Just want to share that I think your room is quite attractive already - I love the rug raven shared (and the one always1step ordered !).... I cannot visualize on the fireplace but everything else selected works great together. ( and seriously not to push you, but that rug!!! and it sure seems like a great deal to me at the current price......)

You have: WARM travertine tile on the first floor. You have DARK warm wood cabinets. You have WARM countertops. The LAST thing you want sitting next to that BEAUTIFUL WARM coloured stone is gray. No gray. Nothing in your home says "I need gray to make it perfect". Nothing. Your furniture will change. Your area rugs will change. Your wall colours will change. They will all change inside of 15 years. But your PERMANENT stone or tile floors will STAY. If you must use a tile next to stone, I suggest working in the same tones. You can go darker or you can go lighter but stay inside the SAME TONES as the travertine. If you REALLY MUST HAVE GRAY - then rip out the travertine and start again. Gray and peach stone/tile do not like to play nicely together. It screams out, "I didn't want to pay to do it properly." I would recommend finding MORE travertine in a different sized tile and add it in at an angle (diagonal install). You can find a stone that is either a little darker or a little lighter. You can then add a decorative boarder to the rooms where you are installing it so that it looks like you did it on purpose. This is a great way to add more of the high-end stone to a space that already has high-end stone. But please do not add gray in with peach. They just don't like each other. Flooring snobs, like myself can see it right away. We KNOW when something has been done piece meal. We also know when someone did the piece meal NICELY vs. someone who did it without a thought to the overall look of the floor. Compliment the stone you are keeping. Let your area rugs turn the space gray. That trend is quickly dying. It makes sense to throw out a rug in 3 years. It doesn't make sense to rip out a tile floor in 3 years.

Or do you think there could be another better option? - The first option requires you to walk around the table. - The second option creates a long dark hallway, which will be unpleasant and diifficult to maneuver with large furniture. If forced to choose between these two, I'd go with the second one ... but move the suite's door to where you currently have a cased opening. Then adjust the bathroom and the closet so they open into the hallway; this means you won't have light spill coming from the bathroom into the bedroom, and you won't have one spouse waking the other going into the bathroom at night. Finally, I'd open two doors into the laundry ... one into the master suite hallway /one into the mudroom. Oh, the real final comment on this set-up: I'd add an exterior door for furniture movement and fire safety; the master is far from any exterior door. But this is kinda lipstick on a pig. I appreciate if you can point some of the inefficiencies - You've created a square house, which is a highly efficient choice -- but it's only efficient for a small house ... like a four-square. When you force in lots of rooms, efficiency flies out the window. You either need to add a second floor /move the secondary bedrooms upstairs OR go with a rectangle or an "L". - In this case, you've pushed the bedrooms (where you'll be asleep) to the exterior, and you've given them all the natural light -- and you've squeezed your public spaces, where you'll spend your waking hours, in to the middle, where they will be dark and uninviting. The dining room is the worst, but the other rooms aren't great in terms of lighting. - The master and Bedrooms 1 and 3 can /should have windows on two walls. - You've allowed this attempt at a square house to push your dimensions to uncomfortable proportions. For example, your family room will be narrow, and your mudroom is the width of an average hallway -- not wide enough to include a closet or other needs, barely enough room for coat hooks. - Your dining room is too far from the kitchen for convenience. When a dining room requires too many steps to put a meal on the table /clean up afterward, that dining room never gets used. - Note that you'll have to walk around the dining room table each time you enter the house from the garage. - You've designed a dining room, a breakfast nook, and an island wide enough for seating -- and probably outdoor seating as well. How many dining areas do you need? - The pantry is too far from the kitchen and badly proportioned. - The bathrooms are all a mess -- poorly proportioned, no concept of grouping water walls together for economy /function. For example, in the bathroom your guests will use, a person sitting on the toilet will have a lovely view of himself or herself in the bathroom vanity mirror. You've duplicated sinks in places where that means no drawer storage -- and drawer storage at the sink is important. You've put the master toilet into a 4'11" closet -- you'll be knocking your knees against the wall. - The closets seem to be after-thoughts /do not reflect the sizes of real clothes. - You have no coat closet. Even if you live in a warm climate, you need a spot to store out-of-season coats. The kids' closets don't seem to be large enough to absorb coats. - Several door swings impede other door swings. At least one door swing is backwards. - Laundry rooms are best on an exterior wall, where the dryer can vent directly to the outside. This is cheaper to build and more fire-safe. A good laundry room requires space for storage and "waiting loads". - What works best for most people is one large living area where everyone can gather -- plus a second living area that can be closed off for visual and acoustical privacy. You have two living spaces, which are open to one another -- so a group watching a football game will have to hear the middle schooler practicing his trumpet in the other room (and vice-versa). - I'd like to see a linen closet and a broom closet. If you don't plan for these spaces, your stuff will end up cluttering other areas of your house. - I'd like to see a bay window in the breakfast nook. - Do you have a door into the back yard? Will furniture placement prevent accessing this door? To be fair, positives: - Good sight light upon entering the house. - Covered spot for your guests to wait while you answer the door. - That's all I can see. Your design would be the type you might find in a tight suburban planned community. It is also what is described as a "fat" house, because it is 4-5 rooms deep and 4 rooms wide, so that the interior of the house will be far from any windows and get no meaningful natural light. Yes, this is a major problem. I don’t think coming out of yiur bedroom past the laundry and mudroom is any worse than coming out into the kitchen, either way it’s like the servant’s quarters location. This doesn't bother me in the last /doesn't feel like servant's quarters.

