I attempted to post some pictures of my under cabinet lighting and outlets. Please excuse the mess. Also, my kitchen is by no means finished. The faucet that you will see is not the one that is eventually going to be there, and the countertop is going to change as well. Also, some of the cover plates for the electrical outlets are not attached. The first pictures are for cabinets (upper glass display cabinet stacked on top of a smaller wall cabinet) that are located above the main sink. When it is finished, the bottom shelf should be even with the face frame for the lower cabinet, likewise for the upper cabinet. One of the pictures shows the wiring that will be covered up. The switch for the under cabinet lighting that is in the bottom of that upper cabinet is located in the bottom of the lower cabinet on the left hand side. The pendant lights on either side of the sink are controlled by a switch located on the right hand side of that same bottom cabinet. The valance on the bottom of the lower cabinet hides the switches, and the valance on the bottom of the upper cabinet reduces the glare from under cabinet lighting. The wall cabinets that have the electrical boxes along with the under cabinet lighting built into the bottom of the wall cabinet are shown in the last set of pictures. The last picture shows the interior of that wall cabinet with the raised bottom shelf. It does not have to be like that. The box is not that tall, but the bottom shelf was already made and this is what it currently looks like. So there is some wasted space there, but it can modified later. Also, a valance, similar to the one around the sink cabinet, is planned for this wall cabinet as well. The bottom of this cabinet can be seen in the next to the last picture. I don't have a need for more than two outlets on either side of my range; so, I did not need a strip of electrical outlets. Hope this was of some help. Here is a link that might be useful: under cabinet lighting and outlets

kitchen - close to this with edits to island. island is all 1 level not tiered.

It's not at all uncommon to have the T-stat above the light switches. If you haven't, consider combining the shower light and fan into one single switch with an integral timer. Turn the switch ON and the shower light and fan turn on together. Turn the switch OFF and the shower light turns off but the fan runs for a predetermined time set by you. The timer settings are on the switch body. When the timer is satisfied, the fan turns off automatically. I'm not a big fan of combining duplex outlets and light switches in the same junction box, but I do understand that it sometimes offers the best layout based upon the layout of the room. My opinion.

@Buehl Thanks for your thoughts . We had this property insepcted and the inspector made no comment about the placement of this sub-panel. Only when I brought this issue up on Houzz, did I think anything about the electrical panel. The plan was to simply keep everything in the same place but update the flooring and cabinets. Now, I am in a quandry because of the electrical panel. The reason I asked about permitting requirements for moving the panel was due to a comment made by one electrician about it not being necessary for what he viewed small adjustment . I did not believe it, but I thought I should ask. Others don't appear to have a problem with keeping inside a large 50" blind corner pantry space. One referred to it as a utility room closet. We will look at the sofit to see if can be removed or minimized. Since the sofit is used for stove venting, one possibility is to simply remove and replace with re-circulating microwave . Finally, to answer your question about the floor plan of the townhouse, it is 16 feet wide and probably 30 feet long . The dining room is across from the kitchen and it opens up into living room. I have attached an example of a similar floor plan so you can understand the layout. Thanks for your thoughts and comments.