How warm outside to plant fig cuttings directly in-ground?

2 months ago

I wanted to start my fig cuttings directly in-ground here in Southern California (10a), outside, both in fabric pots (3 gallon and 30 gallon), and in-ground in a 60 gallon hole. (All with enriched soil).

It's about 63F during the day and 48F at night.

Is it warm enough to start cuttings outdoors?

(I don't mind if they develop slower, just want to get them in-ground as soon as I can.)

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Comments (5)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 months ago
most commercial growers start in the smallest possible pot. and as the plant develops roots.. they up pot repeatedly ...

for some reason babe plants like to be slightly root bound ... to prosper ... to thrive with vigor ....

putting cuttings in a 60 gallon hole.. just might not work ..

and if you start small.. you can start indoors under lights.. and repot once or twice.. before the plants will be ready to harden off and go outside in spring.. which is what.. in 45 minutes in your zone..lol..

also.. rooting usually require 14 warmth ... its not day heat that is the usual problem..its the 8 hours of so of no heat.. or heat loss.. at night .... that slows the process.. again..if you can work inside.. you could use a heat mat ...

what you want.. and what is the best thing to do.. are often miles apart ..

ken
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
2 months ago
If they are in containers, even if those are buried, they aren’t growing directly in the ground. They would root quicker and more reliably at a higher temperature, but if you have a lot of cuttings and are prepared to lose some I’d stick them straight into the ground. But you’d have more success starting the cuttings in small containers in warmth and potting them up as they grow.
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I have mine in water with very little problems. Only Aubique Petite turned to mush. All others have either shot a root or two out or showed the white styrofoam primordial substance. I have stuck both kinds in 70/30 perlite/soil with very good results. I have or am in the process of doing about 35 varieties in water. In terms of storage I have seen some say if wrapped correctly and checked every month in the fridge, can be rooted from 6 to 12 months later. I had trouble with mold so I was forced to root early Jan. I have been advised by other forum members that Physan 20 is very good to spray on cuttings to contain mold but in a humid condition It has been hard to avoid. Dominick
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My pots will be going into the ground for 1-3 years until we either move or decide we are going to live here permanently. I purchased a demolition hammer for digging the holes. I think I will be using this material to cover the holes with. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280361233092&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT I plan on pulling the older trees and doing some root pruning. On the trees I planted this year I may pull them and add a few inches of soil to the bottom and sides of the pots as the soil has compacted a little. Either way I will be able to cover the bottom hole from the inside of the pot. I may drill 3-6 larger side holes in the 15-25 gallon pots to encourage more rooting outside the pot. Al, I plan on putting the pots about 6" into the ground with a 4" wide 6" deep perimeter filled with garden soil. Our soil here is very poor and alkaline though fast draining. Do you think there would be any advantage to putting a few holes in the pots above ground level or would that just be over kill?
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How can you have a spot in you garden that is dry enough to plant but you can't put a pot there? In the ground, high chance of death, unless you live in Hawaii. Rooting is the difficult time and I do not recommend lots of changes (moving, re-potting, changing soils) as this is often upsetting to the plant. Shock is next to too much water as the top killers of new cuttings. Like tony said, you can amend the soil but if your soil is slow draining, then on the first rain your hole becomes a swimming pool that will surely kill your plant. Many factors to consider. I always recommend raised beds and raised hills( see second picture below) to plant in so you have the least problem with pooling water which is an executioner. Individual pots are always best unless you have hundreds of cuttings and no space, then community pots allow you to compress your cutting field. I started 160 cuttings this spring in an area that is about 6'x10' and i only used two community pots for ones that needed pure perlite.
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Last year I started taking cuttings really late, like August/September. I had about six that rooted and I did what you suggested. Put the pots in a hole near the foundation and covered with mulch. We had a pretty tough winter and there was over three feet of snow piled on top of those plants, but three of them managed to survive. I still have them in pots. This year I started taking cuttings in the May/June timeframe and I have a bunch that rooted. Since these plants will be further along by the fall, IÃ¢ÂÂm considering planting them in the ground and covering with mulch Ã¢ÂÂ¦ Unless someone advises me against that. Good Luck with your cuttings.
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SoCalGardenNut
2 days ago
last modified: 2 days ago
i started mine a month ago, directly in the ground and they are doing well. I'm in the same zone as you, 10a SoCal.
Bluemoonlight
2 days ago
In your zone you can start them now if the temperature doesn't gets longer then around 50 D Fahrenheit.

Plant them in so that only an inch of cutting is above the soil level.
dieseler
2 days ago
HU ,

It has been 2 months did you plant the fig wood ?

Any pictures are always nice to see..

Martin

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Comments (5)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

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