dry and so forth). About 3-4" of mulch up to the drip line should suffice and should lengthen the days between waterings. Test the soil with a finger to make sure you are not overdoing it (insert a finger to a depth of 4" and water if it feels dry or almost dry). Pick up any plant debris under the trees & dispose in the trash or compost pile while you are watering. Before watering, amend the soil if your soil is alkaline so you do not have to water a second time after amending the soil.