I wish it was the old rubber washer and stem setup, that is the only type of faucet I ever repaired... until today. The picture is what I removed after unscrewing the collar. The plumbing supply guy was correct, it was a Valley brand cartridge, so the replacements he sold me were correct. When I removed the cartridge, I had to pry out the black rubber ring and spring. The white nylon insert for the spring was inside the rubber piece on one faucet, but it was in the other end of the spring on the second faucet. I called the supplier and he was uncertain which way was correct, but we reasoned that there was more need of the insert on the rubber side to help prevent the spring from cutting the inside of the rubber ring. His knobs and adapters were different, but the stops on the old adapters were broken anyway (they turned through 360 degrees) so I did a complete facelift on the fixture, only leaving the trim plates, so now I need to buff off that corrosion on the tub spout. The replacement parts did not include the handle screw for some reason. I went to the closest traditional hardware store (no big boxes there) to get the original screws (each screw was different when I took the old handles off so I suspected that neither was original). The hardware store had only one of my cartridges, and an employee finally found a Valley parts listing, tried to look up the proper screws but they were listed as not available. The inside of the new plastic replacement stem is unthreaded, so apparently you are expected to use an appropriate size and length sheet metal screw, so I bought a couple of SS screws to mount the new handles. I paid a premium for parts from the plumbing supply store, but the advice was well worth it, and saved me from calling a plumber for what turned out to be a fairly simple job after all. The hardware store I visited to get replacement screws did not have employees who were very knowledgeable about plumbing. They admitted that their fairly large selection of repair parts for faucets was an orphaned area in the store. I suppose that with the variety of repair parts and manufacturers, some of which seem to be out of business now, it is fairly easy to just throw in the towel and buy new fixtures now. I will probably be doing this same fix soon at my house. My fairly expensive delta faucets in my bathroom have started leaking already after less than 5 years in service, and I know they will take cartridges too. Quality is being sacrificed for cost... same with lighting IMO, as I see import stuff selling for hundreds of percent above what these fixtures are actually worth when you look at their construction and quality. Here is a link that might be useful: Valley faucet cartridge replacement

From reading all of this it is apparent to me that the DIY methods are radically different from the old school plumbers methods. Everyone is talking about running to the hardware store and replacing the stem and such. I must be getting Alzheimer's or something because I honestly can't remember the last time I actually had to replace a stem. In the trade the old school plumbers all have a small metal multi-compartmented box that holds a complete assortment of both flat & beveled faucet washers, an assortment of Bib screws, brass cup washers and hopefully a pair of bottoming taps for the screw threads. In addition we have a roll of stem packing material and a couple specialty tools, a handle puller and a set of plumbers sockets. Now I would not expect a homeowner to purchase a complete Sexauer Washer set at $55 but you can buy a complete assortment of washers at any hardware store for about $2 and keep them in your tool box. Begin by turning the water off at an angle stop, a zone valve or at the main if necessary, then open the faucet and drain the line. Remove the handle retaining screw, then use the handle puller to lift the handle off the end of the stem shaft. Pounding on the handle with a wrench is a sure way to damage the handle. (handle pullers are about $10 at any hardware store) If the stem body is accessible such as on the laundry faucet in question or a kitchen or lavatory faucet use an adjustable wrench to remove the stem body. If the stem body is recessed into the wall such as on a tub/shower mixer use a plumbers socket to remove it. (A full set of plumbers sockets is about $10 at any hardware store). When you get the stem body out remove the bib screw that holds the washer on the end of the stem, then remove the old washer. Examine the end of the stem. Most stems have a cast raised ridge that surrounds the outer part of the washer to prevent it from expanding outwards. You may find a chip or two missing from that ridge, if so, that is not a big problem but in a worst case we find the greater portion of that ridge is missing. In that case we use a pair of pliers to break off the remaining portion of the ridge, then use a file to smooth any burrs so the end of the stem has a flat surface. Select the correct washer and if you had to file the end of the stem flat you install a brass cup washer under the washer to replace the ridge. If you have a bottoming tap available it is best to run the tap in the threads of the stem to clean the threads, then put the screw through the washer and into the stem and tighten it in place. Next, unscrew the stem packing nut on the outer end of the stem and turn the stem until you can remove it from the stem body. Use a fine stainless steel wire brush to clean the threads of the stem and apply a liberal coating of "Plumbers grease" on the threads. (A small 1oz can of plumbers grease is available at any hardware store for about $.50 to $1.) Now remove the old stem packing material from the outer end of the stem body. Insert the stem into the body and turn it until the stem is in the full open position. Now you wind the new stem packing material around the stem shaft and push it down into the stem journal. continue packing until the stem packing material is slightly higher than the end of the stem body. Replace the stem packing nut and tighten slightly so you feel a slight friction when turning the stem. Now set the stem aside for a minute. Reach your finger nail into the faucet body and feel the surface of the seat. If the seat is pitted, chipped or feels like a rough sandpaper surface replace the seat. To replace the seat you insert a seat wrench into the center opening of the seat, then unscrew the seat. (You can get a seat wrench at any hardware store for about $3). Normally you will have to take the old seat to a good neighborhood hardware store and have them match a new one. (Ace & True value hardware stores are great for matching seats, but don't expect a lot of luck at Lowes or HD) Here is a tip. The original seats are usually brass. For a few cents more you can get "Monel metel" which will hold up much better and if you have severe hard water condition that tears the seats up quickly you might want to get a stainless steel seat. The SS is will cost about twice as much as the brass but it will outlast the brass 10 to 1. Before installing the new seat apply a couple turns of white single density Teflon tape to the threads. (There is a trick to installing the new seat. It is nearly impossible to hold the seat and get the threads started in the faucet body. The trick is to wedge the new seat on the end of your seat wrench and use the wrench to reach it in an start it.) Now here is the one point that many people overlook. Before you attempt to install the stem body back into the faucet be sure the stem is turned to the full open position. If it is in the closed position the new washer will be pressed too tightly against the seat and it is instantly distorted beyond use. Tighten the stem body, then turn the water one. You may need to tighten the stem packing nut a bit to seal the new packing. Once you are sure there is no leak replace the handle and your done. The first time you do this you may end up buying the afore mentioned tools but even if you do buy the tools, the total cost of the job is far less than the cost of a professional service call, and once you own the tools the next time you do this job all you will be out is a few cents for the washers and stem packing. I would strongly suggest every homeowner or DIY'er should get these tools and keep them in your tool box. Also, next time your at a hardware grab a package of assorted faucet washers. The package is about a dollar or two and with the price of gas it simply isn't worth coming back to the store for them when you need them.

Well..... the riser has no threads! The faucet part it goes into has threads, though, for some unknown reason. There just is a tiny bolt that tightens against the riser tube and supposedly holds it in place. This is why I backed off of just getting another faucet to replace it - in the reviews for just about every similar product people complained about this same problem - seemingly mismatched pieces that don't fit together very well. Rubber plumbers tape - That might just do the trick - there looks like some black residue in there like maybe it had been used in the past.

I couldn't find any pics of any baths with the shower clips different than the faucets, altho they probably exist. For some reason, I found these more attractive with the ORB than the doors with clips, which seem to look like they are just suspended in midair. Not sure what you think. Same with ORB handles on the doors; esp with lighter tile, they just look oddly suspended to me, which might be why I prefer this look - no handle and the hardware is higher, more out of line of sight.