Here's the deal... If you are a Homeowner - you will find that the saw chains they sell in the box stores are pretty much trash. I ran through nearly this exact situation with my Electric 18" poulan chainsaw.... The "Factory" chain was about as hard as a tin can... It made it through 2 cuts through green Pear wood - and by the end of the 2nd cut - the chain was laboring and overheating.... The teeth were rounded off by the end of that 2nd cut! Went to the local Pro Chainsaw shop... and after they got done laughing at my "Tonka Saw" and "Hey, is that your Kid's Saw" and such - they sorted it out for me.... The bar was out of square and the chain was trash. They were able to square up the bar, and then put a new Bona-fide Professional cutting chain on it.... It was like NIGHT and DAY! It's a beast now... I took out about 20 trees out of the yard... Last summer - I cut up a blow down 24" diameter twin trunk Red Oak tree... Went through 3 bottles of bar oil and got to know my chain file pretty well - but it's still kicking after 5 more Oaks and Hickory trees this spring... The guys at the chain saw shop explained that it's pretty common with "Box store" chain saws - that there is already a giant amount of liability with a chain saw... and the factory has to assume every buyer is a drooling idiot... so they put on a soft, mushy chain that bends and rolls over when it hits concrete or steel rather than breaking and chipping... so they are extra soft... Of course, the Box Store will sell you an exact replacement.. but they are made to the same mushy specs because of Liability.... Of course - the Chain Saw shop guys sell mostly to Loggers and such... and they don't fool around with trash chains - so they keep real life Cutting chains in stock... and they do cut like they are supposed to. So.. If you put on a "Non-spec" chain on your saw... against the stern recommendations of the Manufacturer - you basically give up your recourse if you try to cut a railroad track or cement blocks and the saw chain breaks on you... But.. if you actually want to use your "Homeowner" chainsaw - you really have no other choice... Don't laugh - it starts up every time! Oh.. and it was an Oregon cutting chain... but I have no doubt that a proper Husky or Stihl cutting chain sold by a proper Chainsaw shop would do the deed.... Thanks

Your saw might fetch $150.00 in good condition here, I don't know what prices are like in your area. The 450, 270 and 280 are not pro quality saws, they are designed for the occasional user/weekend warrior. What length bar do you want? The MS 260 would be a good choice but is limited to 20" and .325 chain. 3/8 can go on with an Oregon bar but the saw doesn't have the cajones to pull it. What about a Husky 359, a lot lighter than your current one but uses the same 3/8 chain. Good all around saw.

I have found dirty pumps and filters to be my problems. Dirty due to sawdust getting into the bar oil tank while filling before cleaning or being careful. The PoulanÂs foam filters were easy to clean with the use of my Poulan manual. I could see the foam deteriorating if the saw is old enough. The saws with manual pumps and auto seems to work better because you can force oil through and prime the bar (when the pump is good and the filter is not too dirty). Some people will simply use a squirt can to add oil as needed or at least before good dia cut vs a bill on an old saw. One Logger told me he adds oils as if the oilier is not working period. Remember, some Craftsman are Poulan saws. Craftsman is only a brand vs a builder of a product. logger

Sounds like a shill for this company. Do you work for them? Do you have a financial interest in this organization?