In my experience tubers need: 1. Water 2. Light inside. When they go outside, the need soil. In other words, you could start them in wet newspapers and they'd likely eye up and sprout. Soil only comes into it when they sprout roots, and when you're starting tubers you're not really going after roots, you want sprouts. The more roots they grow indoors, the more work it is to transplant safely. I'd use the loosest soil you can find, and keep the tubers shallow in the mix. I started mine in a 50-50 mix of Miracle Grow Seed Starter and peat. Worked fine, but I doubt the soil had anything to do with anything. Cheers, Russ

Well, I am quite thrilled to read these great responses! I live in Zone 7, but our Winter is still long. The zones just refer to the extremes in temperature, not how long it lasts. I have noticed volunteer tomatoes come out earlier than I would choose to plant out. So, I can watch for that as a sign. I do not have any trouble with legginess of my tomato seedlings. I have a picture window that faces full-South, and shelves there (for seedling starting in Winter) outfitted with shop-lights. I read somewhere that it is important to use fresh bulbs (fluorescent tubes) as the light diminishes over time. I do not get new ones every year, but if one seems to put out less (judging by the plants), I use that on my alpine strawberry seedlings or something else that doesn't mind. I want to start even earlier because I'd like to keep tomato strains true when I grow them out. I plan to grow out severl this year, and if one flowers first for a week, then they are in the clear, and I can mark those fruits, and then not really worry about the rest. I guess what I mean is that an early & staggered start will allow me to focus on each plant as it comes into bloom, selecting from that, and moving on to the next one. I do have some limitations (medically), so it would be easier to focus on them staggered rather then so many at one time. It may not work out the way I hope, but I figure it is a good experiment for this year. By choosing good varieties for this (my un-familiarity with varieties hurts my experiment here) I can better insure success. The funny thing is that I don't really eat tomatoes--except in spaghetti sauce. BUT, everyone else loves them, and I find there is a group involved with tomatoes that have a zeal for the plant like no other vegetable/fruit. A great deal of home-breeding is going on, and I find it the most fascinating thing. Tomatoes provide a great opportunity to study genetics at home, and to look very intensely at varietal development in plants. I guess I am hooked for a reason not common to most, but I am hooked. So, I will try my experiment this year, and see how it works for me. I am thankful at the varieties/categories I see mentioned. When mentioning "use determinate or dwarf" plants, how can I find out which is which? I have consulted some websites, but is there a thorough tomato base out there? Keep the posts coming! Happy Holidays, Robin

media temp ... is usually more important than the media itself .. for germination ... and after that.. proper watering ... for proper root growth and after that.. light intensity ... for proper green growth ... and then.. i might think about the media as a variable ... ken ps: and i would sterilize my media before i started... regardless of what the bag states ... as well as all my pots/flats/tools/etc ... i use the baggie method in the micro for small batches ... and once got a turkey aluminum pan from the dollar store ... and covered it with foil .. and made a giant jiffy pop out of it.. lol .. i used the meat thermometer the first time... but i figured out.. that if properly dampened.. when steam escaped out a hole in the top ... i had gotten it warm enough .... never forget.. an ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure ... http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/4DMG/Soil/sterile.htm

In my experience, Impatiens walleriana (the impatiens commonly found in garden centers) will grow better for you in pots and your conditions than Impatiens balsamina (aka garden balsam) will. ETA: and the former (impatiens) will have a much longer bloom period!!! Balsam takes a while to bloom, then it sets cool seed pods (fun for kids to pop!) and it dies, whereas impatiens will bloom from the start until killed by frost!