First off, you are all amazing. Thank you for the reassurance that the DIY nature of the design didn't result in a total screw up. I will admit that I do believe I maybe messed up (a little) when I assumed our tile looked like Carrera marble (to my untrained eye) and assuming that white and gray marble was white and gray marble (silly me). So, I know that pictures don't always tell the picture and its difficult to get contrast, hue and color temperature right in a picture (I am a semi-pro photographer). So, I really appreciate all of you really digging into the pictures as best as possible to make your suggestions. Your comments were all so on point and I just want to say I appreciate you all lending your advice to help us! To touch on a few points: 1. The can lights in there have selectable color temperature and I have them currently set at 3500K. I briefly had them at 4000K but felt perhaps that was a little too cool and sterile....its a fine line that's tough for me because I don't like overly warm light in a bathroom (unlike in a family room). 2. The yellow/green tones are definitely in the tile. This is where I said I kinda screwed up...the tile is porcelein emulating statuario tile. The "white" is a warm off white. The "gray" has some brown/green/gray tonality to it. The accent stripe contains what I believe to be carrera marble and it is slightly cooler with more a standard white/gray tonality. Separating the tile from the accent tile is marble pencil that varies from gray tones to warmer browns in some areas. I posted this picture after discussing those colors I originally posted with my wife and I thought they were going to be winners so I was really disappointed when she felt they were off. I couldn't quite figure out why the bathroom tile was feeling suddenly so warm to my eye compared to earlier when the tile was only on the floor. I have included a picture earlier in the project where only the floors were going in and, to me, the floors seemed what I expected...with carrera white and gray. So, long story short after diving into Beth's original comments I came to realize what my eye was doing. Early on in the project my eye was comparing the tile against the grey/black of the waterproofing substrate. This contrast made the tile feel brighter and less "off-white". Once the tiles went up the wall my eye compared it to the mostly primer-white of the walls and suddenly the tile became darker and yellow/green. So, K L and Diana Bier hit the nail on the head with hitting up the darker tones. Knowing this, I took the tile and accent tile to BM and spent tons of time exploring darker tones. K L had touched on green and that is actually what worked color wise. Blues were too cool and didn't agree with the tile (even though it worked with the accent tile). Solid greens were too warm and didn't agree with the accent tile but looked good with the wall/floor tile. Blue-greens worked well with both. We came back home with Templeton Gray and, in addition, I had pulled grays of similar tonality compared to Cinder (like Diana mentioned) and brought home Storm. Both look excellent at least on a swatch level. However as of right now my wife was super excited about Storm. So right now that is the plan but after re-reading all your suggestions, I think Stoneybrook is also interesting and may take another look at the tile with that....it may be slightly too warm. I think why this was so hard for me is, being no interior designers, we usually have fairly dark wood/furniture in our home. So naturally we gravitate towards lighter tones. My general rule to date has been find the color you like and go two swatches up on the card to find the color you should actually paint (I realize the flaw in that regarding that the colors are not necessarily just lighter versions of themselves but you get the idea. I just think that philophy didn't work in this bathroom where the tile is a dominant feature and is light in and of itself. By painting the walls white it actually made the tile feel darker which wasn't my goal. Beth, Your comments regarding accessories is excellent. This has really gotten me thinking as I haven't done much on the accessory front besides mirrors. I am definitely taking your advice to heart and will try to bring in some natural tones that will "soften" the space and diversify the color palette. I've also included a picture of my rendering I did of the bathroom in the design phase. The rendering is just my own CAD drawing so forgive the roughness of some features (like the lack of hardware). Just wanted you all to have a better idea of the finished space. The toilet area is blocked in the picture by the entryway door. This entryway door is changing to a barn door to remove this obstacle in the flow of the bathroom.